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Hanfu Making(3) - Ruqun Cutting & Sewing Patterns
This section contains Ruqun (襦裙), which can be divided into: Jiao Ling Shang Ru (交领上襦), Dui Jin Shang Ru (对襟上襦), Zhe Qun (褶裙) type A, Zhe Qun type B, Qi Xiong Shang Ru (齐胸上襦). Size range: Jiao Ling Shang Ru, Dui Jin Shang Ru, and Qi Xiong Shang Ru (155/80A to 175/96A), Zhe Qun (155/64A to 175/80A). Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance. The Ruqun in this section should actually be called "Shan Qun (衫裙)". Ruqun is supposed to refer to the Hanfu style from the Wei and Jin dynasties, with a Yaolan (腰襕). Introduction Ruqun (襦裙) is one of the earliest and most basic clothing forms in the history of Chinese dress. The Ruqun described here generally has a short upper Ru, reaching only to the waist or flush with the chest, while the Qun (skirt) is long and hangs down to the ground. According to the different styles of the collar, can be divided into: Jiao Ling Ruqun(交领襦裙, cross-collar); Dui Jin Ruqun(对襟襦裙, lapel). According to the height of the skirt waist, can be divided into: Zhong Yao Ruqun(中腰襦裙, mid-waist), the same as the Qi Yao Ruqun(齐腰襦裙); Gao Yao… -
How to Wear Hanfu (3) – Tang Dynasty Qiyao Ruqun
Ruqun (襦裙), is one of the earliest and most basic forms of Hanfu. Ru means top garment, and Qun means skirt. There are two types of Ruqun if categorized by where the skirt is tied, one with the skirt tied above the chest (the chest-high Ruqun - Qixiong Ruqun), and the other one is tied on the waist, and for today, we are going to talk about the waist-high Ruqun - Qiyao Ruqun. Let's take a look at history and how to wear the Qiyao Ruqun. 1: History of Qiyao Ruqun Ruqun is one of the styles under the Yi Chang (衣裳) category of hanfu, Yi Chang basically means top and skirt, although traditional Chinese clothing varied greatly from each dynasty to the next, the few basic styles remained unchanged for the most part. During the Tang Dynasty, other than the iconic Qixiong Ruqun, a variety of Qiyao Ruqun styles were also in favor. In this famous Chinese painting “Night Revels of Han Xizai (韩熙载夜宴图)”, all the musician ladies were wearing Qiyao Ruqun, with bold and vibrant colors. 2: Wear the Top Garment of Qiyao Ruqun Unlike Qixiong Ruqun, you have to wear a camisole with the Qiyao… -
How to Wear Hanfu (2) - Tang Dynasty Qixiong Ruqun
Qixiong Ruqun(齐胸襦裙) is a typical style during the Tang Dynasty, the golden age of China. You can find similar styles of clothing in the famous Tang Dynasty paintings. This is a type of Ruqun with the skirt tied above the breasts and worn with short blouses. Now let’s look at the individual pieces and how to wear Hanfu - Qixiong Ruqun. 1: Wear the Blouse of Qixiong Ruqun The word Ruqun translates into top garment and skirt in Chinese, it is one of the earliest and most basic forms of Hanfu. This blouse has parallel collars and is relatively short to match the long skirt, it is very common to find flower and plant shaped patterns on fabrics during the Tang Dynasty. Put the blouse on first, and tie the knot. 2: Wear the Skirt of Qixiong Ruqun Moving onto the skirt, it is long and pleated, unlike traditional skirts which are usually one piece of fabric wrapped around the body, this modern twist separates the back and front panel and has two sets of ties, it is designed to ensure a better fit and help it stay put on the body. The first step into the center… -
Hanfu Photo Sharing of Ruqun-Return to the Tang Dynasty
Today, we share a group of photos of Ruqun, the posture and style is worth learning Ruqun has always been a popular style, put on your ruqun and take beautiful pictures~ -
How to Wear Chest Ruqun Hanfu
Before, we introduced the way to wear a wist ruqun(one slice), and next, we will simply tell you how to wear a Qi xiong Ruqun(Chest Ruqun). Qi Xiong Ruqun is made up of front and back pieces(as the picture show). Step 1: Separate the front and back pieces and wear the back ones first. Step 2: tie up the back pieces. Step 3: tie up the front one(put white tape and red tape together). Step 4:Put an X-fork behind you, then take the tape to the front. Step 5: Make a knot. Step 6: The next step is to decorate the extra tape, wrap them in circles, just like a kind of Chinese food: Mahua (麻花, Fried Dough Twists). Step 7: Tie a knot at the end. Step 8: The red tape also needs to be wrap in circles. Finished~ Wearing Hanfu does not seem to be such a difficult thing, but it also requires repeated attempts to get the best look. If you have any questions during the wearing process, you are welcome to contact us by email, we will give you a more detailed explanation. More about how to wear Hanfu can be found here. -
How to Wear a Waist Ruqun
Many friends who have not touched Hanfu will have a lot of confusion when they wear Hanfu for the first time. How to wear it? Well, we will have a series of articles to simply tell you how to wear Hanfu. Today, let me show you how to wear a Waist Ruqun. First of all, what you have to know is that the Hanfu were without belts and buttons, all by lacing. The first one to introduce is Waist Ruqun(one slice), one slice means that the only one piece of dress. Step 1: Put the skirt over the waist, align the center of the skirt with the middle of the body, wrap the skirt around the waist and wrap the lower body. (This process is similar to a bathrobe after bathing.) Step 2: Sort out, and from the side, the place to be tied is left out. Step 3: Wrap the rope around the back (Note: cross the rope twice) Step 4: Then wrap around the front of the body. Step 5: Pass the rope through the part of the rope that has been tied to the waist Finished~ Wearing Hanfu does not seem to be such a difficult thing, but… -
The Difference Between Male and Female Ruqun Hanfu
The previous article's introduction focuses on women's Ruqun, and then we introduce men's Ruqun. The men's Ruqun is a male dress, composed of a top blouse and a lower dress, and the upper jaw is mostly handed over(Jiaoling). Compared with the women's skirts, the men's skirt style and pattern are plainer. "Zhou Yi(周易)" said that “Yellow Emperor, Yao, Shun is wearing clothes and the world is ruled”, which shows that in the Yellow Emperor's era, the tops of the blouses were the styles of the ancient Chinese people. This is the prototype of the Ruqun (a top blouse and a lower dress)of the next generation, costumes of the blouses, and other costumes. Although its specific shape still needs further research, but the suit of a top blouse and a lower skirt lays the foundation of Hanfu. Until the appearance of Zhiju, Quju, and so on, the number of people wearing Ruqun(Ru dress) has been reduced, but the official high-standard men's dress was still the Ruqun system(a top blouse and a lower dress), which continued until the Ming Dynasty. The traditional dress of Hanfu is an enclosed skirt, which is made up of several pieces of skirts and is connected to… -
About Ruqun, You Should Know These
In the previous article, we introduced the Ruqun(襦裙), The Ruqun is composed of a short top and a long dress, that is, composed of a top and a lower dress. Song Suzhen's "Silkworm" poem: "I don't worry about the bread bait, I have fortunately had a Ruqun(Ru dress)." The style of the Ruqun has appeared in the Warring States period. The collar of the scorpion is divided into "Jiaoling Ruqun" and "Zhiling Ruqun". The waist of the dress is divided into"Zhongyao Ruqun", "Gaoyao Ruqun" and "Qixiong Ruqun". Ruqun is classified according to whether they are clipped or not. The Ruqun can be divided into single Ruqun and double Ruqun, single Ruqun close to the shirt, and double Ruqun are close to coat. Next to introduce is "Banbi (半臂, half arm)", it and the shawl constitute an important part of the Ruqun. "Banbi" classification: 1.according to the collar type, which can be divided into : Duijin half-armed dress Jiaoling half-armed dress Tanling half-armed dress (Tang Dynasty). It is a short-sleeved top for summer use in ancient China. It was only popular in the private sector and was convenient for the daily life and labor of the working people. The length of… -
4 Tips You Should Know about Ruqun
The Ruqun(襦裙) is one of the earliest and most basic forms of clothing in the history of Han costumes. From the Warring States period with physical evidence, at the end of the Ming and Qing Dynasties with the "shaving and easy clothing". Is the most basic form of traditional Han costumes. In the meantime, more than 2,000 years, although the length and width have changed, the basic form has always maintained the original style. The Ruqun(襦裙) consists of the lower dress and the upper jaw (is short coat) and is generally called the Changfu (常服, uniform). According to the collar type, the Ruqun can be divided into: "Jiaoling Ruqun (交领襦裙, cross collar Ruqun)" "Zhiling Ruqun (直领襦裙, straight collar Ruqun)" According to the waist position of the dress, can be divided into: "Zhongyao Ruqun (中腰襦裙, a middle waist Ruqun)" "Gaoyao Ruqun (高腰襦裙, a high waist Ruqun)" "Qixiong Ruqun (齐胸襦裙, a chest Ruqun)" the Jiaoling Ruqun: the cross-collar dress is quite common in the Song Dynasty, it is characterized by the captain for the cross-collar.Can be subdivided into three: Jiaoling-Qiyao Ruqun(交领-齐腰襦裙,cross-collar Qi waist Ruqun): Qiyao Ruqun: dress's waist and waist are flush. Jiaoling-Gaoyao Ruqun (交领-高腰襦裙,cross-collar high waist Ruqun): Gaoyao Ruqun: The line… -
Beyond Tradition: The Hanfu Revival and its Influence on Daily Life
The China Spring Festival Gala of 2024 received high praise, with the program "Nian Jin" providing a delightful surprise to the audience. Liu Tao, Liu Shishi, Li Qin, and Guan Xiaotong appeared on stage in costumes from different dynasties such as Han, Tang, Song, and Ming, leading a group of Hanfu girls to present a visual feast of traditional culture to the audience. Hanfu has finally gained recognition once again, being showcased to people nationwide and even worldwide. Behind this success lies a movement called the "Hanfu Revival" that has been unfolding over the past twenty years. Countless enthusiasts of Hanfu, undaunted by criticism, have cherished traditional values, all in the pursuit of reviving the attire of the Han people that was once stripped away. From facing scrutiny to now being ubiquitous, how has the revival of Hanfu come to this point, and what drives their unwavering dedication? In 2003, a group of awakeners and practitioners of Han culture began to gather on a forum called Han Wang, where one of the main topics of discussion was Hanfu. Despite being relegated to the sidelines of history during the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, Hanfu, as a traditional attire of… -
The Popularity of Hanfu Culture: When Traditional Hanfu Dress Comes to Contemporary Life
An increasing number of young people are beginning to experiment with wearing hanfu, these clothing styles, which were widely used in different historical dynasties in ancient China, are now being reintegrated into contemporary life and have become an important part of youth culture. The Origin of Hanfu Culture: From Niche to Popular Typically, the origin of the modern Hanfu culture is traced back to 2003. On November 22nd of that year, a power worker named Wang Letian from Zhengzhou, Henan, walked into a downtown commercial street wearing hanfu. This event was reported by Singapore's Lianhe Zaobao, making Wang Letian the first modern Chinese person wearing hanfu to appear in public. Wang Letian was introduced to hanfu culture through forums Han Wang, and around 2003, the first hanfu enthusiasts gathered around Han Wang and other online hanfu forums, gradually forming the Hanfu circle. At the same time, some offline Hanfu culture communities began to be established. Around 2011, the subculture of adolescent internet culture rapidly developed. With the successive rise of the Lolita and the JK uniform fashion subculture, as well as the development of the cosplay community, hanfu has found its place among various clothing subcultures and has gained… -
Hanfu Accessory: Gong Tao History and Differences With Si Tao
Vocab Palace Belt - 宫绦, gōng tāo, is an accessory worn around the waist to prevent dresses from flowing in the wind. It is commonly paired with hanfu for a simplistic look and referred to as such in modern times. Silk Belt - 丝绦, sī tāo. An accessory that ancient Chinese people used to refer to. However, it was not only used as a fashion accessory but also on fans or flutes. Zhiduo - 直裰, zhídāo. A traditional Chinese robe worn by scholars and officials during the Ming and Qing dynasties. It has a straight-cut Mandarin collar without openings and is a formal attire reserved for special occasions. It is worn over long shirts and wide trousers. Tassels - 流苏, liúsū. In ancient China it had different names, such as 穗子 (suìzi), 缨旒 (yīng liú), and 流苏 (liúsū). Nowadays, 流苏 (liúsū) is the most commonly used name for tassels. Silk ribbon- 绶, shòu - the ribbon with a jade or officials seals at the end. History of Gong Tao The Palace Belt, known as 宫绦 (gōng tāo), is an accessory that dates back to the Warring States Period. It is a long woven rope with tassels attached on both… -
Exploring the Aesthetics of Song Dynasty Costumes through The Song, Painted
Unlock the aesthetics of the Song Dynasty and its people through this selection of elegant and inspiring paintings. "The Song, Painted" is a digital exhibition launched by CGTN, which comprehensively presents the living scenes of ancient people in Song Dynasty paintings. Several artists, scholars, and curators share their professional insights to analyze the historical and cultural elements hidden within the Song Dynasty paintings. In this article, let's follow the Hanfu Shidai and renowned designer Chu Yan into the world of Song Dynasty paintings to appreciate the beauty of Song Dynasty costumes and makeup in detail. Song Dynasty costumes were renowned for their refined and elegant beauty. -- Chu Yan During the Song Dynasty, there was a significant shift in female body aesthetics. While plumpness was considered beautiful in the Tang Dynasty, thinness became the beauty standard in the Song Dynasty. Simple and elegant clothing styles were widely popular during this time. In "Palace Concert Rehearsal," we can see characters dressed in simple and modest Beizi (long-sleeved garments) with straight collars and side slits. The loose fit and narrow skirt worn with a tight chest wrap fully showcased the slender and graceful physique of Song women. The painting "Enjoying the Moon… -
Bloom in Style: Recommended Spring Hanfu for the Flower Season
As the flower season approaches, it's the perfect time to refresh your wardrobe with pieces that exude elegance and grace. If you're looking for inspiration, spring hanfu offers a stunning array of options that celebrate the beauty of nature and femininity. Hanfu Shidai has compiled several spring hanfu that are appropriate for the season, based on the types of flowers that are available in spring. Winter Jasmine Winter jasmine, the earliest blooming flower among all, is named after its ability to welcome spring when all the other flowers start to bloom. As a harbinger of spring, it brings a sense of vitality with its clusters of flowers hanging from the branches like a golden waterfall. Currently, it is the prime season for winter jasmine, and you can capture its beauty through the lens and use it to adorn life. Recommended Hanfu The bright and vibrant colors of the winter jasmine make it an excellent choice for photography with light-colored hanfu outfits. Such as a white or light-colored cross collar shirt on top and pair it with a blue-green waist-length skirt. This combination not only complements the flower but also gives a fresh and playful feeling. Yulan Magnolia Yulan… -
History of Ancient China Hair Accessories: Ji
Vocabulary Ji, 笄 (jī) - the most simplistic hair accessories to secure updos used by ancient Chinese. Zan, 簪 (zān) - a more complex version of Ji. What hanfu hairpins are now called. On one end are accessories, and the other is a pin that is inserted into a hair bun. Chai, 钗 (chāi) - also a hairpin quite similar to Zan. Chāi have two split pins on one end. The two pins will get pushed into the hair bun and stay much more securely than one pin in Zan and Ji. Guan, 冠 (guān) - literal translation is "crown". The crown in ancient China looked more like a net hat that encompassed hair buns within. Based on the crown, any sort of hairpin can be used to further secure the hat to the head. Materials and Purpose Ji are considered the earliest and plainest hair accessories. It takes on the shape of a stick with or without a simple carved out design on one end and a single stick on the other. It is often carved out of a single piece of material or cut out separately then assembled at the end. This accessory is said to exist even… -
Autumn Chinese Clothing Hanfu Style
Entering autumn, in addition to adapting to the weather, we also should change the style of clothes we wear. Temperatures in autumn are around 60% cold and 40% hot, because the sun doesn't last long and the weather tends to seem dark. It often rains but not heavily, when in early autumn there is a lot of fog that appears in the morning. So, warm clothes are more suitable to wear during this season. Now, the spread of hanfu is getting more and more widespread, and everyone can definitely see many people wearing hanfu in everyday life. Be it male or female, young or old, there are many people who wear Hanfu. So, what kind of hanfu should you wear in autumn? It's early fall, and the weather is a little cooler than summer, but not too cold. Therefore, hanfu worn in summer can still be worn today. For example, qixiong ruqun. In addition, Song dynasty hanfu, such as xuanqun, beizi, baidiequn, and others are also very suitable to be worn in autumn. When autumn is a little deeper, everyone can wear thicker hanfu. For example, the Ming dynasty hanfu which is very suitable to be worn in autumn. Of… -
Hanfu Unearthed IV: Tang Dynasty Relics in Astana Cemetery and Shosoin Repository
Haha so I lied in the last article, we’re actually doing the Tang Dynasty next! This is for sure going to be a favorite of everyone—after all, who can resist the flamboyant, vibrant beauty of the Tang Dynasty? Let’s get right to it and see where some of our favorite Tang Dynasty hanfu comes from. The Tang Dynasty was a period of time (618–907CE) preceded by the Wei/Jin Northern and Southern Dynasties and proceeded by the Five Dynasties Ten Kingdoms period, and then the Song Dynasty (the Five Dynasties Ten Kingdoms period is often regarded as part of the Tang fashion period for hanfu purposes because the fashion trends followed pretty closely). A flourishing golden age for China, the Tang Dynasty saw leaps and bounds in art, poetry, and exchange of culture—the most open-minded society that has existed in the world in a very long time. People freely exchanged cultural norms, aesthetics, and ideas between nations from the Silk Road and beyond, resulting in a blossoming of the world of clothing as well, and a rich collection of art for us to reference our hanfu off of. Astana Cemetery Interestingly, not a lot of clothing of the Tang Dynasty… -
Hanfu Unearthed III: Wei/Jin and Northern/Southern Dynasty Relics
Hey everyone, thanks for waiting! Our next topic is gonna be pretty exciting for most of you who love the classic ruqun aesthetic: we’re going to be going over the historical relics for the Wei/Jin and Northern/Southern Dynasty! Since there are so few of these relics, this article is going to focus on the Wei/Jin Dynasty as a whole, including restored relics, art references, and misconceptions about the Wei/Jin Dynasty. It might be a bit of a shorter article due to little material, but I know that people are really interested in this period of time, so let’s get to it! 魏晉南北朝/魏晋南北朝/wei4 jin4 nan2 bei3 chao2/Wei/Jin and Northern/Southern Dynasties refers to the period of time between 220 and 589CE. Also known as 六朝/六朝/liu4 chao2/Six Dynasties, this set of dynasties are compressed into one general block of time by historians because of the rapid exchange of power. Following the Eastern Han dynasty, the Three Kingdoms period had the Cao Wei kingdom at its forefront, with the Western Jin Dynasty coming right after ruled by Sima Yan. This was followed by the Northern Dynasties, when the Northern Wei, Western Wei, Easter Wei, and Northern Zhou and Qi Dynasties followed each other rapidly,… -
Hanfu Restoration Costume Show in Latest Documentary
Recently, Dragon Television announced that China's first documentary to briefly describe the creation story of China and Chinese civilization with national archaeological discoveries, "He Yi Zhong Guo (何以中国)", will officially meet with the audience in the near future. The program team spent more than 400 days and nights photographing more than 40,000 kilometers, which is equivalent to more than one week around the equator, and photographing more than 230 archaeological sites, archaeological workstations, museums, and other sites across the country. In the "He Yi Zhong Guo" Special Program: Talk About Archaeological History, the program team invited the Chinese Hanfu restoration team (中国装束复原小组). In the program, they took the audience on a tour of "fashionable clothing" from the Spring and Autumn period to the Three Kingdoms period through a hanfu show. The first is the long dress from the late Spring and Autumn periods to the early and mid-Warring States Period. It is characterized by the hollowing out behind the long dress, revealing the long skirt dragging on the ground. Red is the right color, which is suitable for the attendance of some important occasions. The hairstyle is a chic and delicate combed bun, showing the slender neck behind the head.… -
2022 Chinese Scholar’s Garden Hanfu Outing
Hey everyone—a little busy as of late, but rest assured that I am not dead! I just had to pop back to belatedly report on the 2022 Scholar's Garden Hanfu Outing organized by Yulan/Chlobaltblue in our hanfu discord server community! This half-day event consisted of a photoshoot and group dinner on July 30th, 2022 in the New York Chinese Scholar's Garden with a small group of eight people attending. People from all over New England joined us for this outing, from Conneticut residents to Boston students flying all the way up to Staten Island. Unfortunately I was not one of those people, but I'm here to share with you all the pictures and experience that my sister provided! I'll also be doing a brief summary of some of the outfits that everyone is wearing. Some of our members had their own sets, while others borrowed from each other. A majority of our outfits were Wei/Jin Style (魏晉風) outfits which consisted of a zhequn, cross collar top, and daxiushan. Ani also wore a Ming-style summer set, with a modified zhuyao with pearl buttons in the front to mimic the zimu buttons of a zhuyao and a Ming helingshan, a style that greatly resembles…