In the Korean drama 'Won Kyung,' Queen Won Kyung is seen wearing a full set of Zhaiyi (翟衣), along with a Yanju crown (燕居冠) adorned with Bobin (博鬓), which is typically reserved for empresses or crown princesses. Observant viewers might find this attire familiar. In recent years, Zhaiyi has frequently appeared in Chinese historical dramas set in the Song and Ming dynasties, largely because well - preserved portraits of empresses from these periods provide ample reference material. The 'Zhai' in Zhaiyi refers to the Zhai pattern (翟纹), which features the Chinese pheasant (红腹锦鸡), a bird native to China with vividly colored feathers described as 'red with five hues.' The pattern consists of twelve pairs of pheasants arranged in rows, interspersed with small floral motifs called 'Xiaolunhua' (小轮花) in the Ming dynasty. The headdress also follows a strict hierarchy: the phoenix crown (凤冠) with Bobin is the highest rank, paired with Zhaiyi, while the Yanju crown (with Bobin) is worn with a yellow Dasha (大衫) and Xiapei (霞帔). Noblewomen's Zhai crowns are paired with red Dasha and matching Xiapei.
Why does Zhaiyi appear in Korean dramas?
The 'Goryeo History' records that Empress Xiaoci of the Ming dynasty once bestowed Zhaiyi upon a Goryeo queen, but this practice was discontinued during the Joseon period. According to the 'Annals of the Joseon Dynasty,' although Goryeo - era bestowed garments might have been preserved, their use was later prohibited by law. The records in the 'Annals' align with the regulations in the 'Ming Hui Dian' (明会典), confirming that Joseon was never granted Zhaiyi but instead received Dasha and Xiapei. Their Zhai crowns were also forbidden from having Bobin, and they could not use jade Guigui (玉谷圭) but had to settle for ivory Guigui. Additionally, they were barred from wearing leather belts or decorative ribbons. These deviations from Ming regulations highlight the hierarchical distinctions. Ming - era noblewomen's attire included Zhai crowns, Dasha, Xiapei, Beizi (褙子), and Juyi (鞠衣), but Joseon was never granted Juyi, substituting it with red and green Tuanshan (团衫). This reflects the Ming dynasty's standardized bestowal practices for vassal states.
The 'Annals of the Joseon Dynasty' suggest that Joseon had a limited understanding of the empress's attire system, even conflating formal and casual wear. For instance, in 1610, when Gwanghaegun crowned Lady Ryu as queen, the Ming dynasty did not bestow any garments. Instead, Joseon referenced the 'Inmyeong Queen's Attire' from 1603 and adapted it with 'national customs,' replacing the Zhai crown with hair ornaments for ceremonial use. They also added accessories like jade pendants, belts, shoes, and socks, subtly elevating their attire to match Ming standards. It wasn’t until the Korean Empire that Zhaiyi was fully revived, even restoring the ancient Chinese empress's ceremonial system—Hui - Zhaiyi (袆翟衣制). After disappearing for centuries following the Qing dynasty's fall, Zhaiyi resurfaced in Korea. In 1922, the English princess consort wore the 'revived' Zhaiyi, cementing its status as a 'national ceremonial dress.' The 2008 drama 'King Sejong' depicted Queen Won Kyung in Dasha, Xiapei, and a bejeweled Zhai crown, a portrayal closer to historical accuracy than most Korean dramas.
Interestingly, Joseon long believed that only Zhaiyi could match the king's ceremonial robes and repeatedly requested the Ming dynasty to bestow full Zhaiyi attire—requests that were never fulfilled. Yet, Korean dramas have since 'filled this gap' on their own.
