In the recent TV series "The Purple Hairpin," actor Ye Zuxin's portrayal of a crown prince has sparked discussions among viewers, particularly regarding the authenticity of his costume. A key point of contention is why a crown prince would wear a robe adorned with five - clawed dragons.
To clarify, the gunlongpao (衮龙袍), a round - collared robe featuring circular dragon motifs, was a common attire for Ming Dynasty emperors, crown princes, and imperial relatives. This garment, paired with the yishanguan (翼善冠) hat, was worn during various court activities, lectures, and ceremonies.
Contrary to popular belief, the five - clawed dragon design was not exclusive to the emperor but was shared among the imperial family, with variations in the number of dragon motifs. The misconception that only the emperor could wear five - clawed dragons stems from Qing Dynasty dress codes, not Ming traditions.
Over time, the gunlongpao evolved, incorporating more elaborate designs for formal occasions, such as the addition of twelve symbolic patterns during the reign of Emperor Yingzong. These patterns, representing elements like the sun, moon, and stars, were reserved for grand ceremonies, making the robes more ornate than everyday wear.
The series, while attempting to recreate Ming Dynasty fashion, falls short in several aspects. For instance, the robes' collars appear excessively wide, a detail not supported by historical evidence. Additionally, the costumes' slim fit and shorter sleeves deviate from the voluminous and dignified style characteristic of Ming nobility.
This discrepancy suggests budget constraints may have influenced the production's costume design. However, as historical dramas serve as a vital platform for cultural representation, investing in accurate and high - quality costumes is essential to avoid misrepresenting China's rich sartorial heritage.