NEWHANFU

In the golden age of historical dramas, off-the-shoulder costumes were a staple, often resembling an ancient version of a "deep V." These bold designs captivated audiences with their dramatic flair, but as modern productions strive for greater historical accuracy, such outfits have largely vanished from the screen. Were these revealing styles ever rooted in historical reality? And what led to their decline in contemporary storytelling? The Historical Roots of Off-the-Shoulder Fashion Contrary to the sensationalized portrayals in early historical dramas, ancient Chinese fashion was far more conservative. While certain artworks, such as the murals in the Xu Xianxiu Tomb (徐显秀墓) or figurines from the Wei and Jin dynasties, might suggest the existence of off-the-shoulder attire, these depictions are often misinterpreted. In reality, such outfits were layered with undergarments, ensuring modesty even with a slightly exposed neckline. For instance, during the Northern and Southern Dynasties, a style known as daxiu ru (large-sleeved robes, 大袖襦) gained popularity. This design featured wide sleeves and a deep neckline, but it was always paired with a circular undergarment or liangdang (a type of vest, 裲裆) to cover the shoulders. The result was a look that revealed only the collarbone at most—far from the exaggerated "shoulder-baring"…...

In the world of historical dramas, few details are as iconic as the sight of characters tying their wide sleeves before engaging in combat. This simple yet practical act, often seen in childhood favorites, is more than just a stylistic choice—it’s a reflection of ancient Chinese ingenuity and functionality. From battlefields to everyday life, the practice of tying sleeves has deep cultural roots, blending practicality with elegance. The Origins of Sleeve-Tying The tradition of tying sleeves can be traced back to two main purposes: as a simplified version of arm guards in martial contexts and as a practical tool for daily tasks, known as panbo (襻膊). Both uses highlight the adaptability of ancient Chinese clothing to the needs of its wearers. Arm Guards: From Battlefields to Screens The earliest examples of arm guards date back to the Warring States period, where bronze arm guards were used by soldiers. These cylindrical metal protectors were designed to shield the forearm during combat. By the Han Dynasty, arm guards evolved into textile versions, such as the famous "Five Stars Rise in the East, Benefiting China" arm guard, made of intricately woven brocade. These guards were secured with straps, offering both protection and flexibility.…...

Purple, often associated with royalty and nobility, has long been considered a color of prestige and power. In ancient China, it was widely believed that commoners were forbidden from wearing purple, reserved exclusively for the elite. But was this truly the case? The answer, as it turns out, is more nuanced than a simple yes or no. The Origins of Purple’s Prestige The perception of purple as a noble color stems from two main factors: the high cost of purple dye and the influence of class systems and cultural trends. However, it’s important to note that not all shades of purple were created equal. The color spectrum includes countless variations, and not every hue was off-limits to the general populace. The Cost of Purple Dye Purple dye was indeed expensive to produce. One of the most common sources of purple dye was the murasaki plant, while another was sappanwood, which yielded a different shade of purple. However, plant-based dyes were less stable and durable compared to mineral-based alternatives. During the Han Dynasty, a breakthrough occurred with the discovery of "Han Purple," a synthetic pigment made from barium copper silicate. This vibrant hue, found on the terracotta warriors of the Qin…...

In the world of historical dramas, the weimao (帷帽, veiled hat) is a staple of cinematic beauty. Often seen in scenes where the heroine’s face is revealed as the wind lifts her veil, this iconic accessory has become synonymous with ethereal charm. Yet, despite its visual appeal, the weimao is often dismissed as a “beautiful but useless” item. But is it truly just a decorative prop, or does it hold deeper historical significance? The Origins of the Veiled Hat The weimao traces its roots to the nomadic tribes of ancient Central Asia, where it was initially designed as a practical garment to shield wearers from sand and wind. Its predecessor, the mili (羃篱, a bamboo-framed veil), was worn by both men and women for protection during travel. Over time, the weimao evolved into a shorter, more refined version made of silk or gauze, with a wide brim and a veil that draped to the neck. By the Tang Dynasty (618–907 AD), it had become a fashionable accessory for women, symbolizing both modesty and status. A Symbol of Changing Times The weimao reached its peak popularity during the Tang Dynasty, a period marked by cultural openness and innovation. Historical records, such…...

In the world of Chinese historical dramas, few accessories are as iconic as the forehead ribbon, or mo’e (抹额). Recently featured in popular series like Fangs of Fortune (大梦归离) and The Untamed (陈情令), this simple yet elegant accessory has captured the imagination of audiences worldwide. But what is the story behind this ancient adornment, and how has it evolved over time? From its origins as a practical tool to its role as a symbol of identity and status, the mo’e offers a fascinating glimpse into Chinese cultural heritage. A Symbol of Identity and Utility The forehead ribbon has a rich history, serving both practical and symbolic purposes. Its earliest recorded use dates back to the Qin Dynasty (221–206 BCE), where it was employed as a military insignia. Known as junrong mo’e (军容抹额), these ribbons were part of the uniform worn by soldiers and ceremonial guards. They were often paired with specific attire, such as red robes and wide trousers, to denote rank and role. Historical texts, including The Chronicles of the Han Dynasty, describe how the mo’e became a standard feature of military dress, symbolizing discipline and order. For women, the forehead ribbon had a more utilitarian function. During the…...

In the world of ancient Chinese jewelry, few pieces have captured the imagination of modern enthusiasts quite like the so-called "Moth Crown" attributed to Li Jingxun (李静训), a young noblewoman from the Sui Dynasty. However, recent scholarly insights reveal that this exquisite artifact is not a crown at all, but a hairpin—a detail that has been overlooked in popular reproductions and adaptations. This revelation not only corrects a historical misconception but also deepens our appreciation for the intricate craftsmanship and cultural significance of this remarkable piece. The Misidentified "Crown" The hairpin, often mistaken for a crown, is a stunning example of Tang Dynasty jewelry. It belongs to the category of buyao (步摇, step-shaking ornaments), which were designed to sway gently with the wearer’s movements. Shen Congwen (沈从文), in his seminal work Research on Ancient Chinese Clothing (中国古代服饰研究), refers to it as a "moth-and-flower hair ornament," (闹蛾儿扑花首饰) while archaeological reports describe it simply as a "hair accessory." The confusion likely stems from the fact that most images of the artifact show only a partial view, leading many to assume it was a crown. However, crowns typically have a base structure, which this piece lacks. Instead, it is a multi-pronged hairpin, a…...

In recent years, intricate half-face masks have become a popular accessory in historical dramas, leaving many viewers wondering: how did these delicate ornaments stay securely on the wearer’s face? The answer lies in the ingenious design of ancient Chinese masks, which have evolved over millennia, blending functionality with artistry. These masks, far from being mere decorative items, hold deep cultural significance and offer a fascinating glimpse into China’s rich heritage. The Mechanics of Ancient Masks At first glance, these masks appear to float effortlessly on the face, but a closer look reveals their practical design. Typically, they are secured by ties at the sides, fastened at the back of the head. A subtle groove along the nose bridge ensures the mask stays in place, preventing it from slipping. This clever combination of ties and structural support allowed wearers to move freely without fear of their masks falling off. A Legacy of Mystery: Masks in Ancient China While some might associate such masks with Western traditions, China boasts a long history of intricate mask-making, dating back to the Shang and Zhou dynasties. The most iconic examples come from the Sanxingdui and Jinsha archaeological sites, where gold and bronze masks were unearthed.…...

The Song Dynasty (960–1279 AD) is often romanticized for its elegance and sophistication, particularly in fashion. One of the most iconic beauty trends of the era was the "pearl makeup," where women adorned their faces with tiny pearls. But did the number and placement of these pearls signify social status or rank? The answer, surprisingly, is no. Pearl Makeup: A Universal Trend Contrary to popular belief, the use of pearls in makeup during the Song Dynasty was not regulated by social hierarchy. While the imperial court had strict rules for official attire and ceremonial dress—such as the number of dragons or phoenixes embroidered on robes—there were no such guidelines for pearl makeup. Pearls were a universal fashion statement, embraced by women across all social strata. The pearls were typically applied to specific areas of the face: between the eyebrows, along the temples, and on the cheeks. These placements were not arbitrary but followed aesthetic principles that highlighted the natural contours of the face. However, the number of pearls used was entirely a matter of personal preference and financial means, not rank. Pearls as a Symbol of Wealth While the number of pearls did not denote social status, their abundance often…...

In the historical drama Sijin (似锦), actress Jing Tian (景甜) has been spotted wearing the same hairstyle repeatedly, with only minor changes in accessories. This has sparked a wave of online commentary, with fans jokingly asking, “Is this hairstyle permanently glued to her head?” But what is the story behind this iconic look, and why has it become such a staple in Chinese historical dramas? The Origins of the Double-Ring Immortal Chignon The hairstyle in question is known as the shuanghuan wangxian ji (双鬟望仙髻), or “Double-Ring Immortal Chignon.” It evolved from the simpler shuanghuan ji (双环髻), a traditional hairstyle for young girls. Over time, its ethereal beauty made it a favorite in depictions of celestial beings and noblewomen, earning it a place in classical Chinese art and literature. For instance, the Admonitions of the Nymph of the Luo River (洛神赋图) and the Eighty-Seven Immortals Scroll (八十七神仙卷) both feature this hairstyle, cementing its association with grace and divinity. Its popularity in art and culture has made it a timeless choice for characters who embody elegance and otherworldly charm. A Hairstyle Through the Ages The Double-Ring Immortal Chignon has undergone several transformations throughout history. During the Wei, Jin, and Southern and Northern…...

During my short trip home for the Lunar New Year, I found myself feeling an unexpected sense of jealousy—toward rice cake. My hometown lies in central Anhui, historically known as Qianchuan, now part of Hefei. Administrative divisions have shifted over time, but the taste of rice cake has remained unchanged. Since the Zhou Dynasty, glutinous rice products have played a crucial role in daily meals, festivals, and even religious offerings. As a result, rice cake has been known by various names, such as Gao, Er, Ci, and Ba (糕、饵、糍、粑). In my hometown, however, it is affectionately called Baba (粑粑), a soft-sounding name, as if calling out to a beloved child. At this moment, a basin of baba is lazily soaking in clear water, stretching out as if in relaxation. This is the traditional way of preserving rice cake in the Yangtze River Delta during winter—submerging it in water. A clay vat, a bucket, or an enamel basin can all serve as containers, requiring only occasional water changes to keep the rice cake fresh throughout the season. Since my bedroom faces north, making it cool enough, the washbasin of rice cake has, by default, become my new "roommate." "So… I'm supposed…...