During the Song Dynasty, pearl embellishments were a widespread fashion trend, but contrary to popular belief, the number and placement of pearls did not signify social status or rank. While official attire for noblewomen and imperial consorts had strict regulations regarding patterns and motifs—such as the number of dragons or phoenixes on headdresses—pearl adornments were never subject to such hierarchical rules. Online claims suggesting that the quantity of pearls indicated one's rank are simply unfounded interpretations.
Pearls were a universal fashion statement. Even the empress wouldn’t cover her entire face in pearls, as there were only a few suitable spots for application: between the eyebrows, from the corners of the eyes to the temples, and on the dimples. Though the number of pearls didn’t reflect social rank, using more pearls naturally hinted at a wealthier background. Affluent families didn’t just wear pearls on their faces or as jewelry; they also embellished collars, cuffs, carpets, and even furniture with pearls, turning them into a ubiquitous decorative element.
One popular style was the 'Zhuluo' (珠络), where pearls were sewn along collars, hems, and seams to accentuate the wearer’s status. Princesses’ dowries included pearl-adorned formal gowns and long coats, as well as 'Pearl and Emerald Collars.' Historical records describe imperial consorts receiving gifts like 'Beizhu Yuanling Daochang' (北珠缘领道氅, a cloak with northern pearls) and 'Zhucui Furong Yuanling' (珠翠芙蓉缘领, collars decorated with pearls and emeralds).
Men also embraced pearl decorations, though not necessarily on their faces. Emperor Huizong of Song once wore a magnificent battle robe with pearls sewn into its seams, showcasing intricate gold-inlay craftsmanship. Similar designs appear in portraits of Emperor Zhezong.
The pearl trade flourished during the Song Dynasty, but the government initially banned extravagant pearl use among commoners, decreeing that only noblewomen could wear pearl accessories. Unsurprisingly, the ban failed, and Emperor Shenzong eventually legalized private pearl harvesting and trade, imposing taxes on sales.
To secure pearls on the skin, a special adhesive made from fish bladder glue was used. Historical texts describe its preparation by steaming and mashing fish bladders into a sticky paste, which was also employed in furniture-making and sealing gaps.
Pearls hold deep cultural significance in China, reflected in idioms like 'Zhulian Bihe' (珠联璧合, a perfect pair) and 'Cuiwei Zhurao' (翠围珠绕, surrounded by luxury). Today, the tradition of pearl adornment continues, with modern adaptations like using tiny pearls to contour facial features. Ultimately, wearing pearls was—and still is—about personal style, free from rigid rules. As the saying goes, 'Wear as many as you like—it’s got nothing to do with modern fashion trends!'
