NEWHANFU

To create a traditional horse-face skirt is to converse with centuries of artisans. This process, honed during the Ming Dynasty and refined in the Qing era, transforms raw fabric into a cultural statement. Far from a simple garment, each skirt embodies calculated geometry, symbolic motifs, and generational wisdom—a wearable archive of Chinese craftsmanship. Material Selection Traditional skirts begin with fabric choices steeped in regional logic. Ming artisans preferred luo silk, a lightweight yet durable weave that allowed pleats to hold their shape without stiffness—ideal for Jiangnan’s humid climate. Qing tailors often opted for kesi tapestry silk for outer panels, its slit-tapestry technique enabling photorealistic embroidery. Modern recreations face ethical dilemmas: while purists source wild mulberry silk from historic Zhejiang farms, eco-conscious brands like Vermillion Phoenix now use organic hemp dyed with tea leaves to mimic antique hues. Pattern Drafting: Geometry in Service of Grace The four-panel template follows strict proportional rules. A typical Ming skirt for a woman of 165cm height requires: Two outer panels: 50cm wide x 105cm long Two inner panels: 30cm wide x 105cm long Waistband: 8cm wide x 110cm (allowing overlap) Historic pattern books like the Yuanyang Pu (1627) reveal secret adjustments: a 3° outward flare on outer panels to enhance the “horse face”…...

In Chinese historical dramas, celestial beings and noblewomen are often depicted wearing exquisite arm accessories. These ornaments, known as 'Bi Huan' (臂环) or 'Bi Chuan' (臂钏), are not exclusive to deities but were also popular among the aristocracy, especially during the Tang Dynasty. The 'Bi Huan' is a type of bracelet worn on the upper arm, crafted from materials like gold, silver, jade, and glass. One notable example is the Tang Dynasty gold - inlaid jade arm ring unearthed from the Hejia Village Hoard, now displayed at the Shaanxi History Museum. This artifact consists of three curved white jade segments connected by gold animal - head hinges, showcasing exceptional craftsmanship. Historically, 'Bi Chuan' dates back to the Warring States period and became a symbol of wealth and status during the Tang and Song Dynasties. It was even included as part of the 'Three Golds' in betrothal gifts. In Buddhist art, similar arm rings are seen adorning Bodhisattva statues, highlighting their spiritual significance. Contrary to the misconception that these arm rings were difficult to wear, ancient designs often featured adjustable openings, making them practical for daily use. They could be worn singly or in pairs, with multi - loop versions called…...

Is the widespread criticism of contemporary historical dramas a sign that people are awakening to Eastern aesthetics? What defines modern popular aesthetics? Think smoky eyes, heavy makeup, long lashes, sharp chins, tiny noses, glossy lips, A4 waists, enhanced busts, and body - hugging dresses. This pursuit of perfection often comes at the cost of individuality. When you're steeped in these standards, you might scoff at the classic "pearl - like" Chinese beauty, calling it a "big plate," or urge someone with a fuller figure to lose weight. Modern aesthetics act like a cage, dissecting every part of you with rigid symbols, fueling anxiety and clouding self - perception. As these fleeting "trends" wash over us, culture becomes a set of stereotypes, eroding our ability to appreciate beauty on our own terms. But this isn't a lasting majority. Many are already tired of the "snake - like" face trend, proving these are short - lived fads that don't touch the core. Take Hanfu, for example. Beyond its structure, we admire its colors, patterns, and the stories behind it—the weight of its layered collars, the flow of its long skirts, its inclusivity for all body types, empowering women of diverse shapes to…...

In period dramas and ancient-style photography, cloaks are a common sight, but did you know they are actually a modern hybrid of Chinese and Western influences? The traditional Chinese cloak, known as 'Dou Peng,' typically consists of a separate hood and outer garment. The cloak itself refers to the outer layer, possibly derived from the design of straw raincoats (Suoyi). This separation allows for versatility—wearing just the cloak for warmth or pairing it with a hood in harsh weather. The hood, called 'Feng Mao' or 'Guanyin Dou,' serves its own practical purpose. Illustrations from Sun Wen's 'Dream of the Red Chamber' depict cloaks without hoods: sleeveless, loose, ankle-length, with either no collar or a standing collar, and front panels that drape naturally. Some feature attached straps for ease of movement, worn draped over the shoulders. Resembling an upside-down ancient bell, these cloaks were also called 'Yi Kou Zhong' (一口钟) or 'Yi Guo Yuan' (一裹圆) during the Qing Dynasty and in modern academia. This design aligns with the cloaks seen in the 1987 adaptation of 'Dream of the Red Chamber,' where the hood and cloak are separate. Modern depictions of cloaks often blend early straw raincoats and bamboo hats (Douli). Some…...

The recent discussion on 'appearance anxiety' reminds me of the Tang Dynasty, a period that might offer some inspiration for those struggling with such concerns today. The Tang Dynasty was renowned for its inclusivity and openness, setting what could be considered the 'international beauty standard' of its time. Contrary to the common misconception that Tang women were simply 'plump,' their beauty was more about robust health and fullness. From the slender figures of the early Tang to the more voluptuous forms of its peak, ancient artworks depict a diverse range of body types, showcasing a true celebration of variety. Historical records, like the 'New Book of Tang: Biographies of Imperial Princesses,' describe figures such as Princess Taiping and Empress Wu Zetian with 'broad foreheads and wide cheeks'—features that starkly contrast with today's mainstream beauty ideals. Modern preferences lean towards narrow foreheads, low hairlines, large round eyes, and small faces, often labeling broader features as less desirable. Yet, the Tang aesthetic was rooted in health and confidence, where natural, unforced beauty reflected the dynasty's prosperity. Dunhuang murals further illustrate this, portraying female donors with double chins, visible neck lines, rounded faces, and even slight bellies—features that, while differing from Western ideals…...

In many Tang and Song dynasty dramas, you'll notice that almost every male character wears the same type of hat—the Futou. Whether they're high - ranking officials, low - level clerks, or military generals, the Futou is a common sight. This raises the question: was this hat really that ubiquitous in ancient China? The Futou, also known as the 'Zheshang Jin' (折上巾), was the most popular headwear for men during the Tang dynasty. It originated from a simple headscarf and evolved into two main styles: the 'soft wrap' and the 'hard wrap.' The soft wrap involved directly tying the cloth around the head, while the hard wrap used a base called 'Jinzi' (巾子) to create a more structured shape. The design of the Jinzi varied slightly over time. Historical records, such as Shen Kuo's 'Dream Pool Essays' from the Song dynasty, describe the Futou's tying method in detail. It involved four straps: two tied at the back, leaving two dangling, and the other two folded and tied at the top, giving it the nickname 'Zheshang Jin'. This style was particularly popular among military personnel, as noted in the 'Tang Huiyao.' Despite its widespread use, the Futou wasn't universal. Emperors wore…...

In recent years, costume dramas featuring Tang Dynasty aesthetics have surged in popularity. From the widely acclaimed "The Curse of the Pearl Screen" and "Strange Tales of the Tang Dynasty" to upcoming productions like "National Beauty and Fragrance" starring Yang Zi and Li Xian, "Midnight Return" with Tian Xiwei and Xu Kai, Liu Shishi's "Palm of the Hand," and the adaptation of Ma Boyong's novel "Lychees of Chang'an," the Tang Dynasty has become the go - to historical backdrop for filmmakers. The Tang Dynasty (618 - 907 AD) was a golden age of Chinese civilization, renowned for its cultural confidence and sartorial splendor. As historian Sun Ji noted in "Essays on Ancient Chinese Costumes," Tang noblewomen boldly embraced low - cut dresses that accentuated their beauty. The poet Ouyang Xun famously captured this aesthetic with the line: "Snow - white chests and flower - like faces." Shen Congwen's "History of Chinese Clothing" details how Tang women pioneered fashion trends. The popular "half - sleeve" jacket, worn over narrow - sleeved blouses, featured various collar styles and was tied with delicate ribbons across the chest. The pi (披帛), a long decorative scarf often made of sheer silk with intricate patterns, became…...

Zhao Lusi's latest Tang Dynasty-inspired look in 'Pearl Curtain and Jade Screen' has fans reminiscing about her iconic Le Yan (乐嫣) character from 'The Long Ballad' (长歌行). While both styles draw from the Tang Dynasty aesthetic, there are notable differences that showcase her versatility in portraying historical roles. Le Yan's Hairstyle in 'The Long Ballad' In 'The Long Ballad', Zhao's Le Yan character sported the classic 'Bunny Ear' hairstyle, known as Baiheji (百合髻) or Lily Bun. This double-bun style, often with a center part or crisscross design, was popular during Emperor Taizong's reign (627 - 649 AD). Historical records from Ma Gao's 'Notes of Past and Present China' describe it as one of the signature hairstyles of early Tang Dynasty, perfectly complementing Zhao's sweet and youthful appearance. Hairstyle in 'Pearl Curtain and Jade Screen' The 'Pearl Curtain and Jade Screen' presents a more mature interpretation of Tang fashion. Zhao's character wears a single bun hairstyle, reminiscent of the Qiu Ji (囚髻) or Prisoner's Bun popular in mid - late Tang Dynasty. The styling features thinner, more voluminous sideburns creating a 'Chan Bin' (蝉鬓) or Cicada Wing effect - a delicate framing technique that mimics the transparency of cicada wings using…...

We all know that ancient Chinese used umbrellas on rainy days, but did they also use them for sun protection on sunny days? In historical dramas, oil-paper umbrellas are no longer just for rain but have become props to create an aesthetic atmosphere. They are often seen in scenes where the protagonist walks slowly under a bright sun with an oil-paper umbrella. While beautiful, these umbrellas are made of paper—can they withstand prolonged exposure to sunlight? The answer is simple: ancient Chinese were clever. While oil-paper umbrellas weren’t practical for sunny days, they had other types of umbrellas specifically designed for sun protection. For example, during the Western Zhou Dynasty, umbrellas made of silk (bo) were used, though their primary purpose wasn’t sun protection but to signify noble status. The Northern Qi Dynasty had strict regulations: kings and high-ranking officials used purple umbrellas with pheasant tail decorations, while lower-ranking officials and scholars used blue umbrellas with green linings. The "Yuxie" records that during the Wei Dynasty, people invented oil-paper umbrellas by splitting bamboo and coating paper with oil for daily convenience. During the Qin and Han Dynasties, elaborate canopies (huagai) became popular. The painted bronze chariot unearthed from the Mausoleum…...

In ancient China, a unique fashion trend emerged where women adorned their heads with bird - shaped crowns. This practice, which might seem extravagant today, was quite popular among the nobility and performers during various dynasties. The tradition of wearing bird crowns dates back to the Northern Qi Dynasty, as evidenced by murals in the Xu Xianxiu Tomb. By the Tang Dynasty, these crowns became a favorite among female dancers and attendants. Historical records, such as Tang Du You's 'Tongdian' and the 'New Book of Tang,' document performances where dancers wore bird crowns and colorful costumes to celebrate imperial achievements. Initially used by performers, bird crowns gradually gained popularity among the aristocracy. Crafted from gold and silver and embellished with precious stones, these crowns featured various birds like peacocks, phoenixes, parrots, and mynas. The Dunhuang murals frequently depict these ornate crowns, especially on princesses from Khotan and Uyghur, adorned with jade and dressed in luxurious robes. A notable example is a Tang Dynasty pottery figurine from the Jinxiang County Princess Tomb, wearing a peacock crown with vividly painted feathers. The phoenix crown held a special status, combining features of multiple birds, as described in Zhang Hua's 'Avian Classic.' Phoenix motifs…...