Have you ever noticed the distinctive headband worn by Lan Wangji in 'The Untamed'? This traditional accessory, known as Mo'e (抹额), has recently made a comeback in popular TV dramas like 'The Dream of Splendor'. But what exactly is its purpose?
Functions of Mo'e in Ancient Chinese Society
Mo'e served two primary functions in ancient Chinese society. First, it acted as a ceremonial identifier, particularly in military and official settings. Historical records from the Qin to Song dynasties mention 'Junrong Mo'e' (军容抹额) - special headbands worn by soldiers and honor guards as uniform insignia. The 'Song Shi' documents imperial guards wearing purple embroidered robes with Mo'e and silver belts during grand ceremonies.
Secondly, Mo'e had practical applications in daily life. Yuan dynasty women from scholar and commoner families adopted Mo'e to secure their hairstyles during work. By the Ming and Qing dynasties, Mo'e transcended social classes to become a universal fashion statement. Even Tang dynasty women wearing male attire would complement their outfits with Mo'e.
Etymology of Mo'e
Etymologically, the character 'Mo' (抹) implies binding or tightening. Han dynasty texts reveal early terms like 'Mo' (陌) and 'Pa' (帕) referred to similar hair-binding functions. The 'Shi Ming' describes it as 'a headband that gathers hair upward'.
Materials of Mo'e
Material-wise, Mo'e evolved from simple cloth strips to elaborate accessories. Common versions used cotton, silk, or brocade with intricate embroidery. Wealthier families during Ming and Qing dynasties showcased status through Mo'e made of animal pelts, metals, or adorned with kingfisher feathers, gold filigree, and gemstones.
Mo'e in Literature and Modern Dramas
Classic literature adaptations like 'Dream of the Red Chamber' frequently feature aristocratic women wearing satin Mo'e decorated with pearls or metal floral pieces. Contemporary costume dramas have reinterpreted this tradition, creating new variations while maintaining historical essence. The Mo'e's revival in shows like 'The Untamed' and 'The Dream of Splendor' demonstrates its enduring cultural appeal, blending nostalgia with modern aesthetics.
From practical hair accessory to status symbol, and now to cinematic fashion element, Mo'e continues to fascinate as a tangible connection to China's sartorial heritage.
