Have you ever wondered why some classical Chinese portraits depict women with strikingly red cheeks that almost look like bruises? This distinctive look is actually an intentional and celebrated makeup style from ancient China called Jiuyun Zhuang (酒晕妆), or "Drunk Blush Makeup."
This bold cosmetic trend originated during the prosperous Tang Dynasty (618 - 907 AD), particularly popular during Empress Wu Zetian's reign. The style involved applying vibrant red pigment across large portions of the face - not just the cheeks, but often extending to the eyelids, jawline, and even ears. Historical records from the Zhuangtai Ji (妆台记), an ancient Chinese cosmetic manual, describe three intensity levels of this look: the most dramatic Jiuyun Zhuang (Drunk Blush), the softer Taohua Zhuang (Peach Blossom Makeup), and the subtle Feixia Zhuang (Flying Sunset Makeup).
Beauty Standard of the Time
What modern eyes might perceive as excessive was actually a sophisticated beauty standard of its time. The warm Wozhe (渥赭) hue - a traditional pigment made from cinnabar and ink - served multiple purposes: enhancing healthy complexion, creating facial dimension, and projecting an image of vitality. During mid - Tang period, women often paired this look with bold eyebrows for an even more striking effect.
Application Process
The application process followed specific steps: foundation powder first, then the signature rouge application, followed by eyebrow shaping, lip coloring, and finally decorative touches like Huadian (花钿) forehead ornaments. The rouge application was considered the most crucial step, similar to modern blush application but covering much more facial real estate.
Beyond aesthetics, this makeup carried cultural significance. The term Hongzhuang (红妆) became synonymous with formal feminine beauty, even inspiring literary references comparing radiant women to blooming flowers. The style represents an important shift in beauty standards - from dressing to please others to embracing self - expression.
Modern makeup enthusiasts can adapt this classical technique by blending blush more diffusely across the face. Contemporary Chinese actress Lu Yuxiao has demonstrated how this "atmospheric makeup" approach can subtly enhance facial structure while maintaining wearability. However, this technique works best for those with more facial space to balance the color distribution.
Conclusion
This historical beauty trend reminds us that makeup standards constantly evolve, and today's bold look might become tomorrow's classic. The Drunk Blush Makeup stands as a testament to the Tang Dynasty's confidence and creativity in beauty expression.
