In the past, historical dramas often featured costumes with large necklines, resembling an ancient version of 'deep V-necks.' But were such off-shoulder outfits truly worn in history? And why are they less common in modern productions?
There were indeed similar styles, at most revealing the neck. Historical artifacts like the murals from Xu Xianxiu's tomb and figurines from the Wei-Jin period might give the impression of off-shoulder outfits. However, these were typically layered with undergarments beneath the outer robe.
For instance, during the Northern and Southern Dynasties, the 'Da Xiu Ru' (大袖襦) was popular. This style, often seen in figurines, featured wide sleeves, though only sleeve fragments have been unearthed so far. Based on these artifacts and the characteristics of 'Ru,' scholars have reconstructed how the Da Xiu Ru might have looked, with variations in neckline size.
Notably, figurines wearing such large-neckline outfits invariably have a circular or horizontal line around the neck, representing the collar of an undergarment or 'Liang Dang' (裲裆).
By the Southern Dynasties, waistlines of skirts rose to the chest, while some upper garments retained the Da Xiu Ru style. The necklines during this period resembled modern cinematic effects, barely revealing the collarbone. However, achieving the exaggerated openness seen in dramas would have required boldness. This fashion trend faded as the Sui and Tang Dynasties restored more conventional necklines.
So why did early dramas obsess over off-shoulder outfits, while modern productions avoid them? One reason is the growing public knowledge of historical fashion, offering more accurate alternatives. Another factor is the brief and niche appeal of the Northern and Southern Dynasties' liberal aesthetics, which, after overuse, lost their novelty.
Regardless, even with large necklines, ancient attire maintained an elegant and dignified aura, far from the provocative styles sometimes exaggerated in modern photoshoots. Some contemporary costumes are artificially altered for sensationalism, straying from historical authenticity.
In summary, while off-shoulder outfits had their place in history, modern historical dramas prioritize accuracy and diversity, moving away from exaggerated designs for more authentic representations.
