Many people's impressions of female officials in the Ming Dynasty may come from two TV dramas: 'Shang Shi' and 'The Imperial Doctress.' The former is a work by Yu Zheng, while the latter is directed by Li Guoli. The influence of these dramas is undeniable, shaping public perception. Some might ask: Did female officials really dress so lavishly, adorned with gold and silver? Let’s explore what these officials actually looked like.
The Palace Official System
Emperor Hongwu, when establishing the palace official system, referred to previous dynasties' practices and set up six departments and one supervisory office: Shanggong (尚宫), Shangyi (尚仪), Shangfu (尚服), Shangshi (尚食), Shangqin (尚寝), and Shanggong (尚功), along with the Gongzheng Si (宫正司). The duties of female officials were broadly divided into routine palace responsibilities and ceremonial roles in royal events. The system was perfected during the Hongwu era, becoming the standard for later generations.
Attire Inheritance
From the Tang to the Ming Dynasty, the attire of female officials was largely inherited. According to historical records like 'Ming Shilu' and 'Da Ming Ji Li,' they typically wore black gauze hats (some resembling Tang - style headwear), narrow - sleeved round - collared robes, leather belts at the waist, and black boots or bow shoes.
In the Song Dynasty, female attendants in the palace were influenced by popular customs like wearing hairpins. By the Ming Dynasty, the attire of palace women was noted to be similar to that of the Song Dynasty. However, the elaborate hairstyles and gold accessories often depicted in dramas were more characteristic of noblewomen and seemed out of place in official settings. This can be seen in paintings like 'Emperor Xianzong Enjoying the Lantern Festival.'
Seasonal Clothing Materials
The clothing materials varied with the seasons. According to Liu Ruoyu’s 'Zhuo Zhong Zhi,' palace women switched to lighter fabrics like gauze in early April and stored fur garments after the Qingming Festival. By early November, as Beijing turned cold, they wore warmer attire, including ear muffs.
Festival Outfits
During festivals, female officials could wear themed outfits. For example, they donned gourd - patterned robes around the Kitchen God Festival, lantern - patterned attire for the Lantern Festival, magpie bridge designs for Qixi Festival, and chrysanthemum motifs for the Double Ninth Festival.
Selection of Female Officials
Most female officials were selected from commoner families, often unmarried or widowed women aged 15 to 40. Serving in the palace exempted their families from labor duties and provided food and shelter. The selection criteria emphasized literacy and arithmetic, distinguishing them from maids, though maids could be promoted through education.
Career Development
As depicted in 'Shang Shi,' some female officials could rise to become imperial consorts or crown princesses due to their virtue and talent. However, many chose to uphold their integrity, earning respect through their conduct. For instance, Huang Weide, selected in 1389, maintained her chastity and adherence to protocol. Another official, Wang, declined the emperor’s advances, citing her widowhood.
Honors for Senior Female Officials
Senior female officials were honored with titles like 'Nu Junzi' (女君子) or 'Nu Taishi' (女太史). Some, like Huang Weide, were granted fifth - rank honorary robes, the highest for female officials. These ceremonial robes featured rank - specific insignia but were reserved for special occasions, with regular duties performed in standard attire.
Retirement and Pensions
Female officials could retire and return home or remain in the palace. Their service brought honor to their families, and they received pensions. One notable example is Huang, who served until age 75 during the Xuande era, receiving royal honors despite having no surviving family.
Accurate Portrayal in Dramas
While dramas like 'Shang Shi' popularize these roles, it’s essential to portray them accurately, especially given the Ming Dynasty’s well - documented sartorial traditions. Why not draw from this rich heritage for authenticity?
