NEWHANFU

In the recently aired historical drama Flourished Peony (国色芳华), eagle-eyed viewers noticed something peculiar about Dong Jie’s (董洁) character, Feng Xiaoyi (冯小姨): she wore a curious piece of fabric draped across her chest, resembling what modern audiences might jokingly call a “butt curtain.” This accessory, however, is far from a mere costume quirk—it’s a revival of the Wei Shang (围裳), a centuries-old fashion staple from the Tang Dynasty (618–907 CE). What Is a Wei Shang? The Wei Shang, often referred to as a “waist skirt” or yao qun (腰裙), is a versatile garment that wraps around the waist or hips. Historically, it served both decorative and functional purposes. According to The Dictionary of Ancient Chinese Clothing, the Wei Shang was a short skirt worn around the waist, while scholars like Ruan Li (阮立) from Shanghai University describe it as a wide band tied at the hips, often secured with decorative knots or beads. In simpler terms, the Wei Shang is a layered piece of fabric that adds depth and structure to an outfit. Its design can range from a single piece of cloth to multiple panels stitched together, often pleated or embroidered for added flair. From Waist to Chest: A…...

In the bustling streets of modern cities, striped skirts have become a staple of contemporary wardrobes. But what if we told you this trend was mastered—and arguably perfected—over 1,500 years ago in China? Recent archaeological discoveries and historical dramas like Kill My Sins (掌心) have reignited fascination with ancient Chinese striped skirts, revealing a sophisticated fashion legacy that continues to inspire today. The Striped Skirt Revolution: A 7th-Century Innovation Contrary to popular belief, striped skirts were not born on Parisian runways or New York streets. The earliest examples emerged during China’s Han Dynasty (206 BCE–220 CE) and evolved into a cultural phenomenon by the Tang Dynasty (618–907 CE). These were no ordinary garments: Engineering Elegance: Unlike modern printed fabrics, Tang-era striped skirts (poqun, 破裙) were painstakingly assembled from narrow, hand-dyed fabric strips—sometimes as many as 90 panels stitched together. Optical Illusions: Ancient tailors strategically used vertical stripes and color contrasts (like black-white or red-blue) to create slimming silhouettes, predating modern "bodycon" aesthetics by over a millennium. Functional Fashion: Excavated artifacts from tombs like Bi Jiatan Huahai (毕家滩花海墓) reveal skirts with pleats and adjustable waistbands, blending artistry with practicality. How Tang Women Wore Stripes The Tang Dynasty’s striped skirt craze reached…...

During the CCTV Spring Festival special Golden Snake Dance: The Flavor of Chinese New Year (金蛇起舞•中国年味), actress Wang Churan (王楚然) made a stunning appearance in traditional Hanfu attire. However, it wasn’t her flowing robes that caught the audience’s attention—it was her hairstyle. Two neatly trimmed strands of hair framing her face led some viewers to question: Was this a nod to Japanese hime cut (公主切), or a genuine representation of ancient Chinese fashion? The Truth Behind the Hairstyle The hairstyle in question, known as chuishao ji (垂髾髻), dates back to the Han (206 BCE–220 CE) and Jin (266–420 CE) dynasties. Historical artworks like Admonitions of the Instructress to the Court Ladies (女史箴图) and The Wise and Benevolent Women (列女仁智图) depict women with high buns adorned with strands of hair neatly trimmed at the temples. This style, often enhanced with hairpieces, was a hallmark of aristocratic fashion during the Eastern Han Dynasty. The chuishao ji wasn’t just a random choice—it was a deliberate aesthetic statement. The trimmed strands, known as fenshao (分髾), were meant to frame the face elegantly, creating a balance between structure and softness. Archaeological findings, such as jade carvings from the Warring States period (475–221 BCE) and murals…...

In the world of historical Chinese dramas, costumes are more than just clothing—they are a window into the past. Recently, eagle-eyed fans of actress Liu Shishi (刘诗诗) noticed something intriguing about her wardrobe in her latest period drama: a garment that looks strikingly similar to a modern-day T-shirt. This piece, known as the tanling banbi (坦领半臂), is not a contemporary addition but a fascinating example of Tang Dynasty (618–907 AD) fashion that has stood the test of time. What Is a Tanling Banbi? The tanling banbi is a traditional Chinese garment that combines a wide neckline (tanling) with short sleeves (banbi). The tanling neckline, often compared to a modern scoop or boat neck, is characterized by its deep, open cut, sometimes extending to the chest. This design, which dates back to the Tang Dynasty, was particularly popular among women for its comfort and elegance. The banbi sleeves, which end at the elbow or higher, make the garment practical for daily wear, especially in warmer weather. What sets the tanling banbi apart from modern T-shirts is its construction. Unlike a T-shirt, which is typically pulled over the head, the tanling banbi features a front opening secured by buttons or ties. This…...

As spring breathes life into nature, fashion enthusiasts seek fresh ways to mirror the season’s vibrancy. While pastels and florals dominate Western spring collections, a centuries-old Chinese tradition offers an audacious alternative: Hanfu, the traditional attire of the Han Chinese. With its fearless embrace of color, Hanfu challenges modern fashion’s rigid rules—proving that spring’s exuberance can be captured not through restraint, but through joyful abundance. Part 1: Hanfu’s Chromatic Rebellion In recent years, my journey into Hanfu evolved from buying curated sets to DIY creations. What stunned me most was its radical approach to color. Combinations deemed “clashing” in modern fashion—think pink paired with chartreuse or deep green against magenta—somehow harmonize effortlessly in Hanfu. Even seemingly discordant hues like lavender and tangerine or sky blue and neon orange coalesce into striking ensembles. These designs defy the “three-color rule” (a Western styling mantra) not through chaos but through calculated artistry. The secret lies in Hanfu’s structural DNA: loose, planar cuts allow hues to flow freely across uninterrupted fabric planes, while layered skirts and billowing sleeves create a kinetic harmony that feels both ancient and avant-garde. Part 2: Why Modern Fashion Fears Color—And Hanfu Doesn’t The “three-color rule” exists for practicality: modern…...

Why should hanfu makers turn to thrift stores? For the deals, of course!...

Foot binding (simplified Chinese: 缠足; traditional Chinese: 纏足) was the Chinese custom of breaking and tightly binding the feet of young girls to change their shape and size for aesthetic purposes. Feet altered by footbinding were known as lotus feet and the shoes made for them were known as lotus shoes. It has been estimated that by the 19th century 40–50% of all Chinese women may have had bound feet, rising to almost 100% among upper-class Han Chinese women. The lotus flower, a symbolically significant flower across Eastern countries and religions, is associated with beauty, enlightenment and rebirth. Every morning the lotus flower emerges elegant and pure from muddy waters. In Buddhism, the white lotus flower is symbolic of Bodhi, or, being awakened. Thus the lotus is also a symbol of desire and fertility.                                  History: Footbinding was an extremely painful and debilitating cultural practice, existing in China from the 10th century until the establishment of the People’s Republic of China in 1949. First practice was documented in the Southern T'ang Dynasty (937-956 AD), although some poetry from the Han Dynasty (206 BC-AD 220) suggests that small feet were culturally preferred before documentation of the custom. The exact origin of…...

Fashion is a reflection of history, culture, and identity, evolving alongside society. Chinese fashion, in particular, has undergone a remarkable transformation, shifting from traditional attire to modern, globally influenced styles. This evolution is deeply connected to social changes, economic growth, and cultural exchanges with the world. Understanding how Chinese fashion has changed over time provides valuable insights for students interested in history, art, and design. For centuries, China’s clothing styles were shaped by dynastic rules, Confucian values, and regional influences. The Hanfu, Tang suit, and Qipao symbolize different eras, each with unique materials, patterns, and meanings. These garments carried social significance, often indicating class, status, and occupation. However, as China opened its doors to modernization and globalization, traditional clothing slowly gave way to contemporary designs influenced by Western trends. Today, fashion in China blends tradition with innovation, creating styles that appeal to both young students and professionals. The rise of street fashion, sustainable clothing, and high-end Chinese designers has positioned China as a fashion powerhouse. Many students now explore this transformation in college, studying fashion history, design, and business as part of their assignments. This shift not only reflects aesthetic changes but also highlights the deeper impact of culture on…...

Set against the backdrop of the Ming Dynasty, Under the Moonlight (锦囊妙录) is poised to be the next big hit in the realm of historical mystery dramas. Slated for a prime-time premiere on CCTV-8 starting January 14, with exclusive streaming on Youku, this series promises to deliver a captivating mix of suspense, romance, and cultural richness. With its intricate storytelling, visually stunning aesthetics, and deep dive into Ming Dynasty folklore, the show is set to captivate audiences across North America, Southeast Asia, and the broader English-speaking world. A Tale of Intrigue and Romance At the heart of Under the Moonlight lies the compelling partnership between Luo Shu (罗疏), a determined woman fighting against her tragic fate, and Qi Menglin (齐梦麟), a free-spirited young man eager to carve his own path in the world. Together, they form an unlikely detective duo, navigating a series of baffling cases that test their wits and resolve. Each case they tackle reveals not only the complexities of human nature but also the societal injustices of the era, particularly those faced by women. As they unravel one mystery after another, their bond deepens, blending professional camaraderie with budding romance. However, their journey is far from straightforward.…...

Chinese actress Yang Zi (杨紫), known for her versatile roles in television dramas, has once again captured the public’s attention—this time, not for her acting, but for her impeccable fashion sense. Recently, the star shared photos of herself dressed in Hanfu, traditional Chinese clothing, to celebrate the Lantern Festival. The images, which quickly went viral, showcased Yang Zi in two stunning Ming Dynasty-inspired outfits, sparking discussions about the modern revival of Hanfu and its place in everyday fashion. A Nod to Ming Dynasty Elegance Yang Zi’s Hanfu choices are rooted in the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644), a period known for its rich cultural heritage and distinctive fashion. The two outfits she wore are variations of aoqun (袄裙), a traditional style consisting of a top (ao) and a skirt (qun). The first ensemble features a soft pink ao with a crossed collar, paired with a gray pleated skirt. The second look is a refreshing green ao with a front-opening design, layered over a subtle red undergarment, creating a harmonious yet striking color contrast. What makes Yang Zi’s outfits stand out is their accessibility. Unlike the elaborate Hanfu often seen in historical dramas, her choices are tailored for modern wear. The muted tones—pink,…...