Guide & Tutorial

When world leaders stepped onto the global stage at the 2014 APEC Summit in Beijing, their attire transcended mere diplomatic protocol. The "New Chinese Attire" (新中装) became an instant cultural phenomenon—a sartorial manifesto that bridged millennia of craftsmanship with 21st-century innovation. This meticulously curated wardrobe did more than clothe dignitaries; it reintroduced the world to Jiangnan's textile heritage while sparking a "Guofeng" (国风) revival that continues to shape China's contemporary fashion identity. Today, as traditional techniques like Su embroidery (苏绣) and Song brocade (宋锦) find fresh relevance in streetwear and haute couture, the South China Museum's exhibition Splendid Jiangnan: The Golden Age of Chinese Textile Art (锦绣江南——中国传统织绣工艺的巅峰创造) revisits this pivotal moment, unpacking how six iconic APEC ensembles became catalysts for cultural reinvention. From Imperial Workshops to Global Runways The Yangtze River Delta's Jiangnan (江南) region, long celebrated as the cradle of Chinese textile excellence, has cultivated textile arts for over 2,000 years. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, Suzhou's embroidery ateliers and Nanjing's brocade looms supplied the imperial court with fabrics so exquisite they were deemed "cloth woven by clouds." Yet by the late 20th century, many of these crafts faced extinction, preserved only in museum archives or practiced by…

In the golden age of historical dramas, off-the-shoulder costumes were a staple, often resembling an ancient version of a "deep V." These bold designs captivated audiences with their dramatic flair, but as modern productions strive for greater historical accuracy, such outfits have largely vanished from the screen. Were these revealing styles ever rooted in historical reality? And what led to their decline in contemporary storytelling? The Historical Roots of Off-the-Shoulder Fashion Contrary to the sensationalized portrayals in early historical dramas, ancient Chinese fashion was far more conservative. While certain artworks, such as the murals in the Xu Xianxiu Tomb (徐显秀墓) or figurines from the Wei and Jin dynasties, might suggest the existence of off-the-shoulder attire, these depictions are often misinterpreted. In reality, such outfits were layered with undergarments, ensuring modesty even with a slightly exposed neckline. For instance, during the Northern and Southern Dynasties, a style known as Daxiu ru (large-sleeved robes, 大袖襦) gained popularity. This design featured wide sleeves and a deep neckline, but it was always paired with a circular undergarment or Liangdang (a type of vest, 裲裆) to cover the shoulders. The result was a look that revealed only the collarbone at most—far from the exaggerated "shoulder-baring"…

In the world of historical dramas, few details are as iconic as the sight of characters tying their wide sleeves before engaging in combat. This simple yet practical act, often seen in childhood favorites, is more than just a stylistic choice—it’s a reflection of ancient Chinese ingenuity and functionality. From battlefields to everyday life, the practice of tying sleeves has deep cultural roots, blending practicality with elegance. Sleeve-Tying The tradition of tying sleeves can be traced back to two main purposes: as a simplified version of arm guards in martial contexts and as a practical tool for daily tasks, known as panbo (襻膊). Both uses highlight the adaptability of ancient Chinese clothing to the needs of its wearers. Arm Guards: From Battlefields to Screens The earliest examples of arm guards date back to the Warring States period, where bronze arm guards were used by soldiers. These cylindrical metal protectors were designed to shield the forearm during combat. By the Han Dynasty, arm guards evolved into textile versions, such as the famous "Five Stars Rise in the East, Benefiting China" arm guard, made of intricately woven brocade. These guards were secured with straps, offering both protection and flexibility. In modern historical…

Purple, often associated with royalty and nobility, has long been considered a color of prestige and power. In ancient China, it was widely believed that commoners were forbidden from wearing purple, reserved exclusively for the elite. But was this truly the case? The answer, as it turns out, is more nuanced than a simple yes or no. The Origins of Purple’s Prestige The perception of purple as a noble color stems from two main factors: the high cost of purple dye and the influence of class systems and cultural trends. However, it’s important to note that not all shades of purple were created equal. The color spectrum includes countless variations, and not every hue was off-limits to the general populace. The Cost of Purple Dye Purple dye was indeed expensive to produce. One of the most common sources of purple dye was the murasaki plant, while another was sappanwood, which yielded a different shade of purple. However, plant-based dyes were less stable and durable compared to mineral-based alternatives. During the Han Dynasty, a breakthrough occurred with the discovery of "Han Purple," a synthetic pigment made from barium copper silicate. This vibrant hue, found on the terracotta warriors of the Qin…

In the world of historical dramas, the weimao (帷帽, veiled hat) is a staple of cinematic beauty. Often seen in scenes where the heroine’s face is revealed as the wind lifts her veil, this iconic accessory has become synonymous with ethereal charm. Yet, despite its visual appeal, the weimao is often dismissed as a “beautiful but useless” item. But is it truly just a decorative prop, or does it hold deeper historical significance? The Origins of the Veiled Hat The weimao traces its roots to the nomadic tribes of ancient Central Asia, where it was initially designed as a practical garment to shield wearers from sand and wind. Its predecessor, the mili (羃篱, a bamboo-framed veil), was worn by both men and women for protection during travel. Over time, the weimao evolved into a shorter, more refined version made of silk or gauze, with a wide brim and a veil that draped to the neck. By the Tang Dynasty (618–907 AD), it had become a fashionable accessory for women, symbolizing both modesty and status. A Symbol of Changing Times The weimao reached its peak popularity during the Tang Dynasty, a period marked by cultural openness and innovation. Historical records, such…

In the world of Chinese historical dramas, few accessories are as iconic as the forehead ribbon, or mo’e (抹额). Recently featured in popular series like Fangs of Fortune (大梦归离) and The Untamed (陈情令), this simple yet elegant accessory has captured the imagination of audiences worldwide. But what is the story behind this ancient adornment, and how has it evolved over time? From its origins as a practical tool to its role as a symbol of identity and status, the mo’e offers a fascinating glimpse into Chinese cultural heritage. A Symbol of Identity and Utility The forehead ribbon has a rich history, serving both practical and symbolic purposes. Its earliest recorded use dates back to the Qin Dynasty (221–206 BCE), where it was employed as a military insignia. Known as junrong mo’e (军容抹额), these ribbons were part of the uniform worn by soldiers and ceremonial guards. They were often paired with specific attire, such as red robes and wide trousers, to denote rank and role. Historical texts, including The Chronicles of the Han Dynasty, describe how the mo’e became a standard feature of military dress, symbolizing discipline and order. For women, the forehead ribbon had a more utilitarian function. During the…

In the world of ancient Chinese jewelry, few pieces have captured the imagination of modern enthusiasts quite like the so-called "Moth Crown" attributed to Li Jingxun (李静训), a young noblewoman from the Sui Dynasty. However, recent scholarly insights reveal that this exquisite artifact is not a crown at all, but a hairpin—a detail that has been overlooked in popular reproductions and adaptations. This revelation not only corrects a historical misconception but also deepens our appreciation for the intricate craftsmanship and cultural significance of this remarkable piece. The Misidentified "Crown" The hairpin, often mistaken for a crown, is a stunning example of Tang Dynasty jewelry. It belongs to the category of buyao (步摇, step-shaking ornaments), which were designed to sway gently with the wearer’s movements. Shen Congwen (沈从文), in his seminal work Research on Ancient Chinese Clothing (中国古代服饰研究), refers to it as a "moth-and-flower hair ornament," (闹蛾儿扑花首饰) while archaeological reports describe it simply as a "hair accessory." The confusion likely stems from the fact that most images of the artifact show only a partial view, leading many to assume it was a crown. However, crowns typically have a base structure, which this piece lacks. Instead, it is a multi-pronged hairpin, a…

In recent years, intricate half-face masks have become a popular accessory in historical dramas, leaving many viewers wondering: how did these delicate ornaments stay securely on the wearer’s face? The answer lies in the ingenious design of ancient Chinese masks, which have evolved over millennia, blending functionality with artistry. These masks, far from being mere decorative items, hold deep cultural significance and offer a fascinating glimpse into China’s rich heritage. The Mechanics of Ancient Masks At first glance, these masks appear to float effortlessly on the face, but a closer look reveals their practical design. Typically, they are secured by ties at the sides, fastened at the back of the head. A subtle groove along the nose bridge ensures the mask stays in place, preventing it from slipping. This clever combination of ties and structural support allowed wearers to move freely without fear of their masks falling off. Masks in Ancient China While some might associate such masks with Western traditions, China boasts a long history of intricate mask-making, dating back to the Shang and Zhou dynasties. The most iconic examples come from the Sanxingdui and Jinsha archaeological sites, where gold and bronze masks were unearthed. These masks, often depicting…

The Song Dynasty (960–1279 AD) is often romanticized for its elegance and sophistication, particularly in fashion. One of the most iconic beauty trends of the era was the "pearl makeup," where women adorned their faces with tiny pearls. But did the number and placement of these pearls signify social status or rank? The answer, surprisingly, is no. Pearl Makeup: A Universal Trend Contrary to popular belief, the use of pearls in makeup during the Song Dynasty was not regulated by social hierarchy. While the imperial court had strict rules for official attire and ceremonial dress—such as the number of dragons or phoenixes embroidered on robes—there were no such guidelines for pearl makeup. Pearls were a universal fashion statement, embraced by women across all social strata. The pearls were typically applied to specific areas of the face: between the eyebrows, along the temples, and on the cheeks. These placements were not arbitrary but followed aesthetic principles that highlighted the natural contours of the face. However, the number of pearls used was entirely a matter of personal preference and financial means, not rank. Pearls as a Symbol of Wealth While the number of pearls did not denote social status, their abundance often…

In the historical drama Sijin (似锦), actress Jing Tian (景甜) has been spotted wearing the same hairstyle repeatedly, with only minor changes in accessories. This has sparked a wave of online commentary, with fans jokingly asking, “Is this hairstyle permanently glued to her head?” But what is the story behind this iconic look, and why has it become such a staple in Chinese historical dramas? The Origins of the Double-Ring Immortal Chignon The hairstyle in question is known as the shuanghuan Wangxian ji (双鬟望仙髻), or “Double-Ring Immortal Chignon.” It evolved from the simpler Shuanghuan ji (双环髻), a traditional hairstyle for young girls. Over time, its ethereal beauty made it a favorite in depictions of celestial beings and noblewomen, earning it a place in classical Chinese art and literature. For instance, the Admonitions of the Nymph of the Luo River (洛神赋图) and the Eighty-Seven Immortals Scroll (八十七神仙卷) both feature this hairstyle, cementing its association with grace and divinity. Its popularity in art and culture has made it a timeless choice for characters who embody elegance and otherworldly charm. A Hairstyle Through the Ages The Double-Ring Immortal Chignon has undergone several transformations throughout history. During the Wei, Jin, and Southern and Northern…

Carmen Lee (李若彤), the actress best known for her iconic role as the "Dragon Girl" in Return Of The Condor Heroes (神雕侠侣), has once again captured the public’s attention—this time, not for her acting, but for her breathtaking appearance in Hanfu, traditional Chinese clothing. At 58, Lee’s grace and poise have left fans in awe, proving that true beauty transcends age. Whether in modern attire or ancient garments, she exudes a blend of elegance and strength that continues to inspire. A Perfect Match for Song Dynasty Style Lee’s recent Hanfu looks draw inspiration from the Song Dynasty, a period renowned for its understated yet sophisticated fashion. Her outfits typically feature a cross-collar blouse paired with pleated skirts, a classic combination that reflects the refined taste of noblewomen from that era. The addition of a pibo (披帛, a long silk scarf) adds a touch of fluidity and grace, enhancing the overall aesthetic. Her makeup, reminiscent of the Tang and Song dynasties’ Feixia style (飞霞妆), involves a light layer of rouge topped with white powder, creating a delicate, rosy glow. This technique, also seen in Liu Yifei’s (刘亦菲) portrayal in A Dream of Splendor (梦华录), complements warm skin tones beautifully, making it…

Why should hanfu makers turn to thrift stores? For the deals, of course!

Peony Perfume Persists: The New Frontier of Scented Garments In the heart of China's Shandong province, a quiet revolution is taking place. The ancient city of Heze (菏泽), long renowned for its peonies, is now at the forefront of a technological breakthrough that's set to redefine the intersection of tradition and innovation in the world of fashion. At a recent women's handicraft exhibition, all eyes were drawn to an extraordinary display from Cao County, Heze. The star of the show? A skirt that seemed to bridge centuries, combining the timeless elegance of traditional Chinese hanfu with cutting-edge textile technology. This wasn't just any skirt - it was a garment woven from peony fibers, infused with a fragrance that could last for two years. Yao Chihang, the visionary behind the "Luo Ruyan" hanfu brand, beamed with pride as she explained the intricate process behind this marvel. "We've developed a new technique to extract fibers from peonies," she revealed. "During the weaving process, we embed the peony fragrance into the fabric itself, ensuring the scent remains for at least two years." This innovation isn't just a novelty; it's a testament to the potential of merging ancient craftsmanship with modern technology. The skirt itself…

Moonlit Memories: Preschoolers Celebrate Mid-Autumn Festival in Style In the quaint town of Chenqiao, Jiangsu Province, a heartwarming scene unfolded as the Mid-Autumn Festival approached. The local community came together to organize an enchanting event that blended age-old traditions with youthful enthusiasm, creating a magical experience for the town's youngest residents. The "Our Festival · Mid-Autumn Festival" event, jointly organized by various local institutions and the Wulishu Kindergarten, was more than just a celebration - it was a bridge connecting China's rich past with its vibrant future. As the children gathered, dressed in miniature hanfu and clutching handmade rabbit lanterns, they embodied the harmonious coexistence of tradition and modernity that defines contemporary China. The event kicked off with young party member volunteers weaving tales of the Mid-Autumn Festival's origins. Through a tapestry of stories, rhymes, and vivid imagery, they transported the children back in time, unraveling the mysteries of this ancient celebration. From moon-gazing to lantern riddles, the volunteers painted a vivid picture of traditional customs, instilling in the young minds a deep appreciation for their cultural heritage. But the real magic began when theory turned to practice. The DIY lantern-making session saw tiny hands busily at work, guided by…

From Classrooms to Weddings: Hanfu's Growing Presence in Everyday Life As the Mid-Autumn Festival approaches, a fascinating trend is sweeping across China - the rising popularity of hanfu, traditional Chinese clothing. This resurgence is more than just a fashion statement; it's a cultural phenomenon that's reshaping how modern Chinese, especially the younger generation, connect with their heritage. In recent years, hanfu has transcended its historical confines to become a vibrant part of contemporary Chinese life. From school performances and holiday photo-ops to Chinese-style weddings, the elegant silhouettes of hanfu are increasingly visible in everyday scenarios. This trend reflects a deeper shift in Chinese society - a growing appreciation for traditional culture and a burgeoning sense of cultural confidence among the youth. The numbers tell a compelling story. Some hanfu stores report a four to five-fold increase in customers, with students making up the majority of this surge. This isn't just a local phenomenon; the popularity of hanfu, particularly styles like the horse-face skirt, has even caught international attention. Li Fangguo (李方国), owner of a hanfu experience store, offers insight into this trend. His shop boasts over 500 sets of hanfu, ranging from styles of the Wei-Jin period to the Qing dynasty.…

From Niche to Billions: The Explosive Growth of Hanfu Industry In the heart of bustling Shanghai, amidst the gleaming skyscrapers and neon lights, a curious sight unfolds. A group of young professionals, dressed not in Western suits or casual wear, but in flowing robes with wide sleeves and intricate embroidery, make their way through a high-tech office park. This is not a historical reenactment or a costume party - it's a typical workday in 2024 China, where the ancient meets the ultramodern in a phenomenon known as the "Hanfu Renaissance." The resurgence of Hanfu, the traditional clothing of the Han Chinese, is more than just a fashion trend. It represents a seismic shift in cultural identity, economic opportunity, and national pride that is reshaping the landscape of modern China. What began as a niche interest among history enthusiasts has exploded into a multi-billion yuan industry, with ripple effects touching everything from tourism to technology. In 2023, the Hanfu market in China reached a staggering 14.47 billion yuan (approximately $2.24 billion USD), with projections suggesting it could nearly double to 24.18 billion yuan by 2027. This growth is not just in sales figures - the number of Hanfu-related businesses registered in…

Hanfu's Resurgence: A Symbol of Cultural Pride and National Confidence The recent surge in popularity of Hanfu, traditional Chinese clothing, has sparked both enthusiasm and debate across China. As more people don these garments for everyday wear and special occasions, questions arise about the authenticity of modern Hanfu and the cultural significance of this trend. Experts in costume history and market operators offer insights into this fascinating cultural phenomenon. Professor Huang Qiang, a distinguished scholar of costume history at Jiangsu Open University, provides a historical context for understanding Hanfu. He explains that traditional Chinese clothing has a rich history dating back to legendary figures like the Yellow Emperor, with each dynasty developing its own distinctive styles. From the deep-robed attire of the Qin and Han dynasties to the loose-fitting garments of the Wei and Jin periods, Chinese clothing has always reflected the aesthetics and social structures of its time. Importantly, Professor Huang distinguishes between the broad category of traditional Chinese clothing and the more specific concept of Hanfu as it's understood today. While traditional Chinese attire encompassed clothing worn by both Han Chinese and sinicized ethnic minorities throughout China's long history, modern Hanfu typically refers specifically to the clothing of…

Reviving Heritage: Caoxian's Journey to Cultural Prominence In the bustling districts of Caoxian, Shandong Province, a quiet revolution is underway, fueled by the resurgence of traditional Hanfu clothing. What was once a niche interest has blossomed into a booming industry that not only revitalizes cultural pride but also drives economic growth. This transformation is emblematic of Caoxian's innovative approach to integrating heritage with modern entrepreneurship, paving the way for sustainable development in rural China. From Tradition to Trend: The Hanfu Renaissance in Caoxian The story begins with the humble origins of Hanfu, ancient Chinese attire revived to captivate a new generation. Caoxian, historically renowned for its cultural richness, has become a nucleus for Hanfu production, drawing on centuries-old craftsmanship to meet contemporary demands. This resurgence has not only preserved traditional textile techniques but also introduced innovations like lightweight fabrics and modern designs, appealing to a diverse demographic across China and beyond. Cultural Confidence Driving Economic Expansion The success of Caoxian's Hanfu industry is not just about fashion; it's a testament to cultural confidence. As the market for Hanfu expands exponentially, local entrepreneurs are leveraging this cultural resurgence to propel economic growth. The shift from seasonal to year-round production has bolstered…

Nowadays, the Mamian skirt is increasingly integrated into our sight and life. Under such a trend, many people are eager to own their desired Mamian skirt. Let's follow Hanfu Shidai and take a look at the details to consider during the process of selecting and styling a Mamian skirt. 1 - Selection Stage Step 1: Size Firstly, choosing the right size that fits the body curves is crucial for the perfect outfit. Like a suit, a Mamian skirt can be chosen according to a size chart or customized. Whether you are selecting from a size chart or opting for customization, the main standards to measure are height, waist, and hips. These measurements will influence the choice of skirt length, waist length, and sweep circumference. If we choose to shop online, sellers often provide a size chart for customers to make their selection. By comparing the chart, you can choose according to your size information. If opting for customization, you can first provide the seller with your waist, hip, and height information for reference. Then, based on your needs, negotiate with the tailor to decide the width of the skirt door, the length of the skirt waist, and the skirt length. Generally,…

Have you mesmerized by the makeup of "A Journey to Love"? The beauty level is comparable to the grand award of Huadian in ancient costume dramas. BAZAAR brings you a look at the use of the Huadian in recent Chinese TV dramas and its history. As the chosen one of ancient times, Liu Shi Shi made a graceful appearance with a transcendent snow dance, dressed in a flowing red gown, with a graceful figure. The red of the Huadian between her eyebrows and the white of the snow complemented each other, making her as beautiful as a painting. After entering the palace, she abandoned her fierce killer aura and her presence became gentle and hazy. Her usual elegant attire, paired with the Huadian, exuded a cool and charming aura. The costume and makeup of other characters are also praiseworthy. He Lan Dou, who plays Princess Yang Ying, went from being overlooked to becoming the empress, and the appearance of the Huadian perfectly corresponded to her growth trajectory. Chen Xiao Yun's Huadian makeup in the role of noble consort Chu emanated a pure and captivating charm, making her beauty irresistible. Chen Du Ling, who caused a stir with her appearance, portrayed…

The Mamian skirt pattern, as a traditional cultural element, is leading a new trend in the fashion world today. Its unique design and patterns showcase the elegance and temperament of ancient Han women, while also incorporating elements of modern fashion, making it a highly regarded focus in the fashion industry. Let us explore the structure, content, and trends of the Mamian skirt pattern in the fashion world. 01 Diversified Material Innovations In modern fashion, designers have applied the Mamian skirt pattern to various materials such as silk, cotton, chiffon, and blended fabrics. The Mamian skirt exhibits diverse styles and characteristics through material innovation, combining vintage flavor with a contemporary sense of fashion. This diversified material innovation injects new vitality and fashion trends into the Mamian skirt pattern.   02 Innovative Styles and Diversification Modern designers have retained the traditional Mamian skirt's basic structure and introduced many innovations. For example, the Mamian skirt can be paired with other garments such as t-shirts, shirts, or jackets to create a unique fashion style. Additionally, the Mamian skirt pattern can be incorporated into accessories such as handbags, shoes, or jewelry, adding unique highlights to the overall look.   03 Perfect Fusion of Tradition and…

Recently, the new cdrama "Love Me, Love My Voice" starring Zhou Ye has been gaining popularity. Directed by Sha Weiqi, the drama features Tan Jianci and Zhou Ye as the lead actors, with Hou Wenyuan, Yang Zizi, Cao Enqi, and Chen Haolan in supporting roles. It premiered on November 30, 2023. Gu Sheng (played by Zhou Ye), a talented composer and university student, continues to strive for success in her music career. Her biggest wish is to collaborate with the renowned voice actor Mo Qingcheng (played by Tan Jianci). Unexpectedly, a chance encounter brings them together when Mo Qingcheng recites a recipe to her, stirring Gu Sheng's heartstrings. Ten years ago, Mo Qingcheng co-founded the Wanmei Dubbing Club with his friends, dedicating himself passionately to voice acting. He is also a cardiac surgeon, devoted to saving lives. Gu Sheng is invited to participate in a promotional event for her best friend Geng Xiaoxing's (played by Yang Zizi) company, which coincides with the tenth anniversary celebration of the Perfect Dubbing Club, bringing her closer to Mo Qingcheng once again. As Gu Sheng gradually gains fame, she faces doubts about her talent, but she remains true to herself, focusing on her work…

In the rich tapestry of Chinese history, traditional clothing is not just a matter of fabric and fashion; it's a vivid reflection of cultural values, social hierarchy, and artistic expression. Among these historical garments, the Hanfu Warring States Robe stands out as a symbol of elegance and a repository of stories from a time when China was divided yet culturally vibrant. This article delves into the mesmerizing world of the Hanfu Warring States Robe, a garment that encapsulates the essence of an era marked by turmoil, sophistication, and enduring legacies. In this journey through time, we will explore the origins and evolution of the Warring States Robe, its significance in the broader context of Hanfu and Chinese history, and how this ancient garment continues to influence modern fashion and cultural identity. Join us as we trace the golden threads of history, discovering the timeless elegance and profound symbolism embodied in the Warring States Robe.   What is Warring States robe? The Warring States robe, literally speaking, refers to the robes and garments from the late Eastern Zhou Dynasty and the Warring States period. The main reference for the current Warring States robe on the market is the cultural relics from…

Recently, the popularity of Mamian Qun (horse face skirt) shows no sign of waning. On November 23rd, at the opening night of VOGUE Forces of Fashion, Tong Yao's appearance in a Mamian Qun caught the attention of netizens. Mamian Qun are gradually integrating into our vision and lives. In light of this trend, I believe many people are eagerly longing to own a horse-face skirt, so let us follow the Hanfu Shidai explore the details to consider when selecting and styling a horse face skirt.   I. Selection Stage Step 1: Size First and foremost, a suitable size that fits and contours to the body curves is crucial for a perfect outfit. Similar to a suit, one can choose to follow the size chart or opt for made-to-measure when selecting a Mamian Qun. Whether based on the size chart or personalized tailoring, the primary measurements to consider are height, waist circumference, and hip circumference. These factors will influence the choice of skirt length, waist length, and hem circumference. If we choose to purchase online, merchants often provide a size chart for customers to make their selection. By referring to the table, one can choose accordingly based on their own size…