Wearing incense sachets in daily life, or burning the incense burner when reading or sipping tea, the pursuit of fragrance by the ancient Chinese surpassed even modern times. The combination of form and spirit is the ancients revered spiritual states. Clothing provided the form of the real state, while the flavor implied in the air gave the spirit part. The documentary "The Flavor of History" features a unique perspective that brings hanfu and flavor together again.   Tang Dynasty Ruilongnao (瑞龙脑) is produced in the country of Brahma (now Brunei). In addition to growing in hot places, it needs to be smoked to release its aroma. But its flavor is as cool and pure as its appearance, like a contradictory combination of noisy and silent, entwined and moving. In the clothing system of the Tang Dynasty, color was an important clue to distinguish the superior and inferior. According to the Book of Tang - Records of Yufu, the emperor's regular clothes are Chi Huang (赤黄, a color between yellow and red, #F8CE00) robes, Fu Tou (幞头), nine rings belt, and Liu He boots (六合靴)". At the time of Emperor Gaozu of the Tang Dynasty, it was officially stipulated that Chi Huang…

"Under the Microscope: The Tax Case of Silk" is arguably the most exciting historical costume cdrama of 2023 so far. Unlike most costume cdramas, "Under the Microscope" presents an exciting taxation curiosity case of the Ming Dynasty in only 14 episodes. The tight plot and accurate restoration of the Ming Dynasty make everyone start looking forward to the second season (there are six stories in the original, and the silk tax case is the first one). The drama is set in the Ming Dynasty time, showing Chinese aesthetics and authentic Ming Dynasty costumes. Shi Yue from Han Fu Shi Dai has compiled a list of the classic hanfu styles that appear in the drama, so let's learn about them.   Shuhe & Zhiduo Shuai Jia Mo, the main character in the drama, is a mathematical genius who relies on measuring land to earn a modest income. He was not enrolled in the civil service and was a commoner. Shuai Jia Mo often wears Shuhe and cloth shoes, highlighting his simple and unpretentious temperament. Shuhe (裋褐): also known as Heyi (褐衣), Buyi (布衣), refers to the rough cloth clothes worn by ordinary people. Feature with cross collar, narrow sleeves, usually shorter,…

Recently, Zhou Xun's Qipao (旗袍, cheongsam) dress look in the movie "Hidden Blade" brought this traditional costume back into the spotlight. If it is said that every era has representative clothing, then, the Republic of China women's closet must not be missing one cheongsam.   01 Fashionable clothing in the Republic of China period Qipao dress can be said to be the most representative clothing in the Republic of China. For social needs, the ladies also often update cheongsam style. Song Meiling often wore cheongsam, when she went to the United States to seek support for the war, especially when she spoke in the U.S. Congress, the image of a black satin cheongsam stunned the crowd, while boarding the major U.S. magazines. The popularity of the cheongsam owes much to the successful incorporation of practical Western elements without losing traditional Chinese features. Although designated as one of the Chinese dresses, the Qipao dress is actually a Western-style wear under a Chinese-style appearance. On the outside, the Qipao dress still adheres to the traditional Chinese elements such as silhouette, Pankou, and vertical collar, and the custom of "right overlapping" is also retained, which constitutes the unique aesthetic form of the Qipao…

Cheongsam, as one of the traditional Chinese dresses, can be seen as one of the tags of oriental women. It is like an ink-scented rice paper, which writes the history of Chinese dress, and like an inscription of the ancient time, even the folds of which contain the scent of ancient culture. It is not only a garment, but also a carrier of traditional Chinese culture. As one of the key elements of the composition of cheongsam, the collar shape has a very important influence on the style of cheongsam. Traditional cheongsam collar, often with a stand collar design, formed an elegant effect, with good effect in highlighting the lines of the female neck and body. The details of the cheongsam collar, show the workmanship, also the soul of the cheongsam. The right collar type can fit perfectly with the body, but also with the cheongsam as a whole, to the overall style of cheongsam into more exquisite aesthetic temperament, from the fundamental focus on temperament.   The origin of the cheongsam collar The relationship between modern cheongsam and Qing dynasty Manchu robe is still controversial, but it is undeniable that there is an inextricable relationship between cheongsam and Qi…

For centuries, the cheongsam has been a symbol of elegance, femininity, and Chinese culture. Also known as qipao, this form-fitting dress has been worn by women in China and beyond, captivating the world with its stunning beauty and timeless charm. While the cheongsam is now a fixture on fashion runways and red carpets around the world, its origins and evolution tell a captivating story of cultural exchange, fashion innovation, and societal change. From its early beginnings in the Qing Dynasty to its modern-day reinventions, the history of the cheongsam is one of the most fascinating and enduring tales of fashion history. In this article, Hibetterme explores the rich history of the cheongsam, the characteristics of modified cheongsam, and how to pick the right style of cheongsam for you.   The Evolution of cheongsam The origin of the cheongsam is actually quite controversial. Some scholars believe that it is the robe of the Qing Dynasty, and in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China, it gradually evolved into the current cheongsam due to social changes and the influence of Western culture. Some scholars also point out that the origin of cheongsam should be older than the Zhou, Qin,…

The rise of the hanfu market restored traditional festivals back to former hustle and bustle. Lighting lanterns, pasting couplets, wearing hanfu, and singing ancient poems, built a bridge between ancient and modern times and seized the young people’s hearts. Hanfu brings feelings of nostalgia, ancestor worship, and gratitude to modern people. At the same time, hanfu production, sales, makeup, and supporting service markets have risen, and hanfu element immersive experience marketing is also in the stage of vigorous development.   Traditional culture in the costume The West Lake cruise ship with rabbit lanterns is swaying in the lake, and several tourists in hanfu complement with beautiful scenery, which is pretty much in line with the feeling of crossing Hangzhou, a thousand-year-old city. Many young people are immersive in it. "When I watched costume dramas as a child, I often put on a bed sheet to imitate a robe, and now wearing hanfu is more like a dream come true." Yan Peishan, who studied in Italy, said, "Earlier, I played erhu on stage in hanfu and won a lot of praise. It turns out that there are not only cheongsams in China, but also beautiful hanfu." Hanfu does not only refer…

The Definition of Auspicious Costume Ji Fu (吉服, auspicious costume) was a new classification of clothing formed in the Ming Dynasty, referring to the clothing used for various auspicious occasions such as seasonal festivals, weddings, birthdays, and banquets. In the Qing Dynasty, it became a specialized category within the clothing system. Traditional Ji Fu refers to the clothing used for auspicious ceremonies (major rituals, etc.). With the development of the times and the increase in festivals and celebrations, there was a need for a special auspicious costume for all kinds of festive occasions, so the Ming dynasty referred to a more formal dress than the everyday casual dress for rituals and all kinds of auspicious occasions as the auspicious costume. Although not found in the system, the term "Ji Fu" was repeatedly used in various political books and literary works. During the Ming dynasty, the auspicious costume was not a single standard style, but the same style as the regular and casual hanfu costumes, such as Yuan Ling Pao, Zhi Shen, Yi San, Tie Li, Dao Pao, Ao Qun, etc. The color was mostly in festive colors such as red, for example, the officials used to wear a red round…

Vocab “Step ban” or “walking ban” - Jin Bu (禁步, jìn bù) - an accessory often matches with hanfu. It is an accessory that is threaded together with jade stones and hung over a hanfu dress.  Jade pendant - Yu Pei (玉佩, yù pèi) - also an accessory made of silk threads, beads, and jade stone that hung at the waist. But yùpèi are much simpler than Jin Bu, oftentimes it is just a jade with one or two beads tied together with thread. Oftentimes there will be no silk or bead tassels at the bottom like Jin Bu.   Materials Jin Bu are usually made up of colored silk threads, jade beads, and jade pendants combined together. There may or not have tassels made up of silk thread at the end of the accessory. If not, the tassels may also be made up of threaded beads.  Jin Bu in the past were made up of precious stones, and since they are threaded, they will clash together when walking making jade clash. If this is heard now people might not think much about it, but the etiquette and customs were stricter in ancient times, especially on feminine etiquette and how…

Vocabulary Ji, 笄 (jī) - the most simplistic hair accessories to secure updos used by ancient Chinese.  Zan, 簪 (zān) - a more complex version of Ji. What hanfu hairpins are now called. On one end are accessories, and the other is a pin that is inserted into a hair bun. Chai, 钗 (chāi) - also a hairpin quite similar to Zan. Chāi have two split pins on one end. The two pins will get pushed into the hair bun and stay much more securely than one pin in Zan and Ji. Guan, 冠 (guān) - literal translation is "crown". The crown in ancient China looked more like a net hat that encompassed hair buns within. Based on the crown, any sort of hairpin can be used to further secure the hat to the head.   Materials and Purpose Ji are considered the earliest and plainest hair accessories. It takes on the shape of a stick with or without a simple carved out design on one end and a single stick on the other. It is often carved out of a single piece of material or cut out separately then assembled at the end. This accessory is said to exist even…

Historical Background The Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties were the most important period in Chinese history. From the end of the 6th century to the mid-10th century A.D., feudal rule lasted more than 300 years. Tang Dynasty was the most glorious dynasty in Chinese history. It was powerful, materially abundant, and famous in frontiers and overseas. In 581 A.D., Emperor Wen of Sui, Yang Jian seized the Northern Zhou regime and established the Sui Dynasty, and then destroyed Chen and unified ancient China. However, Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty was exacting and profligate, which made the Sui Dynasty last for only 39 years. Since the founding of Li Yuan and the pacification the various forces. Li Shimin succeeded to the throne as Emperor Taizong. During his reign for more than 20 years, logical administration and harmonious people. Historically, this peaceful and prosperous era was called the Governance during the Zhenguan Reign. After that, until ten years of Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty, the country was prosperous and the people were safe and the society was rich, and historically known as the KaiYuan Period. After the An Lushan Rebellion, the Tang Dynasty changed from prosperity to decline. In 907,…

Since the Chinoiserie style became very popular, Dunhuang culture has naturally become one of the focuses. Many Chinese actresses and hanfu models have tried the Dunhuang flying apsaras. Dunhuang flying apsaras, as the top popular exotic culture, how is it possible to combine grandeur and ebullience in such an ingenious way? It all starts with the Dunhuang murals.   The Origin of Dunhuang Frescoes During the Northern and Southern Dynasties, the divisive political situation made people’s lives turbulent. The concept of Buddhism’s compassion and salvation provided comfort to suffering people and developed rapidly. There was a monk on way to the west, passing through Dunhuang and encountered a golden light spectacle, identified as a holy place. He hired the craftsman to dig caves here and carve Buddha statues. Over time, not only the princes and nobles, and even the common people have come to Dunhuang to excavate Buddhist caves, then the scale of the grottoes gradually expanded. Gradually, Dunhuang, located at the west end of the Hexi Corridor, has become a true fertile land for the spread of Buddhism, forged a rich treasure house of art and culture. Grand, magnificent, and surpassingly beautiful, Dunhuang has an unparalleled aesthetic background, known…

Hey everyone! College applications have been kicking my ass for the past few months so I've been pretty silent for a while, but I'm finally done—which means more hanfu content for you all to see! For those of you who don’t know me, I’m redsugar, or Tangtang (or a bajillion other variants of red and sugar in multiple languages that people have given to me as nicknames)! I’m a gender fluid Taiwanese-American hanfu designer based in the US. I’ve been part of the Newhanfu community for a couple years now and written extensively about my historical research and designs. Today I’m going to give you all a little summary of the designs modeled in our January 2023 model call outing! This includes five out of my eight 2023 Lunar New Year collection, photographed at the Chinese Cultural Garden in San Jose. Special thanks to all the participants for modeling these samples, and hope you guys all had plenty of fun! Let’s get to it then~ 機杼/JIZHU (modeled by 采蘑菇的小姑娘背着一只大狂猪) First up is Jizhu! This is a late Ming Dynasty four-piece set consisting of a 百迭裙/百迭裙/bai3 die2 qun2/hundred-layered skirt, a 立領衫/立领衫/li4 ling3 shan1/standing collar top, a waist tie, and a 比甲/比甲/bi3…

Serious eyes and magnificent scenes make the audience seem to be able to be in the painting. Each painting is powerful and has an impressive presence, and the oriental fantasy narrative is integrated into the painting, which makes people excited. Xiang Yu, the overlord of Western Chu with soaring aspirations. The unruly and uninhibited Monkey King. Tang warriors, who dressed in warrior armor and wore masks in the style of Tang Sancai pottery, guarded the tomb of Li Yuan, the founding emperor of the Tang Dynasty. Xu Zihui, born in Qingdao in 1996, has been in contact with comic strips, sketches and cartoons since childhood, and he has been drawing for 16 years. During his study at the Lu Xun Academy of Fine Arts, he won numerous awards and several heavyweight awards.   Young "veteran artist" Becoming famous at a young age, most people thought he was a genius. But in fact, Xu Zihui's creation in the past few years is also a process of constant transformation. He changes in each bottleneck and doubt, and gains new life in difficulties just as in his painting. During the seven-year undergraduate and master years, the first two years are a learning process,…

History Background In 1368, Zhu Yuanzhang has crowned emperor. His regime was established with the name of Hongwu and the whole dynasty was named Ming. In the 14th year of Hongwu, the remaining forces of the Yuan dynasty in Yunnan were pacified and ancient China was finally reunified again. Zhu Yuanzhang abandoned the costume system established in the Yuan Dynasty and adopted the system of the Han and Tang dynasties and tried his best to restore the various rituals of the Han people. From the beginning of the Ming Dynasty to the reign of the second emperor Chengzu, the Ming Dynasty had been quite prosperous, and after Chengzu, Emperor Xuanzong and Emperor Yingzong were still able to maintain prosperity. But since then, due to the eunuchs' disorderly administration and the invasion of pirates, the country had been on the way of declining. In 1644, Wu Sangui opened the Shanhai Pass and led the Qing troops into Beijing to fight against Li Zicheng. And after that the Qing troops entered the Central Plains. The Ming dynasty lasted 227 years from the beginning of the Ming dynasty to the death of Emperor Chongzhen who hanged himself.   Ming Dynasty Makeup Features During…

The rabbit has a positive, kind and transcendent meaning in Chinese culture. According to the ancient Chinese zodiac interpretation, the rabbit is a symbol of resourcefulness and luck, and people have a special fondness for the quirky rabbit. Therefore, the New Year's Eve dressing for the Year of the Rabbit should also reflect the innocent, lovely, witty and lively style.   New Year Hanfu Outfit for Female Compared to the mature dignity of the cross collar hanfu, the straight collar costume is undoubtedly more spirited and playful, with a parallel collar and wide cuffs with a white fluffy edge, which is both warm and beautiful, reminding people unconsciously of a white rabbit hiding in a snowdrift. The two white pompoms on the neckline, whether tied up or naturally drooping, add a touch of girlish sweetness and make the heart grow fonder with just a glance. The bunny pattern on the bottom skirt perfectly fits the rabbit element of the New Year, and the main tone of red makes the whole set overflowing with fire enthusiasm and joyful atmosphere. In terms of color choice, in addition to the common New Year's red, you can also choose many other shades, but all…

Summary Modern Hanfu, also known as New style Hanfu, originates from the traditional classical dress style of the Han ethnic group and retains its typical formal characteristics, but innovates by combining it with the diverse wearing situations and fashion aesthetics of the current public. The core features of modern hanfu are: innovation, openness, and contextual diversity. While retaining the basic forms and aesthetics of ancient hanfu, modern hanfu has gained more and more popular among consumers in recent years by innovating its design to fit modern people's dressing habits and aesthetics, making it an everyday look. With the return of traditional Chinese culture to the mainstream, there are more and more hanfu with new styles. From both the cultural and productive point of view, the future of the new style hanfu industry is very promising.   The basic situation of the modern Hanfu industry Modernization and daily use will drive the industry further The market size of the modern hanfu industry in 2021 is 1.4 billion dollars, up 6.4% year-on-year, slowing down relative to the past five years. This is partly because of the decline in the ability and willingness of consumers to purchase due to factors such as the…

After thousands of years of history, Chinese Hanfu styles are extremely diverse. However, the Hanfu recognized today mainly refers to the costumes of powerful dynasties such as Han, Tang, Song, and Ming, and is also the main basis for contemporary Hanfu design. There is no longer to consider the hierarchy in wearing modern Hanfu, with a richer mix of colors, patterns, and fabrics. Modern Hanfu designs are more simple and more comfortable, incorporating more fashionable elements while not losing beauty. Hanfu enthusiasts can choose and match Hanfu according to their own style and preference. However, because of its distinctive national characteristics, following certain wearing etiquette will definitely make the wearer more elegant and confident.   The Origin of Hanfu Chinese Hanfu is the traditional costume of the Han people. How did the name originate? How is it worn? What is the relationship between Han Chinese costume and Chinese culture? These questions can not be explained in a few words. First of all, we need to understand the origin of the Han Chinese, the early Han Chinese set the tone for the dress of later generations. Hua Xia The Han originated from Huaxia. The term "Huaxia (华夏)" was first used in…

Holliday season is upon us! Many of you may already be shopping for gifts. If you have hanfu lovers amongst your friends and relatives, or if you need to come up with a list of your own to give ideas to your relatives, here are a few inspirations. My choices went to objects that are: versatile, so you can have a few of the item and use them interchangeably hard to make for yourself, so even if the person makes hanfu for themselves, they would be happy to have one ready-made hard to find in stores but available online useful, no matter how many you have   "Mother-child" metal buttons "Mother-child" metal buttons, also know as Zimukou (子母扣). They are so beautiful, there are so many shapes and sizes, and so hard to find in sewing supply stores, especially in Western countries. It adds greatly to the beauty of a Ming dinasty shan or ao, but can also be used on daily wear. Trimmings Especially enbroidered, ancient looking trimmings. They are no longer fashionable for modern sewing supply shops, you can almost only find them online. It adds style to your garment right away, and unless you weave, you cannot…

Winter hanfu dressing wear can probably be summarized as two different types. One is a short lining top + pants and skirt overlay, the other is to rely on a long coat or thick enough outerwear to keep warm. No matter which types is used, matching is the top priority, no one want to become dressed bloated in winter! Follow Hanfu Times to find your winter Hanfu inspiration.   Eye-catching Colors There are many color-matching principles that can be applied in winter hanfu. Clever matching can also make you more brilliant, such as color clash matching. Bright colors can choose peacock green, olive, treasure blue, and other blue and green cool shades. If choose warm colors, it will enlarge the sense of expansion. The middle color can be used as beige, light white, and more natural. The olive color is more suitable for wearing as a jacket, inside with black or khaki. If you wear it inside, it is recommended to add a belt. The lapel jacket + airplane sleeves + two pieces of skirt can be worn as a change of season in autumn and winter. Black with floral patterns, light series of solid colors with white, are bright enough.…

Hey everyone, long time no see! It's been a while and I promise I'm still working on the Song Dynasty sections of Hanfu Unearthed—in the meantime, enjoy this not-so-short cheat sheet to all of the most commonly used fibers and weaves in hanfu, whether historically or in the industry today. Fibers Fibers are the material from which threads are spun to be made into fabric. These include synthetic fibers made in labs or factories by humans, as well as animal fibers that are grown as fur or silk by animals, or plant-based fibers that we harvest from various fibrous plants. Tencel Rising in popularity, especially last summer, tencel is a kind of semi-synthetic fiber made from cellulose, also called lyocell, originally made to imitate silk. Made by dissolving cellulose into pulp and using dry jet-et spinning to reconstitute the fibers, it’s a clean process that creates a kind of synthetic fiber using natural materials: easier to dye than cotton, more breathable than polyester, moisture-wicking, and softer than linen. The one downside of tencel is that it’s easily wrinkled, but its smooth draping quality and breathability make it a first choice for hanfu manufacturers today. Other rayons are also used, but…