NEWHANFU

Historical Cdramas like 'Qing Ping Yue' and 'Da Feng Da Geng Ren' have showcased authentic children's hairstyles, moving away from the trend of simply shrinking adult styles. This shift highlights that ancient Chinese children, much like their modern counterparts, had their own distinctive looks tailored to their age. Previously, it was common to see ten-year-olds in period dramas styled as miniature adults—boys with tied-up hair and crowns, girls with elaborate buns and hairpins. However, this portrayal is historically inaccurate. In ancient China, adulthood was marked by ceremonies: the Ji Ji Li (及笄礼) for girls around age 15 and the Ruo Guan Li (弱冠礼) for boys around 20. Before these rites, hairstyle options were limited, with the most common being the 'Zong Jiao' (总角), or 'horned hair'. Zong Jiao: A Broad Term Zong Jiao is a broad term referring to the hairstyles of children aged 7 to 15. This period was poetically called the 'Zong Jiao Years,' and childhood friendships were termed 'Zong Jiao friendships.' The 'Jiao' refers to small topknots, specifically the hair tied on either side of a child's head, distinct from the loose 'Chui Tiao' (垂髫) of early childhood or the formal buns of adults. Narrow Definition of…...

During the Song Dynasty, pearl embellishments were a widespread fashion trend, but contrary to popular belief, the number and placement of pearls did not signify social status or rank. While official attire for noblewomen and imperial consorts had strict regulations regarding patterns and motifs—such as the number of dragons or phoenixes on headdresses—pearl adornments were never subject to such hierarchical rules. Online claims suggesting that the quantity of pearls indicated one's rank are simply unfounded interpretations. Pearls were a universal fashion statement. Even the empress wouldn’t cover her entire face in pearls, as there were only a few suitable spots for application: between the eyebrows, from the corners of the eyes to the temples, and on the dimples. Though the number of pearls didn’t reflect social rank, using more pearls naturally hinted at a wealthier background. Affluent families didn’t just wear pearls on their faces or as jewelry; they also embellished collars, cuffs, carpets, and even furniture with pearls, turning them into a ubiquitous decorative element. One popular style was the 'Zhuluo' (珠络), where pearls were sewn along collars, hems, and seams to accentuate the wearer’s status. Princesses’ dowries included pearl-adorned formal gowns and long coats, as well as 'Pearl…...

South Korea has recently introduced a new initiative to promote its traditional attire, Hanbok, by designating the last Wednesday of every month as 'Hanbok Day.' This move has sparked discussions online, with some netizens humorously commenting, 'They're really in a hurry!' The initiative is part of a broader plan to revitalize traditional cultural industries, as outlined by the Ministry of Culture, Sports, and Tourism. Under this plan, public officials and employees of government agencies are encouraged to wear Hanbok on the designated day. Additionally, specific national holidays and commemorative days, such as Independence Movement Day and Hangul Day, will now have Hanbok as the recommended attire. To further promote Hanbok, museums, art galleries, and overseas cultural centers will adopt it as the uniform for their staff. The government has also established the third week of October as 'Hanbok Culture Week' to encourage wider participation. This initiative comes amid growing interest in traditional attire across East Asia, including discussions in China about establishing a 'Hanfu Day' to celebrate traditional Han Chinese clothing. While South Korea's efforts are comprehensive, covering official support, public participation, and cultural promotion, the debate continues on how best to preserve and promote traditional garments in modern society.…...

In the ancient costume drama 'The National Beauty and Fragrance,' these two grand wedding crowns have sparked much discussion, primarily due to their extravagance and intricate details. From a cultural relic perspective, they seem to reference certain prototypes, appearing quite authentic at first glance. However, upon closer inspection, something feels off. Why is that? Previously, we discussed the 'sky-high' crown of Princess Xianzhu, Li Chui. For those interested, you can refer to another article. Today, we’ll focus on the crown worn by Yang Zi’s character, He Weifang, during her wedding. It’s worth noting that the crowns in these dramas are becoming increasingly lavish. Interestingly, what’s referred to as a 'crown' here is more akin to a set of accessories in Tang Dynasty style. Let’s delve deeper. To start with a conclusion, this crown’s original prototype likely stems from the crown of Empress Xiao of the Sui Dynasty. Although it underwent some stylistic changes during the Sui and Tang Dynasties, it retained elements like hairpins (Chaidian) and side ornaments (Bobin) as markers of status. Regardless of these changes, the number of Bobin and floral decorations (Huashu or Huadian) was still determined by the rank of noblewomen or female officials. According to…...

Recently, baby hair bangs have made a reappearance in historical dramas. While these bangs can help contour the face, they often seem out of place in classical settings. Historically, adult women in ancient China did not wear bangs, as they were considered a transitional hairstyle for children whose hair had not fully grown. Upon reaching adulthood, women would style their hair neatly using traditional hair products like "paohua shui" (刨花水), emphasizing elegance and sophistication. Although baby hair or air bangs may appear more natural compared to other fringe styles, they still disrupt the authenticity of classical aesthetics. This article focuses solely on the appropriateness of bangs in historical contexts, not on personal appearances. Retaining baby hair bangs can make a character look immature. For instance, actress Ju Jingyi (鞠婧祎) was often criticized for her unchanging baby hair bangs, but her recent updos have showcased a more mature and classical demeanor. In the drama "The Purple Hairpin," the inclusion of such bangs felt particularly jarring amidst otherwise historically accurate hairstyles. Conversely, in "The Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival," Zhang Xinyu's (张馨予) noblewoman look without bangs exuded grandeur. The no - bangs style cleverly utilized "yunbin" (云鬓), a classical hairstyle from the…...

Recent photos of actress Chen Duling wearing an elaborate phoenix crown hairstyle have ignited online discussions about the differences between Ming and Qing dynasty headwear traditions. While many praised the aesthetic, others questioned whether the design leaned too heavily toward Qing influences. Key Distinctions Between Ming and Qing Phoenix Crowns: 1. Structure: Ming crowns typically featured full - coverage designs, whereas Qing crowns (especially post - mid - Qing) often showed partial coverage or hybrid styles like the flattened Dianzi (钿子) hairpieces. 2. Ornamentation Patterns: Ming crowns followed strict hierarchical rules with symbolic arrangements of dragons (gold wirework) and phoenixes (kingfisher feather inlays). Qing designs displayed more eclectic combinations of decorative elements. 3. Hanging Decorations: Ming pieces used pearl/malachite beaded 'tassels' (挑牌) on sides, while Qing versions developed dramatic front/side pearl curtains (珠帘) that eventually obscured the face in late - Qing fashion. 4. Cultural Accessibility: Ming crowns remained exclusive to noblewomen, but Qing versions became accessible to wealthy commoners, explaining why more Qing - era examples survive today. Only four intact Ming crowns exist, all housed in Beijing museums. Historical Context: The Qing Dianzi evolved from early 'head wrapping' styles, featuring decorative hairpin flowers on semi/fully - covered bases.…...

The Large-sleeved shirt, known as "Da Xiu Shan" in Chinese, was a prominent aristocratic attire during the mid to late Tang Dynasty. This garment is often associated with the famous painting "Court Ladies Wearing Flowered Headdresses" by Zhou Fang, which vividly depicts noblewomen adorned in ankle-length skirts paired with sheer, large-sleeved gauze shirts that delicately cover their shoulders and arms. The artist's realistic portrayal not only captures the transparency of Tang fabrics but also the softness of the women's skin. This style persisted until the late Ming Dynasty, often paired with a ceremonial cape, and was alternatively called "Da Xiu" or "Da Shan." During the High Tang period, the influence of Hu (nomadic) clothing waned, and women's fashion gradually embraced wider sleeves. By the mid to late Tang era, sleeves often exceeded four feet in width. The attire typically included a wide-sleeved cross-collared shirt, long skirt, and a draped shawl, reserved for significant occasions like court appearances, ceremonies, and weddings. Adorned with golden hairpins and floral decorations, it was also referred to as "Floral Hairpin Large-Sleeved Shirt." Zhou Fang's painting, now housed in the Liaoning Provincial Museum, illustrates noblewomen leisurely strolling through gardens, picking flowers, and playing with butterflies. Their…...

The traditional chest wrap dress, once a staple in early historical dramas and photo studios, has become increasingly rare in contemporary films and TV shows. Why is this the case? Let's start with the conclusion. Many people refer to it as the "Hezi dress." Today, there are numerous choices when it comes to clothing styles and patterns, so there's no need to obsess over controversial designs like the Hezi dress. Absence of Physical Evidence First, there is no physical evidence to confirm the exact style of the Hezi dress. Its existence is only hinted at in literature, particularly through mentions of its key component, the "Hezi." Second, the most famous depiction of the "Hezi dress" is in Zhou Fang's painting "Court Ladies Wearing Flowered Headdresses," which is believed to date back to the Five Dynasties period. The term "Hezi dress" is a modern invention, as it does not appear in historical records. Although "The Complete Collection of Chinese Textiles and Costumes" mentions the long wrap dress worn by women in the painting, paired with a thin gauze robe, it does not refer to it as the "Hezi dress." Historical Origins of Hezi The Hezi dress was once a popular representation…...

Fox masks, once a common sight in Chinese historical dramas, have become a symbol of cultural appropriation, often replacing authentic Chinese designs with Japanese-inspired versions. But why has this iconic element faded from our screens? The Root of Fox Imagery in Chinese Culture Long before the Han Dynasty, fox imagery was deeply rooted in Chinese culture. The mystical nine - tailed fox (Jiǔwěihú, 九尾狐), first recorded in the "Classic of Mountains and Seas," symbolized prosperity and fertility. Legends tell of Yu the Great encountering a white fox at Mount Tu, interpreted as an auspicious sign leading to his marriage. In Han mythology, the nine - tailed fox and three - legged crow served as divine messengers under the Queen Mother of the West. The Origin of Traditional Chinese Masks Traditional Chinese masks, known as Nuómiàn (傩面), originated in ritual exorcism ceremonies. During the Zhou Dynasty, Fangxiangshi exorcists wore terrifying bear - skin costumes and golden - eyed masks to ward off evil spirits during New Year celebrations. These masks typically featured exaggerated or mythological designs, distinct from the delicate Japanese fox masks. The Transformation of Fox Symbolism While foxes were initially revered as auspicious creatures in China, their image gradually…...

In the Korean drama 'Won Kyung,' Queen Won Kyung is seen wearing a full set of Zhaiyi (翟衣), along with a Yanju crown (燕居冠) adorned with Bobin (博鬓), which is typically reserved for empresses or crown princesses. Observant viewers might find this attire familiar. In recent years, Zhaiyi has frequently appeared in Chinese historical dramas set in the Song and Ming dynasties, largely because well - preserved portraits of empresses from these periods provide ample reference material. The 'Zhai' in Zhaiyi refers to the Zhai pattern (翟纹), which features the Chinese pheasant (红腹锦鸡), a bird native to China with vividly colored feathers described as 'red with five hues.' The pattern consists of twelve pairs of pheasants arranged in rows, interspersed with small floral motifs called 'Xiaolunhua' (小轮花) in the Ming dynasty. The headdress also follows a strict hierarchy: the phoenix crown (凤冠) with Bobin is the highest rank, paired with Zhaiyi, while the Yanju crown (with Bobin) is worn with a yellow Dasha (大衫) and Xiapei (霞帔). Noblewomen's Zhai crowns are paired with red Dasha and matching Xiapei. Why does Zhaiyi appear in Korean dramas? The 'Goryeo History' records that Empress Xiaoci of the Ming dynasty once bestowed Zhaiyi upon…...