Hanfu, the traditional clothing of the Han Chinese, has experienced a remarkable resurgence. What was once a niche interest among history enthusiasts and cultural purists has now blossomed into a full-blown fashion movement. By 2024, the Hanfu market is not just thriving—it’s evolving, adapting, and influencing modern fashion in ways that few could have predicted a decade ago.
The Hanfu Phenomenon
The Hanfu revival isn’t just about clothing; it’s a cultural statement. Rooted in over 3,000 years of history, Hanfu represents more than just aesthetics—it’s a symbol of identity and heritage. In 2024, this traditional attire has found its way into the wardrobes of a diverse audience, from young students to working professionals, and even international fashion enthusiasts.
The driving force behind this resurgence? A combination of government support, cultural pride, and the rise of China-chic (国潮). Policies promoting traditional culture, such as the "14th Five-Year Plan for the Development of Chinese Traditional Culture," have played a significant role in boosting public interest. Events like China Huafu Day (中国华服日) and Huazhao Festival (花朝节) have further cemented Hanfu’s place in contemporary culture, turning it into a symbol of national pride.
The Market Boom: Numbers Don’t Lie
The numbers speak for themselves. In 2023, the Hanfu market in China was valued at 13.7 billion yuan (approximately $1.9 billion), and it’s projected to grow to 33.4 billion yuan by 2028. This explosive growth is fueled by a combination of factors: increased consumer interest, a growing number of brands entering the market, and the rise of e-commerce platforms like JD.com, which have made Hanfu more accessible than ever.
JD.com, one of China’s largest e-commerce platforms, has been at the forefront of this trend. In 2023, JD reported a staggering 325% year-on-year increase in Hanfu sales. The platform has become a hub for both established brands and emerging designers, offering everything from high-end, intricately embroidered pieces to more affordable, everyday wear.
Who’s Wearing Hanfu?
The Hanfu community is growing rapidly, and it’s becoming increasingly diverse. What started as a niche interest among history buffs and cosplay enthusiasts has now expanded to include people from all walks of life. Here’s a breakdown of the key trends:
Diverse Demographics: Hanfu is no longer limited to a specific age group or gender. People of all ages, from teenagers to middle-aged professionals, are embracing Hanfu. While cities with strong cultural tourism, like Xi’an and Nanjing, have been early adopters, the trend is now spreading to other regions as well.
Everyday Wear: Initially, Hanfu was primarily worn for special occasions like photoshoots or cultural festivals. However, it’s increasingly being incorporated into daily life. From commuting to work to casual outings, Hanfu is becoming a regular part of people’s wardrobes.
Three Key Consumer Groups
The Aesthetic Enthusiasts (颜值派): This group is all about looks. They’re drawn to Hanfu for its beauty and uniqueness, often opting for modernized versions that blend traditional elements with contemporary fashion. Think shorter hemlines, lighter fabrics, and bold patterns. These consumers are typically young, fashion-forward, and active on social media platforms like Xiaohongshu (小红书), where they share their latest Hanfu looks.
The Immersive Experience Seekers (沉浸派): For this group, Hanfu is more than just clothing—it’s a lifestyle. They’re deeply invested in the cultural and historical aspects of Hanfu, often pairing their outfits with traditional accessories like hairpins, fans, and embroidered shoes. This demographic tends to be older, with higher disposable incomes, and they’re willing to spend more on high-quality, authentic pieces.
The Purists (专业派): These are the hardcore Hanfu enthusiasts. They’re meticulous about historical accuracy, from the cut and fabric to the smallest details of embroidery. Many are students or young professionals with a strong interest in Chinese history and culture. For them, wearing Hanfu is a way to connect with their heritage and express their identity.
The Rise of Mamianqun: Hanfu’s Star Product
Among the various styles of Hanfu, the Mamianqun (马面裙), a pleated skirt with a distinctive horse-face design, has emerged as the most popular. Its versatility and modern appeal have made it a favorite among Hanfu enthusiasts. Here’s what’s driving its success:
Aesthetic Appeal
The Mamianqun’s intricate design and flowing silhouette make it a standout piece. Its elegant pleats and unique "horse-face" pattern evoke a sense of historical grandeur while remaining visually striking. It’s no wonder that it’s the most searched Hanfu item online, capturing the attention of both traditionalists and fashion-forward consumers.
Practicality Meets Tradition
As Hanfu becomes more integrated into daily life, comfort and functionality have become key considerations. Modern Mamianqun designs are no longer just about aesthetics—they’re designed for real-life wear. Adjustable waistbands, hidden pockets, and anti-wrinkle fabrics are now common features, making the Mamianqun a practical choice for everything from commuting to casual outings.
Innovative Designs
Brands are constantly innovating to meet consumer demands. From shorter hemlines for easier movement to modernized patterns and colors, the Mamianqun is evolving to suit contemporary tastes while retaining its traditional essence. These innovations have made it a versatile piece that can be dressed up or down, appealing to a wide range of consumers.
The Four Key Directions of Mamianqun Modernization
To meet the growing demand for everyday wear, the Mamianqun has undergone significant transformations. Here are the four major directions in which the design has evolved:
Adjustable Hemlines
One of the most noticeable changes is the adjustment of skirt lengths. Traditional Mamianqun designs were often floor-length, which, while elegant, could be impractical for modern lifestyles. Today, shorter versions—such as knee-length or mid-calf styles—are gaining popularity. These adaptations make the skirt more manageable for daily activities, especially for younger wearers or those living in urban environments. Shorter hemlines also add a playful, youthful vibe to the design.
Modernized Colors and Patterns
Gone are the days when Mamianqun were limited to traditional, ornate patterns. Modern designs feature more subdued, everyday colors like muted grays, soft pastels, and earthy tones, making them easier to pair with contemporary clothing. Additionally, patterns have shifted toward simpler, more minimalist designs, with some brands even incorporating playful, cartoon-inspired motifs. This shift not only broadens the skirt’s appeal but also makes it more accessible to those new to Hanfu.
Diverse Fabric Choices
Comfort is key, and modern Mamianqun are now made from a variety of fabrics to suit different seasons and preferences. Lightweight materials like cotton, linen, and chiffon are popular for summer, while heavier fabrics like velvet and wool blends are used for colder months. Innovations in fabric technology have also introduced features like wrinkle resistance, quick-drying properties, and improved breathability, ensuring that the Mamianqun is as functional as it is beautiful.
Functional Upgrades
To enhance practicality, modern Mamianqun designs incorporate several functional elements:
Adjustable Waistbands: Elastic or drawstring waistbands make the skirt more comfortable and adaptable to different body types.
Pockets: Hidden or decorative pockets add a touch of convenience, allowing wearers to carry small essentials without compromising the skirt’s aesthetic.
Anti-Slip and Anti-Exposure Features: Inner linings, snap buttons, and discreet zippers are now common, addressing concerns about modesty and ease of wear.
Success Stories: Brands Leading the Charge
Several brands have capitalized on the Hanfu boom, each carving out a unique niche in the market:
Zhizaosi (织造司): Known for its high-quality craftsmanship and innovative designs, Zhizaosi has successfully used JD.com’s marketing tools to reach a wider audience. Their collaboration with influencers on Xiaohongshu has resulted in impressive ROI, proving the power of social media in driving sales.
Shisanyu (十三余): This brand has mastered the art of product launches, using a combination of online and offline channels to generate buzz. Their new releases often sell out within hours, thanks to effective pre-launch campaigns and strong community engagement.
Chonghui Hantang (重回汉唐): By leveraging JD.com’s membership programs and promotional events, Chonghui Hantang has seen a significant increase in traffic and sales. Their cross-category collaborations have also helped them tap into new customer segments.
Cao County: The Epicenter of China’s Hanfu Industry
In 2024, Cao County (曹县) has solidified its position as the undisputed hub of China’s Hanfu industry, with annual sales exceeding 10 billion yuan ($1.4 billion) and capturing over half of the national market share. This small county in Shandong Province has become the largest cluster for original Hanfu production in China, transforming itself into a powerhouse of traditional fashion innovation and manufacturing.
What sets Cao County apart is its unparalleled efficiency and scale. The county has achieved a remarkable level of industrial clustering, with production facilities for both performance costumes and Hanfu concentrated within a 5-kilometer radius. This tight-knit ecosystem has fostered a complete supply chain, from design and production to branding and distribution. With a daily output of 500,000 finished garments, Cao County boasts not only massive production capacity but also a strong emphasis on original design and innovation.
Wang Qian, a member of the Cao County Standing Committee and head of the Propaganda Department, highlighted the county’s unique advantages. “Our strength lies in our integrated approach—combining R&D, production, and sales under one roof,” she explained. “We’ve built a robust online and offline sales network, expanded into downstream applications, and established strong partnerships with academic institutions for research and development. Additionally, government policies have been instrumental in supporting our growth.”
The Future of Hanfu Market
As we move further into 2024, the Hanfu market shows no signs of slowing down. With continued government support, growing consumer interest, and innovative designs that blend tradition with modernity, Hanfu is poised to become a global fashion phenomenon. Brands are already exploring international markets, and it’s only a matter of time before we see Hanfu-inspired designs on runways in Paris, New York, and beyond.
For now, though, the focus remains on China, where Hanfu continues to evolve and adapt to the needs of a new generation. Whether you’re a history buff, a fashion enthusiast, or simply someone looking to add a touch of tradition to your wardrobe, there’s never been a better time to embrace the Hanfu renaissance.
Final Thoughts
The Hanfu revival is more than just a fashion trend—it’s a cultural movement. By blending the old with the new, it’s creating a unique space where tradition and modernity coexist. And with platforms like JD.com leading the charge, the future of Hanfu looks brighter than ever. So, whether you’re a seasoned Hanfu enthusiast or a curious newcomer, now’s the time to dive in and explore this fascinating world of fashion.
In Japan and Korea, just about every woman has a kimono or hanbok ensemble for formal occasions (I have personally observed this at conferences. Unfortunately, the men still just wore western suits). When huafu becomes incorporated into the daily lives of regular people then it won't just be a movement.