Ancient Chinese Lipstick: Beyond the Paper Stunt

In countless historical dramas, we often see female characters pressing a red paper to their lips for instant color. This raises an intriguing question: Was this actually a historical practice? The answer reveals far more sophistication in ancient Chinese cosmetics than modern audiences might assume.

Ancient China developed lip color products called Kouzhi (口脂) or Chunzhi (唇脂) as early as the Northern Wei Dynasty. Agricultural scientist Jia Sixie documented their production in Qimin Yaoshu: "When marrow is scarce, blend with beef tallow. Without marrow, tallow alone suffices. Steep cloves and patchouli in warm wine. Simmer with equal parts moisture - retaining agents, adding artemisia for color enhancement. Filter through silk into porcelain or lacquerware to solidify. For lip balm, mix with vermilion and wrap in green oil."

Historical lip colors included:

💄 Jiangse (绛色): The quintessential "China red" described in Shuowen Jiezi as "grand crimson," immortalized in poetry like "Silent are the crimson lips and beaded sleeves."

💄 Zhuhong (朱红): A red - orange hybrid resembling imperial palace walls, praised as "Fragrant balm precedes vermilion lips' movement."

💄 Tanse (檀色): A light mauve akin to modern nude shades, depicted as "Delicate green imprints eyebrow traces, while pale tan tints fading lips."

💄 Wuse (乌色): The Tang Dynasty's gothic black lip trend, satirized as "Inky paste makes lips like mud, with brows drawn downward in misery."

Application methods mirrored modern routines: foundation, blush, eyebrow definition, forehead adornments (huadian 花钿), cheek accents, temple highlights, finishing with lip color. The final step allowed creative freedom - using specialized brushes or fingers for precise shaping.

The paper lipstick myth originated from wartime resource scarcity during China's Republican era, when red paper became an emergency cosmetic. This improvisation later entered costume dramas as a convenient production shortcut across various dynastic settings.

This exploration of ancient beauty standards demonstrates how historical Chinese cosmetics blended botanical science with artistic expression, creating a sophisticated system that predates modern makeup by centuries. Far from primitive, these techniques reveal an advanced understanding of pigmentation and skincare that continues to influence beauty trends today.