NEWHANFU

Isn't It Uncomfortable? In period dramas, we often see these hard pillows. Even in museums, most pillow artifacts are made of wood or ceramic, making one wonder if they were truly this uncomfortable. The answer is that ancient pillows came in various forms, including silk, cloth, ceramic, wood, and even jade. However, softer pillows like silk or cloth ones didn’t preserve as well, so most surviving artifacts today are hard pillows. The Chinese character for 'pillow' (枕) has a 'wood' radical, suggesting that early pillows were primarily made of materials like wood or dried grass. The ancient text 'Shuowen Jiezi' defines a pillow as 'a support for the head during rest.' Some also used stones as pillows, especially in hot summers, as the coolness could relieve discomfort. As living standards improved, pillows diversified. For example, a silk pillow was unearthed from the Han Dynasty Mawangdui Tomb—a soft pillow! This rectangular pillow, embroidered with 'longevity patterns,' was stuffed with Eupatorium leaves, known for their aromatic and medicinal properties. The pillow’s ends were adorned with raised brocade, and its sides featured fragrant silk embroidery. This wasn’t just a silk pillow but also a medicinal one, proving that nobles had access to soft…...

Whether watching period dramas or wearing traditional Hanfu, the topic of posture often brings up sloping shoulders, with Liu Yifei being a classic example. So, does classical aesthetics truly equate to sloping shoulders? A recent article on Ming Dynasty undergarments sparked a lengthy debate about the classical aesthetics of sloping versus square shoulders. Today, let’s dive into this discussion. First, the conclusion: Are square shoulders unsuitable for classical attire? Not necessarily. Traditional clothing’s flat - cut structure naturally accommodates the shoulders, creating a softened, secondary shape. The discomfort or visual awkwardness some perceive often stems from posture—some people unconsciously stiffen their shoulders when puffing their chests, while extreme thinness can disrupt visual balance, making the clothes appear oversized. Another factor is tailoring. Many period dramas incorporate structured cuts at the shoulder seams, leading to a constrained look. Style Comparison Hanfu’s flat - cut design allows extra fabric at the shoulder area, creating a graceful curve that enhances the upper body’s fullness and grandeur. While flat - cutting dominates, traditional Hanfu also includes localized structured adjustments like inset panels or darts. However, many period dramas, despite appearing flat - cut, use structured shoulder seams for a modern, fitted look. This results…...

Sometimes, it feels awkward to see characters in TV dramas wearing large - sleeved outfits for outings, meals, dates, fights, or even sleeping. Were ancient clothes really all about big sleeves? How inconvenient would it be to use the restroom? Are historical drama sleeves getting even larger these days? One netizen joked: 'So big you could fit a person inside!' Let's get straight to the point. While we often describe Hanfu as 'wide robes and large sleeves', it's important to note that this is a characteristic of formal Hanfu, used to show the wearer's social status, like the historical Dashu Shan (大袖衫) or Gongfu (公服). People rarely wore such exaggerated sleeves outside ceremonial occasions. Let's break down Hanfu sleeve styles. There are many suitable for daily life. Narrow sleeves are practical for labor or martial arts; Chuihu sleeves (垂胡袖), Pipa sleeves (琵琶袖), and straight sleeves are for non - labor daily wear; short sleeves can be casual outer layers or summer homewear. For example, the Quju (曲裾) and Zhiju (直裾) unlined gauze robes, common in the Western Han Dynasty, had sleeve openings around 29 cm wide. Modern fashion sleeves average 10 cm, with looser ones at 15 cm. So, 30…...

Women understand women best. The cheongsam girls in her paintings are well - known internationally! The second installment of the cheongsam series by the artist has arrived. In the previous issue, we mainly talked about the female cheongsam moments painted by male painters. Today, let's discuss how female painters shape female beauty, and what different perspectives and presentations they have from male aesthetics. The painter we're going to talk about today has a special background and an amazing story. Her name is Pan Yuliang (潘玉良). Born on June 14, 1895, in Yangzhou, Jiangsu, and from Tongcheng, Anhui, formerly named Chen Xiuqing and also known as Zhang Yuliang, with the courtesy name Shixiu, she is a modern Chinese painter, sculptor, and art educator. Dramatic Life Before talking about her works, let's briefly learn about Pan Yuliang's story. She was born into a very poor family in Yangzhou. She lost her father at one year old, her sister at two, and her mother when she was eight. An eight - year - old girl faced the problem of survival. Orphaned Pan Yuliang was first adopted by her uncle. Unfortunately, at the age of 13, her gambling - addicted uncle sold her to…...

In the Cdrama When the Wild Geese Return, Chen Duling's post - marriage hairstyle surprised viewers: 'Why is this married hairstyle so odd? The ends just stick straight up!' In fact, this is the Sanlvtou (三绺头), a style popular among Han women in the late Ming Dynasty. The hairstyle features a 'wild goose tail' at the back, looking more dignified and steady. The Sanlvtou divides the hair into three sections: front, middle, and back. Each section is braided and gathered in a distinct way, thus getting the name 'Sanlvtou'. However, this hair - combing method can be traced back even earlier. For example, in the second act of The Box of Toiletries by an anonymous writer of the Yuan Dynasty, there is a line: 'Who would have thought that Kou Chengyu, a woman with the Sanlvtou hairstyle and two - piece clothing, has such loyalty.' Specifically, the Sanlvtou has two side strands called 'Lvebin (掠鬓)'. They frame the face like delicate clouds or cicada wings, so they are also poetically named 'Cloud - Like Hair' or 'Cicada - Wing Hair'. The front section of hair can be swept back, laid flat, or slightly raised, then tied with a red ribbon…...

Too Ahead of Its Time! In the period drama When the Wild Geese Return, the character Zhuang Yushan, the second young miss, often appears in a pink puffy dress. People wonder if ruffled dresses existed in the Ming Dynasty, finding it incredibly fashionable. Let’s start with the conclusion. This style is called Tieli, and a similar one is Yesa. Both were influenced by Yuan - Mongol styles and were popular during the Ming Dynasty. Yesa and Tieli are quite alike, but the most obvious difference is that Yesa has a smooth front panel like a horse - face pleat, while Tieli is fully ruffled. According to Ming Palace History, 'Yesa has an unbroken back panel with side pleats and a front panel divided into two sections with horse - face pleats extending outward.' These styles were mainly men's wear, and women usually wore them for cross - dressing. Does it sound familiar? The once - popular 'Feiyu Fu' (Flying Fish Robe) in dramas, paired with the imposing Xiuchun Dao, is actually this style. 'Feiyu' refers to the pattern, which resembles a python but has a fish tail. Common 'Feiyu Fu' includes both Tieli and Yesa styles. Yesa not only has…...

In the ancient - costumed drama When the Wild Goose Returns, the entrance scene of Concubine Miao is truly impressive. That bright red robe and the hair ornaments... Isn't it like a flashback to the scene of Princess Yuan's return to her natal family in A Dream of Red Mansions? Of course, it's the elegance of our country! A similar scene was also seen when Meng Ziyi got married in Purple in the Ninth Heaven, just with different patterns (kirin patterns). Who says Ming - style clothing is only low - key and luxurious? The grandeur of Ming - style formal dresses can be highly praised. First, let's conclude. What the imperial concubine wore was the "Python Robe" decorated with python patterns, a round - collared long gown style, with a standing - collared jacket inside, hairpins and hair ornaments on the head, and a horse - faced skirt below. This outfit is quite solemn and is a relatively high - level formal dress for noblewomen. No wonder some netizens said: This is not just an ordinary entrance of an imperial concubine. It seems like an "enthronement"! The "Python Robe" can be worn by both men and women. As a…...

In the period drama When the Wild Geese Return, Chen Duling's character Zhuang Hanyan wore white at her coming-of-age ceremony, sparking online discussions: 'Isn't this inauspicious?' Actually, ancient Chinese society wasn't overly sensitive to wearing white. The misconception arises from its association with mourning attire, but mourning clothes were made of undyed hemp with a yellowish tint, and their colors varied due to different materials. In fact, white was sometimes worn during festivals, and it was more 'prestigious' than people think. Some online claims that the character wore white as a symbol of revenge are overinterpretations. Here's a quick overview of historical contexts for wearing 'white' in ancient China: White was one of the five traditional colors. Huainanzi states, 'When white is established, the five colors are complete,' highlighting its fundamental role. However, ancient Chinese white wasn't pure white by modern standards. Mourning garments were made of natural hemp, which was yellowish. Commoners' everyday work - wear was also undyed as dyes were costly, making plain fabrics practical. During the Sui dynasty, officials above the fifth rank wore purple; those below wore red or green; clerks wore blue; commoners wore white; butchers and merchants wore black; soldiers wore yellow. In…...

Ju Jingyi: Who Knew a Shoulder Strap Could Be So Versatile? Recently, a behind - the - scenes photo of Ju Jingyi in a drama role surfaced online. She wore a cross - collar dress with a strap tied around her shoulder, paired with a headscarf and a Panbo (襻膊), instantly evoking the imagery of a farming - themed story. Netizens were amazed: 'Who knew the Panbo could serve this purpose too?' In ancient times, a simple rope could solve many problems, especially in labor - intensive settings. For example, the Panbo was used to roll up oversized sleeves, a waistband kept skirts from unraveling, and wrist wraps secured sleeves during martial arts practice. Now, it has a new role: a must - have accessory for the 'farming heroine' aesthetic. Adding a strap not only creates layers in the outfit but also enhances approachability. The Panbo, specifically designed for rolling up sleeves, was commercialized during the Song Dynasty. Shen Congwen noted in Research on Ancient Chinese Clothing that Song laborers often tied their sleeves with ropes around their necks to keep them rolled up, officially termed 'Panbo'er'. Zhou Mi's Old Stories of Wulin·Small Businesses also listed 'Panbo'er' among street vendors'…...

Some attentive netizens noticed: Why does Chen Duling's corset in When the Wild Geese Return have a front opening? What's the purpose of the split - like opening? Let's get to the point. In fact, front - opening corsets like this existed as early as the Ming Dynasty, known as Zhuyao (主腰). They were quite popular during the Yuan and Ming periods and were also called Hehuanjin (合欢襟). Their most distinctive feature was the front - opening, which could be fastened with ties or buttons. Some people also referred to Ming - Dynasty undergarments as Zhuyao instead of Moxiong (抹胸), just a matter of terminology. Artifacts show this style could have shoulder straps or not, and the straps could be crossed or parallel. Those without shoulder straps could still be categorized as Moxiong. Common Moxiong during the Song and Ming Dynasties were usually one - piece wraparound styles with ties, while Zhuyao had a front - opening design. This one - piece Moxiong was a long strip of cloth with ties on both sides, often gathered in the middle. It was a classic Hanfu undergarment and remained popular for a long time. In some regions, it was used as a…...