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The History and Origin of the Feiyufu & Jinyiwei
Feiyufu (飞鱼服) first became known to the public because of the "New Dragon Gate Inn (新龙门客栈)", "Flying Swords of Dragon Gate (龙门飞甲)", "Brotherhood of Blades (绣春刀)" and other martial arts film works about the Jin Yi Wei (锦衣卫, Embroidered Uniform Guard) appeared one after another. The look of a handsome black leather Feiyufu of the Jin Yi Wei undoubtedly attracted the attention of many people. As Feiyufu became more and more famous, it almost became the representative of the Ming Dynasty official uniform in the general public's mind. So what exactly is Feiyufu and did every Jin Yi Wei in history get to wear it? In this article, we will introduce the history of Feiyufu and the origin of Jin Yi Wei, hope it will be helpful to you. What is a Feiyufu? The name Feiyufu does not refer to a specific style of hanfu, but all hanfu decorated with Feiyu embroidery or Feiyu Buzi (补子, Mandarin square) are called Feiyufu, which only limits the style of the pattern, not the style of the clothing. In the Ming Dynasty, the Buzi on the Changfu (常服, work formal wear) of the officials were patterned with birds and animals. In the… -
Hidden Chinese Culture in Kung Fu Panda Movies
Have you ever heard of that trivia tidbit where it's like "the Chinese were so impressed by Kung Fu Panda that they held meetings to figure out why they couldn't produce something as good as it with their own culture"? Well, it's true. That did happen. And the answer is probably a combination of a lack of financial and cultural support for artists, government censorship of storytelling, and animation not being taken seriously as an artform. But what did Kung Fu Panda do that was so right? What influences did it take from Chinese culture? I'm gonna try and figure that out. I'll talk about my opinion on whether it matters that this movie was made by white people when Chinese audiences liked it so much. So let's start! Wuxia Jianghu Dream To begin with, these mountains in the opening immediately reminded me of Huangshan, or the Yellow Mountains. It's a pretty famous mountain range in China with a lot of these jagged stony peaks and clouds surrounding them. The Kung Fu Panda artbook confirms that the Valley of Peace is inspired by the Yellow Mountains and the Li River Valley, another place famous for being really, really pretty. And… -
A Brief History of Ancient Chinese Umbrellas
Umbrellas are very common in daily life. Whether it's a hot sun or a downpour, an umbrella is definitely your best assistant. Not only that, in the modern hanfu shooting, the appearance rate of the ancient style oil-paper umbrella is extremely high. The demand for shade from the sun and rain has been there since ancient times, take a look, the the history of ancient Chinese umbrellas, to see what kind of umbrellas the ancients used. Pre-Qin Period The early Chinese umbrellas were called "Gai (盖)" or "Deng (簦)", made of grass, pieces of bamboo, etc., with a handle to hold, much like the current umbrella, but it could not be put away. Chinese umbrellas made of silk first appeared in the Western Zhou period, silk umbrellas are expensive, generally used by the nobility, are mainly decorative items and symbols of power for the dignitaries, noblemen, and the scholar. The common people could not afford to buy silk umbrellas, so they mostly used Douli (斗笠), or Suoyi (蓑衣, straw raincoats) in their lives. Suoyi has an important feature and symbol of ancient Chinese costume: Shang Yi Xia Chang. The top is called "Suoyi Pi (蓑衣披)", which is draped over… -
Hanfu Making(8) - Shuhe Cutting & Sewing Patterns
This section contains Shuhe (裋褐). Size range: 165/88A to 185/104A). Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance. Introduction Shuhe (裋褐), also known as "Duan Da (短打)", originally meant a coarse cloth upper garment woven with coarse hemp or animal hair, was a simple cross-collar upper garment worn by commoners in ancient China, usually with looser pants underneath, mostly used for casual wear or work clothes. The basic features of the Shuhe are Jiao Ling You Ren (交领右衽, cross collar and wrapping the right side before the left), the shortest sleeve length over the wrist, the longest slightly beyond the fingertips, mostly straight sleeves or arrow sleeves, narrower cuffs, the length of the garment to below the waist, the longest above the knee, and the two sides need to be divided into slits. Shuhe can not simply be equated with the cloth worn by the poor, although this garment can not do the formal occasions worn by the dress, but its use is very wide, and the use of Shuhe is determined by its characteristics, because wearing Shuhe more convenient for action, so it has become a daily work, farming, long-distance travel necessary… -
Hanfu Making(7) - Banbi Cutting & Sewing Patterns
This section contains Banbi (半臂). Size range: Jiao Ling Banbi (155/80A to 185/104A), Zhi Dui Jin Banbi and Xie Dui Jin Banbi (155/64A to 175/96A). Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance. Introduction Banbi (半臂), also known as "half-sleeve", is a short tunic developed from the upper Ru (襦) since the Wei and Jin Dynasties, and can be roughly divided into two collar types: Jiao Ling (交领, cross-collar) and Dui Jin (对襟, lapel). Compared with long-sleeved tops, the difference is that the sleeve length can reach the elbow. In the Tang Dynasty, the Banbi was already a popular garment worn by both men and women. In the long years, its wearing method is also basically limited to the set of other long-sleeved clothes, because in formal occasions, the ancient people will never wear Banbi alone and show the arm. But with modern aesthetics, today's Jiao Ling Banbi (交领半臂) can be worn alone in summer, which is somewhat similar to the short-sleeved T-shirts worn by modern people, and because of its shorter sleeve length, it does not hurt to pair it with a modern skirt, and men can also wear a Banbi with… -
7 Sets of Summer Hanfu to Make You Unique
Summer is here, want to keep cool all summer long? The "cool" summer hanfu is here to save you. You can refer to these hanfu and inspired hanfu styles that will make you stand out and still keep you fresh. The first set is a light green Song style hanfu, as if it is a summer lake, clear and cool. The Song Chang Shan (长衫), the placket with jade Ruyi and flower embroidery, pleated skirt head embroidery exquisite full. Jade Ruyi and floral prints embellish the whole hanfu, as if the flowers fell on the lake and caused ripples. The chilled sparkling water, refreshing summer taste. Plain elegant quiet blue and white wear, simple white Duijin Shan (对襟衫), showing the thin effect is very good. Sweet little daisy in the improved Qixiong dress, dress-type design, lining the slender figure. That beautiful girl, smile charming and unforgettable. The third set is a black and purple gradient Ming-style He Ling Dui Jin Shan (合领对襟衫), printed with star, cherry blossom, and wisteria print, adding a sense of mystery. With a light purple short pleated skirt, it is suitable for daily wear and does not require a high figure. Soft skin-friendly… -
Silk Culture in Ancient China
Sericulture and the spinning and weaving of silk originated in China thousands of years ago. Because of its rich colors and patterns, silk played an important role in ancient solemnities and ceremonies and also gave rise to a rich folkloric tradition. The History of Silk As archaeological findings show, China was the first country to develop sericulture and silk spinning and weaving. In 1977, at Hemudu (河姆渡), a 7,000-year-old archaeological site in the city of Yuyao (余姚) in Zhejiang Province (浙江), a silkworm-shaped carving was found that represents a testament to the early engagement of China's ancient people in sericulture-related activities. Among the inscriptions on bones and turtle shells discovered in the ruins of Yin (殷墟), capital of Shang dynasty (商, ca. 1600-1046 BC), there are numerous references to silkworms, the Morus alba or mulberry tree and silk. This reinforces the thesis that silkworm rearing and silk weaving were already an important part of the lives of the people of that time. Until reaching the years of the Warring Kingdoms (战国时代, 475-221 B.C.) the development in China of the now well-known Jacquard comotelar, the various silk fabrics, a fine and resistant silk, silk gauzes, brocade, silk twill, damask and… -
[Interview] What Is It Like to Become a Hanfu Designer
What is it like to be a hanfu designer? Let's take a look at Hanfu Shi Dai (汉服世代) interviews with four hanfu designers. Kong Xin Yan (空心砚) Hello, I'm Kong Xin Yan and I've been in touch with hanfu for more than 10 years! Over the years I have been concerned about the demand for modern hanfu and saw the potential market demand for non-antique hanfu, but there are many inconveniences in wearing traditional hanfu directly, which triggered my design inspiration and also formed my own design feature - "Shi Zhuang Han Cai (时装汉裁, tailoring fashion in Han style)". Traditional hanfu leaps directly from ancient times into modern times, missing the process of cultural renewal, and many styles are based on the ancient social background. If we want to further develop hanfu, we have to think about these questions: How should traditional hanfu serve the current fast-paced society and what functions should it achieve in an era when there are noblemen like emperors, generals and princesses? "Shi Zhuang Han Cai" is my answer to these questions after thinking and practicing. In fact, my family has been reluctant to wear hanfu for more than ten years, but they are happy… -
6 Latest Modern Hanfu Look You Need to Know
When talking about celebrity in the modern Hanfu, Shiyin will surely come to mind. She not only has been dedicated to the promotion of traditional and modern Hanfu, but also often shares the traditional Chinese culture with everyone. Shiyin shares six different styles of modern Hanfu look in her latest video, let's take a look. https://youtu.be/WaQ2zAZ1aGk LOOK 1 - Street Cool Girl Style For the first set, Shiyin chose a Ming-style Duijin Duan Shan (lapel short shirts) with a very special color clashing design, which is perfect for a cool street style look even though it is a men's style. Shiyin chose to turn down the collar, one of the corners of the shirt tucked into the bottom, and the sleeves on both sides can be rolled up. Then, she paired it with denim shorts in the same color and a leather necklace. LOOK 2 - Fresh style The second Hanfu item is a women's semi-transparent Ming-style Li Ling Duijin Duan Shan (standing collar lapel short shirts) with a very fresh design. Wearing a camisole inside, unbuttoning the shirt, turning the collar out, and tying a knot in front of the waist. The bottom with light-colored denim shorts… -
Ancient Chinese Hanfu Illustrated Book
Chinese Hanfu has a long history and has gone through several dynasties over thousands of years of development, during which time it has evolved and many representative Hanfu styles have emerged, learn more about them together through the exquisite illustrations from Jin Li Qing Nian. Pre Qin Period China, one of the oldest civilizations in the world, has created a gorgeous dress culture as early as the Neolithic period. During the Spring, Autumn, and Warring States Periods, Chinese traditional clothing entered a stage of evolution Li (礼, ritual) was the rule, costume consciousness and the same structure as heaven and earth contain a profound Chinese philosophy. The complete He Dang Ku (合裆裤) already existed in the Western Zhou period. At this time, the main styles of clothing were the Mian Fu Zhi (冕服制) with the upper and lower garments, the one-piece Shen Yi Zhi (深衣制), and the Bian Fu Zhi (弁服制). The aristocratic ladies would also cut the back of their long dresses short, to reveal a floor-length skirt, creates a graceful and slender look. San Huang Zhu Yu Pei (三璜组玉佩) Jade pendant group, also known as a iscellaneous jade pendant, that is a combination of multiple different types… -
Exquisite Restored Hanfu from the Ancient Painting
Ancient paintings are one of the most important ways to explore the ancient traditional Hanfu, and the Hanfu styles in some classic famous paintings are even more popular among Hanfu enthusiasts. The charm of the Wei and Jin dynasties, the gracefulness of the Tang Dynasty, the elegance of the Song Dynasty, just flow into reality from ancient paintings. Today, take a look at those restored Hanfu costumes from ancient paintings! Court Ladies Preparing Newly Woven Silk Court Ladies Preparing Newly Woven Silk (Dao Lian Tu, 捣练圖) shows women at work pounding, weaving, ironing and sewing, and is an important custom painting of the Tang Dynasty. The women in the painting are voluptuous and dressed in various colors of Qixiong dresses, if looking closely, you can see that the fabric is decorated with colorful patterns, mainly with Tuan Hua (团花). At present, there are some restored Court Ladies Preparing Newly Woven Silk hanfu, which can be said to be very nicely restored in color and pattern, fresh, natural and antique style. A Palace Concert A Palace Concert (Tang Ren Gong Le Tu, 唐人宫乐图) depicts the life of court lady at a banquet during the late Tang Dynasty. Around the… -
The History of Traditional Chinese Pants
Traditional Chinese pants, as important clothing, have a long history in China. Han people generally wear trousers, not only from the Han Dynasty. On the contrary, the Han nationality is considered to be one of the first nations in the world to wear pants. Traditional Chinese pants can be divided into two types: one is called Kun(裈) and the other is called Ku(袴). Kun(裈) Kun is an ancient underpants with the crotch, according to the present archaeological evidence, Kun can be traced back to the late Neolithic. It can be divided into two types: one is very short and similar to the contemporary triangle underpants, which was called " Dubi Kun (犊鼻裈dú bí kūn)" in ancient times; "Dubi Kun" has a history of more than 5000 years and is still used in some parts of Contemporary Asia. the other is slightly wider and similar to the contemporary beach pants, which have two obvious pants with knee-length. Compared with the "Dubi Kun" to be more formal, so it has been widely used in the past dynasties, especially in hot areas. Usually, in ancient times, few people will directly expose Kun to the outside except for the farmers, servants or soldiers.… -
Guide of the Ming Dynasty Shan/Ao Types for Girls
The Ming Dynasty Hanfu has always been known by Hanfu lovers for its dignity and elegance. Compared to the Tang and Song dynasties, Ming Hanfu has a large number of excavated artifacts, heirloom paintings, and costumes to serve as references. Therefore, we can have access to a great variety of Hanfu styles from the Ming Dynasty. Common types of Ming style Shan/Ao The different Ming Dynasty Shan/Ao styles are mainly composed of the elements of collar, bodice, sleeve shape, and length of the clothing. Ling (领, collar): Zhi Ling (直领, straight collar), Yuan Ling (圆领, round collar), Li Ling (立领, stand collar, also known as Shu Ling), Fang Ling (方领, square collar). Jin (襟, bodice): Da Jin (大襟), Dui Jin (对襟), refers to the intersection of the neckline of the clothes, and also refers to the chest part of the clothes. Xiu (袖, sleeve type): Zhai Xiu (窄袖, narrow sleeves), Zhi Xiu (直袖, straight sleeves), Pipa Xiu (琵琶袖, pipa sleeves), Da Xiu (大袖, wide sleeves). Yi Chang (衣长, length of clothes): Chang Shan/Ao (long), Duan Shan/Ao (short). We will introduce several classic Ming Hanfu styles for girls, based on different collar styles. Zhi Ling Zhi Ling Da Jin… -
All You Want to Know About Hanfu & Tongpao Is Here
Originally published in China Youth Magazine, Issue 10, 2021 @Correspondent: Fan Tuan (饭团) In recent years, there is a phenomenon that people can easily notice: more and more people in "ancient costumes" walking in the streets, they have wide robes and large sleeves, fluttering clothes, forming a landscape of their own, and most of them are young people. Their clothing is called Hanfu (汉服), and they call each other "Tongpao (同袍)" "Paozi (袍子)". So, what is Hanfu? Why are young people so keen on the Hanfu revival? How can ordinary people become Hanfu Tongpao? In this article, we interviewed 10 Hanfu Tongpao. Among them, there are ordinary people, leaders of Hanfu societies, Hanfu models, businessmen, and social media celebrities. Let's get closer to Hanfu in the stories of Tongpao. Which Hanfu styles does Tongpao prefer? Hanfu, also known as Han Yi Guan, Han Zhuang, and Hua Fu, is a unique Han style and accessory system that was formed through a natural evolution from the reign of the Yellow Emperor to the middle of the 17th century AD (late Ming and early Qing dynasties) in the main areas where the Han people lived, with the "Huaxia-Han" culture as the background… -
8 Latest Summer Hanfu Dressing Inspiration for Female
It's a hot summer day and time to argue whether or not summer is a good time to wear hanfu. As always, the answer I give remains that summer is perfect for wearing hanfu. In this article, we have found some cool hanfu styles for you, I hope it will help you with your summer hanfu dressing inspiration! Beizi + Airplane sleeves + Pleated skirt Polka dot design and gradient color. Match the green of mint and the yellow of lemon together, and midsummer will become cool. Song-style airplane sleeves + Xuan skirt The color is fresher and also in line with the popular color of 2021. Ming-style short Shan + Pleated skirt The color is a vibrant summer model and the material is chiffon, which is not easily wrinkled. The pattern of the skirt is chosen to be checkered + summer plants, which is very suitable whether it is paired with hanfu of the same color, or with fashion. Polka dot pleated skirt This Polka dot pleated skirt is very fresh, deep, and shallow small Polka dots do not show monotonous, with a round neck short shirt is very cute and daily. Qixiong Shanqun… -
The Integration of Artifacts and Hanfu – [2]
History has annihilated all the past prosperity, and we can no longer witness the traditional dress aesthetics, but can only get a glimpse from the scrolls and terracotta figurines. But the search for Chinese traditional costume culture never stops, looking back at the lost costumes of the years, restoring them and recreating the glory of today. In the first issue, Modern Hanfu collated the styles that directly applied ancient paintings to Hanfu, while in the second issue, the restored Hanfu styles that will be presented to you are those that appear in ancient paintings and ceramic figurines. The Night Revels of Han Xizai "The Night Revels of Han Xizai" is a painting by Gu Hongzhong, a painter of the Southern Tang Dynasty during the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period. Depicting the scene of Han Xizai, an official, holding a night banquet at his home, with songs and music. There are five scenes in the scroll, and each scene is cleverly separated by a screen. This set of restored hanfu is based on the costume of the musician girl in "Han Xizai's Night Banquet", with a dark pattern on the top, a flower pattern on the skirt, and an… -
The Manufacturing Process of Hanfu
Hanfu has grown very popular today. In fact, the hanfu industry is now worth over 1 billion and has kept increasing over the years. Even today, it is still increasing. Many young and old people alike wear hanfu daily: in the streets, at school, casual wear, etc. The wearers also say that hanfu gives them a sense of national identity. However, how exactly are the intricate pieces made? There are several steps to it. First, silks and fabrics must be made. Second, embroidery and decorations must be done on the cloth. Then, tailors and hanfu makers buy the cloth and sew it. After much work, beautiful hanfu are made but let's get into detail... 01. Silk making 1. In Chinese mythology, silk is said to be invented by Lady Hsi Ling Shih, the wife of the yellow emperor who ruled from about 3000 BC. However, written references of silk was found at the Shang dynasty site in Anyang. Silk was first discovered and created in China. Real silk is very valuable and is one of the most expensive fabrics in the world. There are several types of silk but the most common type is silk made from the cocoons of… -
3 Special Ming Dynasty Ornaments You Never Knew About
During the Ming dynasty, the categories and styles of gold and silver ornaments had greater innovation and development based on the Song and Yuan dynasties, showing different visual aesthetic experiences and artistic styles. Among the various types of gold and silver in the Ming dynasty ornaments, "San Sher (三事儿, sān shèr, three things)" is a unique example. Unlike other ornaments, the "San Sher" are daily life tools, used for repairing and cleaning, and their main components include hooks, chains, connectors, pendants, etc. Some of them also have storage tubes, and the pendant objects are usually toothpicks, ear picks, and tweezers, which can be worn by both men and women. The "San Sher" is a common name in the Ming Dynasty, but in fact, the number of pendants can be increased or decreased, and the types are also different. The Ming Dynasty gold and silver "San Sher" are exquisite and unique, reflecting the high design aesthetic appeal, and also have a rich cultural connotation. Design aesthetics of Ming dynasty Ornaments - San Sher 01 Small and applicable: the form of pendant design The gold and silver "San Sher" of the Ming Dynasty pursued unity in form, and the pendant… -
The Essential Guide of Summer Hanfu [Materials & Match]
The hot summer season does not only represent dullness and bondage, but also softness, ease, breathability and silhouette opening. Besides the hanfu style, there is still a wide range of fabrics to choose from. Han Time's essential guide will start with fabrics and bring you hanfu style suitable for summer wear. Ramie | Ancient Cloth for Summer Hanfu The ramie is harvested three times a year, and at the time of the Grain in Ear (芒种), the farmers peel off the ramie skin from the pole, which is so coarse that it will break the hands if not careful. But it and Ge Man are the oldest fibers used as the raw material for making clothes. In Chinese, there is a character "Ji (绩)", which refers to the action of spinning hemp fibers into threads, and the process of making hemp threads is called "Ji Sha (绩纱)", which is mostly done by women and elderly people, and then sold to weaving workshops to be made into cloth before it is ready for clothing. Because ramie has a good gap, it has excellent breathability, and the solid color fabric reflects simplicity. If added with the printed and dyed flower color,… -
Hanfu Making(6) - Quju Cutting & Sewing Patterns
This section contains Quju (曲裾). Size range: 155/80A to 175/96A. Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance. Introduction The basic style of the Quju is the Jiao Ling You Ren, the back lapel is lengthened to form a triangle, which passes down the back and around to the front lapel, and then a Dadai (大带) is tied around the waist to cover the end of the triangle, with a pleated skirt underneath. The Quju was popular from the pre-Qin to Han dynasties, before the invention of the Ku (袴), and could be worn by both men and women, with the hemline of the men's Quju being wider and the hemline of some women's Quju taking on a unique "trumpet flower" style. Later, men's Quju gradually disappeared, and for a long time, Quju remained in the mainstream of women's clothing. However, in the Wei and Jin Dynasties, the Ruqun, which was easier to wear and more convenient for walking, became widely popular, while the Quju began to disappear, and in the long history that followed, the most popular women's clothing was the Ruqun style. Although the Quju disappeared early in history, it…