Why Maids Often Wear Short-Sleeved Tops in TV Dramas
Why do we often see maids wearing short-sleeved tops in TV dramas, while young ladies rarely do? Let's first talk about these so - called "short - sleeved" tops. Maids wear them mainly for the convenience of work. However, this style is not restricted to maids; it's just a type of clothing item. In ancient China, it had two names: "Banxiu" (半袖) and "Banbi" (半臂). It originally evolved from the short ru (a kind of traditional Chinese upper - body garment). Usually, it reached the waist, and the sleeve length was up to the elbow or even shorter. It was not worn alone, and the most common way to wear it today is to put it over a long - sleeved garment. Actually, men could also wear it. In the Tang Dynasty, it was often used as an inner layer, like wearing a Banbi inside a round - collar robe.
The Origin and Popularity of Banbi
This style emerged during the Han and Jin dynasties. The figurines of a lute - playing person and a mirror - holding person in Sichuan Han tombs were all wearing Banbi over long - sleeved ru. But it was not popular at that time. It truly became popular during the Sui and Tang dynasties and got the name "Banbi". The "Old Book of Tang" mentioned "Banxiu qun ru" (half - sleeved skirt and ru). Feng Jian of the Later Shu in the Five Dynasties quoted "Two - Instrument Real Records" in his "Continuation of the Beginning of Things": "During the Daye period of the Sui Dynasty, many palace maids wore half - fronted clothes, which are today's long - sleeved clothes. Emperor Gaozu of the Tang Dynasty shortened the sleeves and called it Banbi." This kind of clothing first became popular in the palace and then spread to the folk, becoming a fashion.
Modern Researchers' Views
Modern researchers also provide evidence. Mr. Shen Congwen, in his mention of "Tang Women Wearing Banbi", pointed out that "Banbi is also called 'Banxiu'... Its characteristic is that the long sleeves reach the elbow, and the body length reaches the waist." Mr. Sun Ji, in his article "The Clothing and Makeup of Tang Women", further stated that "Banbi, also known as Banxiu, appeared in the Three Kingdoms period and was already popular by the Sui Dynasty..."
A Tang Dynasty Artifact
A cultural relic, the "Purple - Red Silk Ground Gold - Embroidered Banbi" from the Tang Dynasty, was unearthed from the Famen Temple. It is extremely small, with a body length of 6.5 cm and a sleeve length of 14.1 cm. It should be a special offering clothing made for the Bodhisattva Holding the Real Body.
Wearing Ways and Styles
Ancients usually had three ways of wearing Banbi: wearing it outside, wearing it inside, and wearing it with one arm exposed. The collar styles were mostly cross - collars and front - buttoned styles.
The Popularity of Banbi in the Song Dynasty
Banbi was also popular in the Song Dynasty. In Emperor Huizong's "Picture of Eighteen Scholars", there was a kind of informal clothing with a Banbi over a long gown. Su Shi wrote, "Drunk, I wore a purple silk robe upside down, with a Banbi of light blue silk showing underneath." Zhou Bangyan wrote, "The winter clothes are newly dyed the color of the distant mountains, with a double - silk Banbi of silk." This also proves that men wore Banbi, not only as an inner layer but also as an outer layer. In the Song Dynasty, long gowns might also have Banbi - like styles, worn over long - sleeved gowns.
The Wearing of Banbi in the Ming Dynasty
In the early Ming Dynasty, mistresses also wore Banbi, with front - buttoned, cross - collared, and shallow cross - collared styles. After the middle of the Ming Dynasty, sleeveless Bijia (比甲, which can be traced back to the Yuan Dynasty at the earliest) gradually became popular. Bijia could be short or long, mostly with round or square collars, and gradually became a popular item at that time.
In ancient China, social status was distinguished by color, fabric, patterns, and ornaments, but not by the styles of daily casual clothes (except for formal dresses like Mianfu and Xiapei). People usually changed their clothes according to different occasions, which reflects the wisdom of the Chinese in dressing.
