Hanfu (汉服, traditional Chinese clothing) isn’t just a nostalgic trend—it’s a global movement. What began as a niche subculture in China has evolved into a thriving industry, with brands blending historical accuracy with modern wearability. Forget stiff costumes; today’s Hanfu ranges from silk-adorned ceremonial robes to minimalist office-friendly pieces.
Here’s a breakdown of the brands driving this revival, their signature styles, and why they resonate with Gen Z shoppers from Los Angeles to Jakarta.
1. Minghuatang (明华堂)
Founded in 2007, this Guangzhou-based label has become synonymous with meticulous craftsmanship and eye-watering price tags—think ¥10,000 ($1,400) for a single set, with wait times stretching up to a year.
The Founder’s Obsession
Hong Kong-born Zhong Yi (钟毅), a fashion design graduate from Guangzhou Academy of Fine Arts, noticed something odd in the early 2000s: At formal events, Koreans wore hanbok, Japanese wore kimono, but Chinese attendees rarely wore Hanfu. He started designing his own pieces, wearing them daily to normalize the tradition. In 2007, he co-founded Minghuatang with a clear mission: to recreate historically accurate Ming Dynasty (1368–1644) attire with museum-level precision.
What Justifies the Price?
Minghuatang’s garments aren’t just costumes—they’re wearable history. Every stitch follows 15th-century texts and artifacts, from the aoqun (袄裙, jacket-skirt sets) cuts to the zhuanghua (妆花, a brocade weaving technique) patterns. Their 2018 Cloud-Shoulder Dragon design, inspired by Confucian family relics, uses five symbolic colors and 24k gold thread. Unlike mass-produced "fairy-style" Hanfu, Minghuatang’s pieces prioritize authenticity over Instagram appeal.
The VIP Scarcity Game
No Taobao. No Tmall. Minghuatang sells exclusively through its website—and a convoluted VIP system fuels its hype. Regular customers face 12-month delays, while VIPs (who pay ¥5,000+ annually) skip the queue. This spawned a gray market: resellers on Xianyu (闲鱼) charge 30% premiums for "instant" orders. Despite knockoffs flooding e-commerce (seven fake stores were caught on Taobao in 2020), the brand refuses to expand production.
2. Shisanyu (十三余)
In 2016, when most Hanfu brands catered to history enthusiasts, Shisanyu asked a radical question: What if traditional Chinese clothing didn't have to choose between authenticity and wearability? The answer propelled this Hangzhou startup to become Hanfu's first breakout star among digital-native youth.
Founding Story
The brainchild of influencer Xiao Doukou'er (小豆蔻儿), Shisanyu's name captures its essence - "thirteen and a bit", that fleeting age between childhood and adulthood. Like its namesake, the brand occupies the sweet spot between tradition and reinvention. While studying art history, Doukou'er noticed museums treated Hanfu as relics while teenagers saw it as costume play. She launched Shisanyu to fill the gap.
Design Philosophy
Walk through any Chinese university campus today and you'll spot Shisanyu's signatures: Ming Dynasty-inspired jackets with hidden pockets for smartphones, Song-style skirts shortened for subway stairs, embroidery patterns enlarged for Instagram clarity. Their 2019 "Pearl Maiden" collection with folk singer Yin Lin (银临) featured waistbands adjustable for all body types - a first in Hanfu design.
Cultural Impact
Three pivotal moments defined Shisanyu's rise: The 2018 collab with game Justice Online proved virtual fandoms would buy physical products. Their 2019 travel series showing Hanfu at Paris' Louvre and Morocco's blue city made tradition feel adventurous. The 2021 King of Glory collection's ¥18 million debut shattered e-commerce records.
Business Model
Unlike Minghuatang's exclusivity, Shisanyu embraces accessibility. Their "first Hanfu" starter kits (¥399/set) include detachable accessories for mix-and-match versatility. Limited drops with Bilibili and Pop Mart create urgency without alienating newcomers.
3. Chonghui Hantang (重回汉唐)
From Niche Movement to Mainstream Acceptance
While most Hanfu brands emerged after 2010, Chonghui Hantang ("Return to Han & Tang") has been dressing traditionalists since 2006—back when wearing Hanfu in public still drew stares. Founded by musician Sun Yi (孙异) and his wife Lü Xiaowei (吕晓玮) in Chengdu, this pioneer proved Hanfu could thrive beyond online forums. The brand takes its name from Sun Yi's 2004 protest song Chonghui Hantang, which became an anthem for the early Hanfu revival movement.
More Than Just a Store
What began as a 20-square-meter shop in Chengdu's Wenshu Monastery (文殊坊) district has grown into a nationwide retail network. Unlike digital-native brands, Chonghui Hantang bets on physical stores—now over 30 across China—that double as cultural hubs. Visitors can enjoy free tea ceremonies and guqin (古琴) lessons, a strategy that attracts older demographics rarely reached by online brands.
Wearable Tradition at Mid-Range Prices
Positioned between Minghuatang's luxury offerings and Shisanyu's fast fashion, Chonghui Hantang focuses on accessible authenticity. Their ¥500-1,500 collections include Tang-style ruqun with high-waisted silhouettes and Ming-era mamianqun (马面裙) in machine-woven brocade. Their wedding designs gained fame after outfitting 102 couples for Alibaba's 2014 mass Hanfu ceremony.
A Different Growth Strategy
While competitors chase viral collabs, Chonghui Hantang takes a measured approach: keeping production in-house at Chengdu workshops, hosting China's first Hanfu design contest (2013), and becoming the go-to for government cultural events. As Lü Xiaowei told Sixth Tone: "We're not just selling clothes. We're rebuilding cultural confidence."
Why It Stands Out
Purists appreciate their historical accuracy—no Disney collaborations here—while practical touches like XXXL sizing and machine-washable fabrics show their understanding of modern needs. In a market increasingly dominated by internet trends, Chonghui Hantang remains committed to its original mission: making tradition wearable for everyday life.
4. Lanruoting (兰若庭)
Breaking Price Barriers
Founded in 2016 by Zhang Jingwen (张静雯), Lanruoting revolutionized the Hanfu market by making traditional attire accessible to the masses. While other brands positioned Hanfu as luxury items with ¥800+ price tags, Lanruoting disrupted the industry with its shockingly affordable 2017 four-piece ruqun set priced at just ¥199. The brand truly made waves in 2020 when its "Spring in This World" (此间春色) collection sold over 600,000 units, earning the affectionate nickname "Hanfu's Uniform Maker" from young fans who could finally afford multiple traditional outfits.
Smart Innovations for Modern Living
Lanruoting's success came from understanding its young customers' real needs. They pioneered machine-washable polyester blends that maintained traditional silhouettes while surviving campus life and subway commutes. Clever use of digital printing technology allowed them to replicate elaborate embroidery patterns at a fraction of the cost. Practical touches like reinforced seams and hidden modern closures made their garments durable enough for daily wear, bridging the gap between historical accuracy and contemporary convenience.
Cultural Impact Beyond Commerce
More than just a clothing brand, Lanruoting became a cultural gateway for an entire generation. Their affordable ¥199 "Taiping Youxiang" (太平有象) horse-face skirt brought Ming Dynasty aesthetics within reach of students and young professionals. Through campus pop-up events and participation in cultural festivals, they transformed dorm rooms into fitting sessions and lecture halls into impromptu fashion shows. During the 2019 Intangible Cultural Heritage Festival, their runway presentation powerfully demonstrated how ordinary young people were becoming cultural ambassadors.
5. Zhuangshu Fuyuan (装束复原, Chinese Historical Costume)
From Passion Project to Academic Authority
What began in 2007 as a small Hanfu enthusiast group led by art student Liu Shuai (刘帅) has evolved into China's premier historical costume research team. Over eleven years, Zhuangshu Fuyuan has published authoritative works like "Han-Jin Attire" (汉晋衣裳) and "Chinese Costume" (中国装束), establishing themselves as academic leaders in Hanfu restoration. Their journey reflects a generation's determination to reconnect with lost sartorial heritage.
The Painstaking Restoration Process
The team's methodology reads like an archaeological detective story. With few surviving textiles (unlike durable jade or metal artifacts), they scour ancient paintings like "Court Ladies Preparing Newly Woven Silk" (捣练图) for visual clues. Each garment undergoes three rigorous stages: material sourcing (tracking down original silkworm varieties), natural dyeing (reviving plant-based pigments), and handcrafting techniques like "daolian" (捣练, silk beating) and "jiaoxie" (绞缬, resist-dyeing). A single Wei-Jin dynasty ruqun can take six months of collaborative work.
Breaking Cultural Barriers
Early critics dismissed their earthy, natural hues as "dirty-looking," unaware these were authentic historical colors. Undeterred, the team launched educational initiatives - university exhibitions, Tang Dynasty recreations with Xi'an cultural bureau, and viral Douyin campaigns like "Ancient Graduation Photos" (最美毕业季). Their work caught international attention when UK's LION TV featured them, followed by invitations to represent China at Japan-Korea traditional costume events.
Living History, Not Costume Drama
Unlike commercial Hanfu brands, Zhuangshu Fuyuan strictly avoids modern adaptations. Their recreations - like the Western Han "Longevity Embroidery" robe based on Mawangdui Tomb (马王堆汉墓) findings - maintain millimeter-perfect accuracy. Recent expansions into ancient dance and music restoration present new challenges, as team member Chi Wenhui (池文汇) notes: "Costume history is a mirror reflecting societal evolution - we're not just making clothes, we're rebuilding cultural memory."
The Deeper Mission
Beyond reviving stitches and silhouettes, the group confronts a fundamental question: How does tradition remain relevant? Their answer lies in experiential programs - workshops where visitors wear historically accurate recreations, feeling the weight of Tang silks or the drape of Song linens. As Liu Shuai reflects, "Our ancestors' aesthetic sophistication deserves more than museum displays - it should be lived, understood, and continued."
6. Huazhaoji (花朝记)
A Fresh Take on Hanfu
Founded in 2014 under Hefei Hanhai Media, Huazhaoji has carved its niche in the Hanfu market with a distinctly romantic aesthetic. Named after China's traditional Flower Festival (花朝节), the brand draws inspiration from nature's beauty - delicate cherry blossom embroidery on Song-style silhouettes, gradient dye patterns mimicking twilight skies, and flowing sleeves that recall petals in the wind. Their signature blend of historical reverence and modern practicality includes machine-washable fabrics and adjustable fits, making traditional wear accessible for contemporary lifestyles.
Cultural Storytelling Through Design
Huazhaoji's collections read like visual poetry. The Song Dynasty Portraits (大宋人物谱) series revives scholar-official elegance through muted earth tones and restrained embroidery, while their Tea Horse Road (茶马古道) line adapts caravan traders' layered practicality into office-appropriate separates. Particularly noteworthy is their National Treasure collaboration, translating the ethereal beauty of the Nymph of Luo River painting into wearable art with floating ribbon details and watercolor prints.
Beyond Clothing: Creating Experiences
The brand extends its vision through original music albums like Moonlit Blossoms (花朝月夕) and interactive runway shows at China Huafu Day. Their thoughtful accessories - hair ribbons doubling as tech charm straps, face masks with ancient marine creature motifs - demonstrate how traditional motifs can enhance modern life. As lead designer Lin Yue explains: We see each piece as a conversation between past and present, inviting wearers to become part of China's living cultural story.
7. Han Shang Hua Lian (汉尚华莲)
A Legacy of Authentic Designs
Established in 2008, Han Shang Hua Lian has grown from a Guangzhou workshop into Guangdong's largest Hanfu manufacturer, now housing three distinct brands. Their collections span dynastic styles - from the flowing qixiong ruqun of Tang nobility to the structured zhiduo (直裰) robes of Ming scholars. Each piece undergoes rigorous historical verification, with designers consulting ancient texts and museum artifacts before production.
Commercial Success Meets Cultural Mission
The brand's Tmall flagship store boasts 3.4 million followers, with popular sets like Peach Blossom Feather Fan (桃花羽扇) consistently selling 1,000+ units monthly. Their 2019 revenue of 263 million RMB topped China's Hanfu industry, proving historical fashion's modern appeal. Yet beyond profits, they maintain educational initiatives - detailed wear guides explain proper hanfu etiquette, from hairpin placement to sleeve folding traditions.
Innovation Within Tradition
While respecting classical forms like quju (曲裾) and yuanlingpao (圆领袍), Han Shang Hua Lian adapts for contemporary life. Their proprietary fabrics resist wrinkles, and hidden zippers ease dressing without compromising silhouettes. Subsidiary brands cater to niche markets: Lu Yun Ji (鹿韵记) offers casual hanfu-blends for students, while Jiu Jin Si (九锦司) specializes in luxury embroidery.
Hanfu Today: Beyond Costume, Beyond Trend
These brands show how Hanfu has moved from historical reenactment to everyday wear. Minghuatang proves some will pay top dollar for museum-quality pieces, while Lanruoting makes tradition accessible to students. Shisanyu nails the Instagram era with clever modern twists, and Chonghui Hantang keeps things authentic without being stuffy.
What's interesting isn't just the clothes—it's how they're worn. You'll see Hanfu on college campuses, at coffee shops, even in office dress codes. The styles keep evolving, but the thread connecting them is clear: this isn't about playing dress-up. It's clothing that works for real lives, with history stitched in.
The takeaway? Hanfu isn't going anywhere. From Guangzhou workshops to global runways, these brands are writing the next chapter—one that honors the past while fitting comfortably into the present.
