When we think of ancient Chinese clothing, one of the first things that come to mind might be the iconic "y"-shaped collars seen in many historical dramas. These images, often simplified for visual appeal, don’t quite capture the complexity and diversity of collar styles throughout China’s long history. From the loose, expansive collars of the Northern Dynasties to the structured, high collars of the Ming and Qing periods, the evolution of the collar is a testament to both fashion and function.
A Closer Look at the "Big Collar" Trend
The concept of the "big collar" in Chinese historical attire is intriguing because it defies many modern expectations about what a collar should look like. Rather than being a rigid feature of the garment, the collar often served as a playful and dynamic part of the outfit’s overall structure. Take, for instance, the mural from the tomb of Xu Xianxiu (徐显秀) of the Northern Qi (北齐) Dynasty. The image depicts his wife wearing an outfit with an unusually large collar that seems far from the typical “cross-collar” or “y”-shaped design that we expect from Chinese traditional garments.
At first glance, the garment worn by Xu Xianxiu’s wife might look like a simple overcoat with a basic cross-collar, but upon closer inspection, we see that the collar itself is much more complex. In fact, when the garment is laid flat, it doesn’t appear as a cross-collar at all. This phenomenon is not just a curiosity; it’s a key feature of many garments from the Northern Dynasties, where the design allowed the fabric to form more intricate, layered folds when worn. The secret to this design lies in how the collar was constructed—it was made to have a certain volume that would naturally create folds when worn, forming a collar that was large, yet fluid and elegant.
Such designs are often overlooked in favor of more popular historical trends, especially those associated with the more enduring dynasties. However, the Northern Dynasties' style of dress offers a fascinating glimpse into the versatility and innovation of early Chinese fashion.
The Mysterious Origins of the Northern Qi Collar
Interestingly, the garment worn by Xu Xianxiu’s wife bears similarities to the structure of the kimono, with a collar that appears small when laid flat but expands dramatically when worn. The folds, when adjusted for the body, reveal a collar that seems to fold backward, similar to how the kimono’s collar reveals the nape of the neck. This design feature was not just about aesthetic beauty but about comfort and function, allowing the wearer to maintain warmth while also showcasing elegant drapes of fabric.
This design logic can be found in other ancient Chinese garments too. For example, a piece in the China Silk Museum from the Northern Dynasty period also shows a “big collar” design. The collar, when flat, appears as a very shallow cross-collar. However, once worn, the collar creates an illusion of depth and volume. This is a striking contrast to the more straightforward designs we often see in historical reenactments, where costumes are simplified for ease of wear.
From Northern Dynasties to Ming Dynasty: A Shift in Collar Fashion
As we move into the Ming Dynasty (明朝), we see a dramatic shift in collar styles. The Ming period is known for its use of high collars, which were a clear departure from the more flowing, relaxed styles of earlier dynasties. These collars were often structured and could be worn to create a formal, almost stately look. Unlike the "big collar" trend of the Northern Dynasties, which played with the volume and drape of fabric, Ming collars were more about precision and uniformity.
One of the key moments in the evolution of collar fashion came during the reign of Emperor Jiajing (嘉靖), around the mid-16th century. During this time, garments with high collars and straight lines became popular for both men and women, marking the beginning of a period where fashion became more rigid and formal. The high collar represented a shift toward the increasingly ceremonial nature of Ming attire, especially in court dress.
In fact, it was during the Ming Dynasty that the "standing collar" (立领) began to take shape. These collars were often worn with intricate fastenings and were designed to give the wearer a more dignified and composed appearance. While some scholars suggest that the standing collar was influenced by the formal court attire of the Ming Dynasty, it also served practical purposes. The stiff, structured collar could keep the wearer warm during colder months and add a sense of control to the garment.
The Evolution of the Standing Collar: A Legacy of the Ming and Qing Dynasties
As the Ming Dynasty transitioned into the Qing Dynasty (清朝), the standing collar evolved and became even more emblematic of elite fashion. It became a distinctive feature of Han Chinese women’s clothing, particularly in the early Qing period when the Manchu people introduced their own distinctive styles. This collar style persisted for centuries, transforming from a rigid feature into something softer and more adaptable to modern styles.
However, it wasn’t until the Qing period that the standing collar truly reached its peak. The Qing dynasty’s heavy influence on court attire meant that the collar took on even greater ceremonial importance. The collars in this period were often adorned with intricate decorative elements, such as fine silk embroidery or golden thread, showcasing the wearer’s wealth and social status.
Collars as Fashion Statements: A Continuous Evolution
The fascination with collars didn’t stop with the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The modern interpretation of Chinese collars, from the sharp, structured looks to the flowing, elegant lines, continues to influence contemporary fashion, with designers incorporating elements of traditional collar styles into modern garments. Whether in high fashion or casual wear, the evolution of the collar has left a lasting imprint on global fashion trends.
In the end, the history of collars in Chinese clothing reveals much about how fashion is shaped by both cultural needs and aesthetic ideals. From the loose, voluminous collars of the Northern Dynasties to the structured, formal collars of the Ming and Qing periods, the collar serves as a reflection of the values and practicality of its time. Whether simple or elaborate, the collar continues to be a key element of Chinese clothing, weaving a rich story that spans thousands of years.
