Guide & Tutorial

Peony Perfume Persists: The New Frontier of Scented Garments In the heart of China's Shandong province, a quiet revolution is taking place. The ancient city of Heze (菏泽), long renowned for its peonies, is now at the forefront of a technological breakthrough that's set to redefine the intersection of tradition and innovation in the world of fashion. At a recent women's handicraft exhibition, all eyes were drawn to an extraordinary display from Cao County, Heze. The star of the show? A skirt that seemed to bridge centuries, combining the timeless elegance of traditional Chinese hanfu with cutting-edge textile technology. This wasn't just any skirt - it was a garment woven from peony fibers, infused with a fragrance that could last for two years. Yao Chihang, the visionary behind the "Luo Ruyan" hanfu brand, beamed with pride as she explained the intricate process behind this marvel. "We've developed a new technique to extract fibers from peonies," she revealed. "During the weaving process, we embed the peony fragrance into the fabric itself, ensuring the scent remains for at least two years." This innovation isn't just a novelty; it's a testament to the potential of merging ancient craftsmanship with modern technology. The skirt itself…

Moonlit Memories: Preschoolers Celebrate Mid-Autumn Festival in Style In the quaint town of Chenqiao, Jiangsu Province, a heartwarming scene unfolded as the Mid-Autumn Festival approached. The local community came together to organize an enchanting event that blended age-old traditions with youthful enthusiasm, creating a magical experience for the town's youngest residents. The "Our Festival · Mid-Autumn Festival" event, jointly organized by various local institutions and the Wulishu Kindergarten, was more than just a celebration - it was a bridge connecting China's rich past with its vibrant future. As the children gathered, dressed in miniature hanfu and clutching handmade rabbit lanterns, they embodied the harmonious coexistence of tradition and modernity that defines contemporary China. The event kicked off with young party member volunteers weaving tales of the Mid-Autumn Festival's origins. Through a tapestry of stories, rhymes, and vivid imagery, they transported the children back in time, unraveling the mysteries of this ancient celebration. From moon-gazing to lantern riddles, the volunteers painted a vivid picture of traditional customs, instilling in the young minds a deep appreciation for their cultural heritage. But the real magic began when theory turned to practice. The DIY lantern-making session saw tiny hands busily at work, guided by…

From Classrooms to Weddings: Hanfu's Growing Presence in Everyday Life As the Mid-Autumn Festival approaches, a fascinating trend is sweeping across China - the rising popularity of hanfu, traditional Chinese clothing. This resurgence is more than just a fashion statement; it's a cultural phenomenon that's reshaping how modern Chinese, especially the younger generation, connect with their heritage. In recent years, hanfu has transcended its historical confines to become a vibrant part of contemporary Chinese life. From school performances and holiday photo-ops to Chinese-style weddings, the elegant silhouettes of hanfu are increasingly visible in everyday scenarios. This trend reflects a deeper shift in Chinese society - a growing appreciation for traditional culture and a burgeoning sense of cultural confidence among the youth. The numbers tell a compelling story. Some hanfu stores report a four to five-fold increase in customers, with students making up the majority of this surge. This isn't just a local phenomenon; the popularity of hanfu, particularly styles like the horse-face skirt, has even caught international attention. Li Fangguo (李方国), owner of a hanfu experience store, offers insight into this trend. His shop boasts over 500 sets of hanfu, ranging from styles of the Wei-Jin period to the Qing dynasty.…

From Niche to Billions: The Explosive Growth of Hanfu Industry In the heart of bustling Shanghai, amidst the gleaming skyscrapers and neon lights, a curious sight unfolds. A group of young professionals, dressed not in Western suits or casual wear, but in flowing robes with wide sleeves and intricate embroidery, make their way through a high-tech office park. This is not a historical reenactment or a costume party - it's a typical workday in 2024 China, where the ancient meets the ultramodern in a phenomenon known as the "Hanfu Renaissance." The resurgence of Hanfu, the traditional clothing of the Han Chinese, is more than just a fashion trend. It represents a seismic shift in cultural identity, economic opportunity, and national pride that is reshaping the landscape of modern China. What began as a niche interest among history enthusiasts has exploded into a multi-billion yuan industry, with ripple effects touching everything from tourism to technology. In 2023, the Hanfu market in China reached a staggering 14.47 billion yuan (approximately $2.24 billion USD), with projections suggesting it could nearly double to 24.18 billion yuan by 2027. This growth is not just in sales figures - the number of Hanfu-related businesses registered in…

Hanfu's Resurgence: A Symbol of Cultural Pride and National Confidence The recent surge in popularity of Hanfu, traditional Chinese clothing, has sparked both enthusiasm and debate across China. As more people don these garments for everyday wear and special occasions, questions arise about the authenticity of modern Hanfu and the cultural significance of this trend. Experts in costume history and market operators offer insights into this fascinating cultural phenomenon. Professor Huang Qiang, a distinguished scholar of costume history at Jiangsu Open University, provides a historical context for understanding Hanfu. He explains that traditional Chinese clothing has a rich history dating back to legendary figures like the Yellow Emperor, with each dynasty developing its own distinctive styles. From the deep-robed attire of the Qin and Han dynasties to the loose-fitting garments of the Wei and Jin periods, Chinese clothing has always reflected the aesthetics and social structures of its time. Importantly, Professor Huang distinguishes between the broad category of traditional Chinese clothing and the more specific concept of Hanfu as it's understood today. While traditional Chinese attire encompassed clothing worn by both Han Chinese and sinicized ethnic minorities throughout China's long history, modern Hanfu typically refers specifically to the clothing of…

Reviving Heritage: Caoxian's Journey to Cultural Prominence In the bustling districts of Caoxian, Shandong Province, a quiet revolution is underway, fueled by the resurgence of traditional Hanfu clothing. What was once a niche interest has blossomed into a booming industry that not only revitalizes cultural pride but also drives economic growth. This transformation is emblematic of Caoxian's innovative approach to integrating heritage with modern entrepreneurship, paving the way for sustainable development in rural China. From Tradition to Trend: The Hanfu Renaissance in Caoxian The story begins with the humble origins of Hanfu, ancient Chinese attire revived to captivate a new generation. Caoxian, historically renowned for its cultural richness, has become a nucleus for Hanfu production, drawing on centuries-old craftsmanship to meet contemporary demands. This resurgence has not only preserved traditional textile techniques but also introduced innovations like lightweight fabrics and modern designs, appealing to a diverse demographic across China and beyond. Cultural Confidence Driving Economic Expansion The success of Caoxian's Hanfu industry is not just about fashion; it's a testament to cultural confidence. As the market for Hanfu expands exponentially, local entrepreneurs are leveraging this cultural resurgence to propel economic growth. The shift from seasonal to year-round production has bolstered…

Nowadays, the Mamian skirt is increasingly integrated into our sight and life. Under such a trend, many people are eager to own their desired Mamian skirt. Let's follow Hanfu Shidai and take a look at the details to consider during the process of selecting and styling a Mamian skirt. 1 - Selection Stage Step 1: Size Firstly, choosing the right size that fits the body curves is crucial for the perfect outfit. Like a suit, a Mamian skirt can be chosen according to a size chart or customized. Whether you are selecting from a size chart or opting for customization, the main standards to measure are height, waist, and hips. These measurements will influence the choice of skirt length, waist length, and sweep circumference. If we choose to shop online, sellers often provide a size chart for customers to make their selection. By comparing the chart, you can choose according to your size information. If opting for customization, you can first provide the seller with your waist, hip, and height information for reference. Then, based on your needs, negotiate with the tailor to decide the width of the skirt door, the length of the skirt waist, and the skirt length. Generally,…

Have you mesmerized by the makeup of "A Journey to Love"? The beauty level is comparable to the grand award of Huadian in ancient costume dramas. BAZAAR brings you a look at the use of the Huadian in recent Chinese TV dramas and its history. As the chosen one of ancient times, Liu Shi Shi made a graceful appearance with a transcendent snow dance, dressed in a flowing red gown, with a graceful figure. The red of the Huadian between her eyebrows and the white of the snow complemented each other, making her as beautiful as a painting. After entering the palace, she abandoned her fierce killer aura and her presence became gentle and hazy. Her usual elegant attire, paired with the Huadian, exuded a cool and charming aura. The costume and makeup of other characters are also praiseworthy. He Lan Dou, who plays Princess Yang Ying, went from being overlooked to becoming the empress, and the appearance of the Huadian perfectly corresponded to her growth trajectory. Chen Xiao Yun's Huadian makeup in the role of noble consort Chu emanated a pure and captivating charm, making her beauty irresistible. Chen Du Ling, who caused a stir with her appearance, portrayed…

The Mamian skirt pattern, as a traditional cultural element, is leading a new trend in the fashion world today. Its unique design and patterns showcase the elegance and temperament of ancient Han women, while also incorporating elements of modern fashion, making it a highly regarded focus in the fashion industry. Let us explore the structure, content, and trends of the Mamian skirt pattern in the fashion world. 01 Diversified Material Innovations In modern fashion, designers have applied the Mamian skirt pattern to various materials such as silk, cotton, chiffon, and blended fabrics. The Mamian skirt exhibits diverse styles and characteristics through material innovation, combining vintage flavor with a contemporary sense of fashion. This diversified material innovation injects new vitality and fashion trends into the Mamian skirt pattern.   02 Innovative Styles and Diversification Modern designers have retained the traditional Mamian skirt's basic structure and introduced many innovations. For example, the Mamian skirt can be paired with other garments such as t-shirts, shirts, or jackets to create a unique fashion style. Additionally, the Mamian skirt pattern can be incorporated into accessories such as handbags, shoes, or jewelry, adding unique highlights to the overall look.   03 Perfect Fusion of Tradition and…

Recently, the new cdrama "Love Me, Love My Voice" starring Zhou Ye has been gaining popularity. Directed by Sha Weiqi, the drama features Tan Jianci and Zhou Ye as the lead actors, with Hou Wenyuan, Yang Zizi, Cao Enqi, and Chen Haolan in supporting roles. It premiered on November 30, 2023. Gu Sheng (played by Zhou Ye), a talented composer and university student, continues to strive for success in her music career. Her biggest wish is to collaborate with the renowned voice actor Mo Qingcheng (played by Tan Jianci). Unexpectedly, a chance encounter brings them together when Mo Qingcheng recites a recipe to her, stirring Gu Sheng's heartstrings. Ten years ago, Mo Qingcheng co-founded the Wanmei Dubbing Club with his friends, dedicating himself passionately to voice acting. He is also a cardiac surgeon, devoted to saving lives. Gu Sheng is invited to participate in a promotional event for her best friend Geng Xiaoxing's (played by Yang Zizi) company, which coincides with the tenth anniversary celebration of the Perfect Dubbing Club, bringing her closer to Mo Qingcheng once again. As Gu Sheng gradually gains fame, she faces doubts about her talent, but she remains true to herself, focusing on her work…

In the rich tapestry of Chinese history, traditional clothing is not just a matter of fabric and fashion; it's a vivid reflection of cultural values, social hierarchy, and artistic expression. Among these historical garments, the Hanfu Warring States Robe stands out as a symbol of elegance and a repository of stories from a time when China was divided yet culturally vibrant. This article delves into the mesmerizing world of the Hanfu Warring States Robe, a garment that encapsulates the essence of an era marked by turmoil, sophistication, and enduring legacies. In this journey through time, we will explore the origins and evolution of the Warring States Robe, its significance in the broader context of Hanfu and Chinese history, and how this ancient garment continues to influence modern fashion and cultural identity. Join us as we trace the golden threads of history, discovering the timeless elegance and profound symbolism embodied in the Warring States Robe.   What is Warring States robe? The Warring States robe, literally speaking, refers to the robes and garments from the late Eastern Zhou Dynasty and the Warring States period. The main reference for the current Warring States robe on the market is the cultural relics from…

Recently, the popularity of Mamian Qun (horse face skirt) shows no sign of waning. On November 23rd, at the opening night of VOGUE Forces of Fashion, Tong Yao's appearance in a Mamian Qun caught the attention of netizens. Mamian Qun are gradually integrating into our vision and lives. In light of this trend, I believe many people are eagerly longing to own a horse-face skirt, so let us follow the Hanfu Shidai explore the details to consider when selecting and styling a horse face skirt.   I. Selection Stage Step 1: Size First and foremost, a suitable size that fits and contours to the body curves is crucial for a perfect outfit. Similar to a suit, one can choose to follow the size chart or opt for made-to-measure when selecting a Mamian Qun. Whether based on the size chart or personalized tailoring, the primary measurements to consider are height, waist circumference, and hip circumference. These factors will influence the choice of skirt length, waist length, and hem circumference. If we choose to purchase online, merchants often provide a size chart for customers to make their selection. By referring to the table, one can choose accordingly based on their own size…

One of the most challenging seasons for dressing is undoubtedly autumn and winter. When facing cold weather, how can we cleverly match Hanfu or Han-style fashion, both beautiful and practical, without sacrificing warmth? In the ancient Chinese civilization, the ancients had already designed and paid attention to the colors, wearing methods, fabrics, and other aspects of winter clothing, forming a systematic traditional dress culture. Today, we can draw inspiration from the wisdom of our ancestors and skillfully apply it to modern winter Hanfu, adding a touch of classical elegance to the overall outfit. The most important secret about the color and wearing methods of ancient Chinese winter clothing is layering and matching from the inside out. If we take the five colors as the main palette, we generally follow the principle of darker on the outside and lighter on the inside or vice versa. Dark colors such as pomegranate red, deep purple, dark green, jet black, and yellowish brown are suitable for outerwear, while lighter colors such as rosy red, sky blue, emerald green, charcoal gray, and apricot yellow are suitable for the inner layers. If you want a more distinctive look, you can also choose more vibrant colors for…

Among the numerous garments of Hanfu, the most popular one is probably the Mamian skirt. As a clothing item full of ethnic style, the skirt is characterized by vibrant colors and unique patterns. Wearing it seems like traveling through time and experiencing the charm of traditional culture. In fact, the Mamian skirt is not a completely new design, its history can be traced back to a hundred years ago. Also known as Mamian pleated skirt, it was one of the main skirt styles for ancient Chinese women. It consists of four skirt doors, both front and back, overlapping in pairs. The outer skirt door is adorned with decorations, while the inner skirt door has fewer or no decorations. The Ma Mian Qun is pleated on the side, and the skirt waist is often made of white fabric, symbolizing a lifelong union. It is fastened with a rope or button. The design of the Mamian skirt highlights symmetry and streamlined shapes, emphasizing the curves of women and creating an elegant and dignified image for the wearer. The charm of the Mamian skirt has actually transcended national borders. At the banquet where Princess Diana was announced as the future royal bride in…

Without a doubt, China has some of the most convenient and effective skincare culture and products in the beauty industry. Just like AKT’s eco-friendly deodorant collection, traditional Chinese beauty products are made from ingredients straight from the bosoms of Mother Nature. Because China is rich in culture, many of their skincare practices date back to centuries ago and the routines we adopt can be traced back to them. Their beauty rituals have been passed down through generations like an heirloom. So, if you want to have flawless glass-like skin like the Chinese, we’ll let you in on some of their beauty secrets. 1. Jade Rollers and Gua Sha Stone for Face Sculpting Face sculpting is one of China’s oldest beauty practices. Jade rollers and Gua Sha stones were used to target acupuncture points and allow for better blood circulation. But it goes way deeper than that. In China, having a v-shaped or egg-shaped chin is the beauty standard. So, people use jade rollers and the gua sha stone as face sculpting tools that also help with lymphatic drainage. To them, a less puffy face is more attractive than full lips and doe eyes. Today, these face-sculpting tools are used all…

Hello hanfu lovers! Remember last year where I went to a fantasy festival dressed in Han dynasty hanfu? Of course you don't, here is the article. I did it again this year. With another hanfu from another dynasty. So every year there is this huge festival in the North of France on the 3rd weekend of September, named "Cidre et Dragon" (cider and dragon). It's in a little town on the beach, it attracts tens of thousands of visitors, merchants, and fantasy authors... and has the highest rate of costumed visitors that I know of. I've been going for 12 years now, but only recently began going in Hanfu. This is how we went last year: This year I chose a Ming dynasty style costume I made. I added a Yunjian I bought, because I just can't afford the time to do the embroideries. I also wore a wig because i cut my hair shorter this year. And here I am: You might be wondering what was that thing lying at my feet. Well, yeah, that's a dragon. What the internet calls a "fitness dragon". I saw it by chance on a online shop and googled a few videos of…

During the Tang Dynasty, which was the pinnacle of feudal society in China, many aspects reached unprecedented heights. Well-known achievements such as poetry, calligraphy, painting, and dance were accompanied by a vibrant clothing culture that became one of the most dazzling chapters in Chinese fashion history. Consequently, hairstyles also exhibited an unimaginable array of colors and postures.   High Bun The term "high bun" may refer to a specific type of bun hairstyle, but it is more likely a general term for tall buns. High buns were frequently seen during the Tang Dynasty and underwent continuous innovation in style. Many poets mentioned them in their works. The popularity of these high buns spanned the entire three hundred years of the Tang Dynasty.   Lofty Bun Lofty Bun (峨髻, e ji) implies grandeur and magnificence. It is widely believed that the hairstyle depicted in Zhou Fang's painting "Court Ladies Adorning Their Hair with Flowers" represents lofty bun due to its towering mountain-like appearance. However, some people associate it with flower-decorated bun because women in the painting wear golden and silver floral accessories.   Side Bun This type of bun existed as early as the Sui Dynasty. It involved creating a tall…

Vocab of Wrapped Flower Wrapped flower - 缠花 (chán huā) - a name used to called artificially made flower using the techniques of wrapping colored silk thread around cut-out pieces and combining each parts together to make flowers, animals, insects, etc. Spring Flower - 春仔花 (chūn zǐ huā) or 春花 (chūn huā). Used in this situation would mean various types of flower combined into a small batch each flower symbolize for different meanings in China. In this case, the flower would be a wrapped flower rather than a real flower.   History of Wrapped Flower Through ancient China, people held a profound appreciation for nature, which manifested in their beliefs of deities who governed natural forces to their interest in making poetry, music, and artworks that represented the beauty they saw. One remarkable custom in ancient China were the flower hair-pinning practice known as "簪花的习俗 (zān huā de xí sú)," where both men and women adorned their hair or hat with flowers, either fresh or artificially made. Talking about flowers, there are many artificial flower craftsmen that have passed down for centuries, including "ronghua" and "wrapped flower." The art of wrapped flowers originated during the Ming Dynasty and arrived in the…

Nowadays, hanfu is attracting more and more attention from enthusiasts due to its traditional charm. When choosing hanfu, enthusiasts no longer solely focus on the form, but also pay attention to style and color. This change in purchasing mindset has prompted hanfu designers to actively innovate and strive to provide a variety of styles. Today, let's explore the charm of different color schemes in hanfu.   Red Color Hanfu In traditional symbolism, red not only represents auspiciousness and completeness but also signifies wealth and grandeur. If we want to create a luxurious style or participate in formal hanfu events, we can choose a hanfu with a deep red as the base color, paired with pink for transitions or adorned with gold thread embroidery. This combination showcases an elegant style while maintaining intricate craftsmanship. Furthermore, when paired with golden hairpins and waist ornaments, it exudes dignity and beauty.   Blue Color Hanfu If we seek a fresh and casual dressing style, why not try the blue color scheme hanfu? Blue reminds us of clear skies and oceans; it is synonymous with freshness. Wearing blue-toned hanfu instantly transforms one into sprightly elves. For example, hanfu incorporates pink bows into the waist belt…

From the enchanting landscapes of ancient China to the modern fashion runways, the timeless elegance of Hanfu garments continues to captivate hearts across the globe. As we embrace the warmth of summer, it's time to dive into the fascinating world of fabrics that effortlessly blend tradition with comfort, bringing forth a refreshing sartorial experience. Still bothered by what fabric is cooler for hanfu? This article will introduce you some common fabrics for summer hanfu.   01 Preliminary introduction to modern clothing fabrics Modern clothing materials can generally be categorized into three types: natural fibers, artificial fibers, and synthetic fibers. Artificial and synthetic fibers can also be combined to form chemical fiber. Natural fiber mainly refers to animal or plant-based fibers such as cotton, linen, wool and silk. Cotton has excellent moisture absorption properties while being breathable and warm but is prone to wrinkling; linen fiber doesn't curl easily but wrinkles easily with a rougher texture. Artificial fiber (also known as regenerated fiber) is made from natural polymers. According to the shape and usage of artificial fibers, they are divided into three categories: rayon, viscose staple fiber, and artificial wool. Important varieties include viscose fibre, acetate fibre, cuprammonium rayon fibre etc.…

Summer is here, and what better way to celebrate the season than by brightening up your wardrobe with a stunning pomegranate red Hanfu dress. HAN TIME will use the combination of pomegranate color and hanfu as the starting point to recommend a series of suggestions for wearing red hanfu dress in summer. Pomegranate color refers to a slightly deeper shade of red, resembling the color of pomegranate fruit or bright orange-red like the color of pomegranate flowers. As summer approaches and greenery abounds, the blooming of pomegranate flowers marks the season's arrival. It is an ideal time to wear a flowing long skirt in a vibrant shade of pomegranate while standing under these blossoms with a radiant smile. When it comes to pomegranate skirts, people tend to lean towards the latter meaning as this hue is more charming and unique compared to other shades such as vermilion and pink. Have you ever heard of "kneeling under the pomegranate skirt"? The phrase has been passed down through generations related to Yang Guifei who had an affinity for both Pomegranates and dresses in that same rich hue. Emperor Xuanzong ordered widespread planting of Pomegranates within palace just for her love for them.…

Vocabulary Moon-shaped fan; 团扇 (tuánshàn). Also called 宫扇(gōng shàn), 纨扇 (wánshàn), 合欢扇 (héhuān shàn), a fan that is made from silks, embroideries, golds, beads, etc. later on into the period.  Barrier fan; 障扇 (zhàng shàn) - one of the earliest version of fan from ancestors. Made with pheasant’s feathers and has a long handle. Also known as 长扇 (Chǎng shàn)、掌扇 (zhǎng shàn)、五明扇 (wǔ míng shàn). It is under the category of moon-shaped fan (团扇). Imperial carriage; 辇 (niǎn). Also known as chariot. This is the earlier versions of traveling vehicles primarily used by prestigious people for ceremonial processes, imperial tours, and any other formal occasions. The usage of this is closely related to imperial court instead of public, such as for emperor, queen’s mother, empress, and imperial concubines. These types of carriage are still man-drawn, and are made of simple designs with either a cushion or a chair for the individual seating on it.   History of Tuanshan The moon-shaped fan, also known as 团扇 (tuánshàn), is a traditional handicraft tool of the Han people from ancient China. It consists of four main components: the fan's frame, handles (usually short in length), the fan's surface (made of semi-transparent or opaque…

An increasing number of young people are beginning to experiment with wearing hanfu, these clothing styles, which were widely used in different historical dynasties in ancient China, are now being reintegrated into contemporary life and have become an important part of youth culture.   The Origin of Hanfu Culture: From Niche to Popular Typically, the origin of the modern Hanfu culture is traced back to 2003. On November 22nd of that year, a power worker named Wang Letian from Zhengzhou, Henan, walked into a downtown commercial street wearing hanfu. This event was reported by Singapore's Lianhe Zaobao, making Wang Letian the first modern Chinese person wearing hanfu to appear in public. Wang Letian was introduced to hanfu culture through forums Han Wang, and around 2003, the first hanfu enthusiasts gathered around Han Wang and other online hanfu forums, gradually forming the Hanfu circle. At the same time, some offline Hanfu culture communities began to be established. Around 2011, the subculture of adolescent internet culture rapidly developed. With the successive rise of the Lolita and the JK uniform fashion subculture, as well as the development of the cosplay community, hanfu has found its place among various clothing subcultures and has gained…

Vocab Palace Belt - 宫绦, gōng tāo, is an accessory worn around the waist to prevent dresses from flowing in the wind. It is commonly paired with hanfu for a simplistic look and referred to as such in modern times. Silk Belt - 丝绦, sī tāo. An accessory that ancient Chinese people used to refer to. However, it was not only used as a fashion accessory but also on fans or flutes. Zhiduo - 直裰, zhídāo. A traditional Chinese robe worn by scholars and officials during the Ming and Qing dynasties. It has a straight-cut Mandarin collar without openings and is a formal attire reserved for special occasions. It is worn over long shirts and wide trousers. Tassels - 流苏, liúsū. In ancient China it had different names, such as 穗子 (suìzi), 缨旒 (yīng liú), and 流苏 (liúsū). Nowadays, 流苏 (liúsū) is the most commonly used name for tassels. Silk ribbon- 绶, shòu - the ribbon with a jade or officials seals at the end.   History of Gong Tao The Palace Belt, known as 宫绦 (gōng tāo), is an accessory that dates back to the Warring States Period. It is a long woven rope with tassels attached on both…