In period dramas and ancient-style photography, cloaks are a common sight, but did you know they are actually a modern hybrid of Chinese and Western influences?
The traditional Chinese cloak, known as 'Dou Peng,' typically consists of a separate hood and outer garment. The cloak itself refers to the outer layer, possibly derived from the design of straw raincoats (Suoyi). This separation allows for versatility—wearing just the cloak for warmth or pairing it with a hood in harsh weather. The hood, called 'Feng Mao' or 'Guanyin Dou,' serves its own practical purpose.
Illustrations from Sun Wen's 'Dream of the Red Chamber' depict cloaks without hoods: sleeveless, loose, ankle-length, with either no collar or a standing collar, and front panels that drape naturally. Some feature attached straps for ease of movement, worn draped over the shoulders. Resembling an upside-down ancient bell, these cloaks were also called 'Yi Kou Zhong' (一口钟) or 'Yi Guo Yuan' (一裹圆) during the Qing Dynasty and in modern academia. This design aligns with the cloaks seen in the 1987 adaptation of 'Dream of the Red Chamber,' where the hood and cloak are separate.
Modern depictions of cloaks often blend early straw raincoats and bamboo hats (Douli). Some argue the detached hood evolved from the Northern Dynasties' 'Feng Mao,' while others suggest similarities to 'Hu Mao' (胡帽), though these theories remain speculative. Adding a soft hood enhances the cloak's functionality in extreme weather.
Today, hooded cloaks in films and TV dramas combine ancient Chinese designs with Western hooded elements, creating a fashionable hybrid. This article aims to inform rather than critique, as modern productions balance historical accuracy with creative adaptation.
