Did ancient clothes have buttons? Isn't it too "modern"? Well, buttons did exist in ancient times! They just weren't always called "buttons".
Traditional "Jieying Xidai"
In ancient Chinese clothing, the most commonly used method was "Jieying Xidai" (结缨系带). It involved wrapping two delicate ribbons around to connect the two sides or front and back parts of the clothing tightly. It was both stable and adjustable in terms of fit. As recorded in "Liji Yuzao" (礼记·玉藻), "Disciples use twisted ribbons to tie knots." "Niu" (纽) in Chinese is related to threads as it has the radical "mi".
Uncertain Cases in Qin Dynasty
However, there were also some special cases. For example, there were decorations on the Terracotta Warriors that resembled one - character buttons. But some also claim that they were ropes specifically for connecting armor, and this is still in doubt.
Development in Tang and Song Dynasties
During the Tang and Song dynasties, although ribbons still dominated, the clothing culture was quietly changing. Round - collared robes and some minority Beizi (褙子) gradually incorporated cloth buttons, mostly made by knotting silk fabrics. Some reports now call them "Niupan" (纽襻).
Flourishing in Ming Dynasty
In the Ming Dynasty, the prosperity of the social economy promoted a leap in clothing art. In addition to traditional fabric buttons, a new and luxurious trend emerged - metal mother - and - son buttons became popular. They were carved from precious materials such as gold, silver, and jade, shining brightly. These delicate metal buttons were often used to decorate the collars of outerwear. Their designs were complex and delicate, with various symbolic patterns.
For example, scholars and refined gentlemen preferred "jade buttons" with cultural connotations to show their personal sentiments, while women chose various metal flower buttons, symbolizing prosperity and good wishes.
Appearance of the Term "Button"
Although "niu" and "kou" often appeared separately, the term "button" emerged relatively late. In the second act of "Tiao Fengyue" by Guan Hanqing in the Yuan Dynasty, it says, "Until it's pitch - black, not willing to change clothes; untie the rabbit - like ribbon and separate the buttons."
Buttons in TV Dramas and Their Cultural Significance
The popular buttons varied in each period, and there are often examples in TV dramas of using metal buttons across different eras. It seems that the charm of ancient buttons on clothing has gradually been presented in films and TV shows, far beyond what we can easily imagine today. They are not just small accessories on clothing but also bright pearls where culture, art, and craftsmanship shine in the long river of history.
The artistic conception in the poem "Golden inlaid flower buttons hang, and jade - carved ornaments adorn" is vividly presented in the clothing of ancient people, making us sigh with admiration for the wisdom that seems to transcend time but actually "existed long ago".
