Recently, netizens noticed something special about Liu Shishi's costume in her new drama. It looked surprisingly like a modern short-sleeved T-shirt. However, this is actually a traditional Tang Dynasty garment known as Tanling Banbi (坦领半臂).
Let's break down the name. Tanling refers to the neckline style, while Banbi indicates the sleeve length. Combined, they describe a specific type of clothing popular during the Tang Dynasty.
The Tanling Neckline
The Tanling neckline resembles modern pullover shirts. This style dates back to the Shang and Zhou dynasties, though its exact structure remains unclear. It became particularly fashionable in the early Tang Dynasty.
Compared to the round neckline, Tanling features a wider opening, often extending to the chest. Some designs even include a pointed center, earning it the nickname "chicken heart neckline". The resemblance to T-shirts comes from this broad neckline, similar to today's fashion pullovers.
However, unlike modern T-shirts, Tanling garments usually have buttons or ties at the front or side for fastening. This design allowed wearers to change clothes without disturbing their elaborate hairstyles.
The Banbi Sleeves
The Banbi sleeves, often seen in period dramas, are typically associated with maids due to their practicality. However, they were not exclusive to any social class. Both men and women wore them during the Tang Dynasty.
There are two historical terms for this sleeve style: Banxiu (半袖) and Banbi (半臂). Originating from short jackets, these garments usually reached the waist, with sleeves extending to the elbow or shorter. They were rarely worn alone; instead, people layered them over long-sleeved clothing.
Men often wore Banbi as an inner layer beneath round-necked robes. Shen Congwen's "History of Chinese Clothing" describes how Tang Dynasty women popularized this style, especially during the early Tang to Wu Zhou periods. The garment's wide neckline and short sleeves gave it a youthful appeal, though its popularity waned after the High Tang period.
Practical and Versatile Design
This ancient "T-shirt" came in various styles—long sleeves, short sleeves, and even sleeveless versions, much like modern T-shirts. The term Shan (衫) generally referred to long-sleeved shirts, while Beizi (背子) denoted sleeveless designs.
Historical records, such as "Shiwu Jiyuan", note that during the Sui and Tang dynasties, court officials frequently wore Banbi. Emperor Gaozu of Tang later modified the sleeves, leading to the term Beizi.
The front-opening design made these garments incredibly practical. Unlike modern T-shirts, which require pulling over the head, Tanling Banbi could be easily put on and taken off without stretching or disheveling one's hair. The versatile sleeve lengths allowed for flexible layering, making it both functional and stylish for daily wear.
