Have you ever wondered why women in Tang Dynasty-themed films and TV shows often appear 'top-heavy'? It's not an illusion! In classical makeup and styling, the hairstyles of the mid to late Tang Dynasty are famously referred to as 'big heads.' But why? Just take a look at the number of hair buns atop their heads.
The trend of 'big heads' actually began to emerge as early as the late Eastern Han Dynasty, when noblewomen started favoring high buns, considering them a mark of beauty. The Tang Dynasty took this trend to its peak, leading to the creation of various types of artificial hairpieces (Yiji) specifically for high buns.
What did women do if they wanted to achieve this look but lacked enough hair? They simply wore artificial hairpieces. Common materials for Yiji included real hair or wooden substitutes. For example, this spiral-shaped Yiji was made from 'fake hair,' lined with hemp cloth, wrapped with palm fibers, and dyed to create a spiral shape. It could be easily pressed onto the head, showcasing both antiquity and craftsmanship.
The materials for Yiji were diverse, not limited to real hair. Thin wooden pieces were also used. One such example is the lacquered wooden hairpiece unearthed from the Astana Ancient Tombs in Turpan, Xinjiang. This piece is a standard 'single-blade half-flipped bun,' made of wood, coated with black lacquer, and adorned with white lacquer paintings of flowers, auspicious clouds, and phoenixes. The base of the bun has small holes with traces of metal rust, likely for inserting hairpins. The bun was hollow, with real hair tied inside and secured with hairpins.
Tang Dynasty hairstyles can be overwhelming with their numerous names, some poetic praises, others based on shapes or historical references. However, they can be broadly categorized by the position and shape of the buns. For instance, by the number of buns: single or double; by height: high or low; by position: side (crooked) or drooping; and by shape: half-flipped, cloud, blade, prisoner, spiral, ring (loop), or cone. This makes it easier to remember.
Another unique Tang Dynasty design was 'Baomian' (抱面), meaning hair that closely frames the face. This was achieved by padding or styling the hair to create a 'hair buns wrapping face' effect. According to the 'New Book of Tang: Five Elements,' 'By the end of the Tang Dynasty, women in the capital styled their hair with two side locks framing the face.' Later, the padding added to the three parts of the cheeks was collectively called 'Baomian.'
This style aligns with today's concept of making the face appear smaller, known as 'hair buns wrapping face.' However, this technique must consider face shape. For those with naturally small faces, excessive padding can make the face appear too small. Conversely, those with rounder faces benefit from additional padding behind the ears to create a slimmer appearance.
For example, in the drama 'National Beauty and Fragrance,' the hairstyle of the character Youzhen County Princess features added padding behind the ears, enhancing the 'hair buns wrapping face' effect and making the styling more refined.
A similar effect is often used with loose hair in period dramas. Many choose loose hair because it enhances the 'hair buns wrapping face' effect, explaining why the same face can look fuller or slimmer depending on the styling.
Tang dynasty hairstyle
That said, while loose hair is simple, it's not suitable for most formal occasions. Some 'loose hair' styles are simply lazy choices in makeup and styling, regardless of gender. After all, even in fictional settings, no emperor would attend court with disheveled hair. Even in fantasy genres, not every character needs to have loose hair—as if updos couldn't achieve the 'hair buns wrapping face' effect.
