In many Tang and Song dynasty dramas, you'll notice that almost every male character wears the same type of hat—the Futou. Whether they're high - ranking officials, low - level clerks, or military generals, the Futou is a common sight. This raises the question: was this hat really that ubiquitous in ancient China?
The Futou, also known as the 'Zheshang Jin' (折上巾), was the most popular headwear for men during the Tang dynasty. It originated from a simple headscarf and evolved into two main styles: the 'soft wrap' and the 'hard wrap.' The soft wrap involved directly tying the cloth around the head, while the hard wrap used a base called 'Jinzi' (巾子) to create a more structured shape. The design of the Jinzi varied slightly over time.
Historical records, such as Shen Kuo's 'Dream Pool Essays' from the Song dynasty, describe the Futou's tying method in detail. It involved four straps: two tied at the back, leaving two dangling, and the other two folded and tied at the top, giving it the nickname 'Zheshang Jin'. This style was particularly popular among military personnel, as noted in the 'Tang Huiyao.'
Despite its widespread use, the Futou wasn't universal. Emperors wore elaborate crowns like the 'Tongtian Guan' (通天冠) or 'Yishan Guan' (翼善冠) during grand ceremonies, while high - ranking officials donned the 'Jinxian Guan' (进贤冠). Commoners and lower - ranking officials often wore simpler hats like the pointed felt cap.
Interestingly, women in the Tang dynasty also adopted male attire, including the Futou. However, female versions were softer and draped forward, as seen in the tomb of Xue Jing. By the late Tang and Five Dynasties period, the Futou evolved further, with stiffened flaps and hanging corners influencing Song dynasty styles.
In the Song dynasty, the Futou diversified into various forms, each denoting social status. For example, the 'Pingjiao' (平脚) and 'Zhijiao' (直脚) styles were reserved for court officials, while 'Qujiao' (曲脚) and 'Jiaojiao' (交角) were worn by servants and public officers. The 'Jujiao' (局脚) was for scholars and Hanlin academics, and the 'Shunfeng' (顺风) style was common among civilians.
This humble hat, with its rich variations, reflects the intricate social hierarchies and cultural significance of headwear in ancient China. From military use to civilian fashion, the Futou's legacy endures as a symbol of tradition and identity.
For more insights into Tang dynasty fashion, check out our coverage of Zhao Lusi's latest Tang - style look in 'The Pearl Curtain.' Stay tuned for more updates on Hanfu culture!
