Ancient Chinese wisdom distilled clothing choices into simple truths: light robes for summer, padded jackets for winter. But look closer, and you’ll find a nuanced system—24 solar terms (节气), 72 micro-seasons (物候), and festivals each demanding specific colors and motifs. This wasn’t just practicality; it was a silent dialogue between humans and the rhythms of nature..
Chapter 1: Lunar New Year (春节)
The tradition of wearing new clothes for the Lunar New Year is widespread in Chinese culture. Regardless of social class, people are expected to wear their finest attire to usher in the new year. For officials and those of higher status, formal ceremonial clothing is a must. The colors of these garments—red, blue, yellow, white, and black—offer a range of options, but certain traditions guide their use. White is typically worn for mourning, red symbolizes celebration, and yellow was reserved for emperors after the Tang Dynasty. Red, blue, and black are more common, with red standing out as a symbol of prosperity, joy, and good fortune.
Throughout the New Year festivities, red decorations such as firecrackers, lanterns, and spring couplets (春联) fill the environment, creating an atmosphere of happiness and festivity. Red has become the hallmark of wealth and success. In Dream of the Red Chamber (红楼梦), Baoyu’s preference for red clothing aligns with the festive spirit of the season.
1. Shenyi (深衣)
For those opting for traditional attire, the Shenyi is a great choice. This garment can be made from thick fabrics like brocade cotton or jacquard silk and offers warmth during the cold New Year period. It can be layered for extra warmth and paired with a cape for additional comfort. Hairstyles can vary, from simple hairbands to more elaborate hairpins and ornaments.
2. Ming-style jacket and skirt
Another option is the Ming-style jacket and skirt. The single-layer version is known as the shan, while the double-layered ao offers more warmth. These pieces are ideal for the colder weather and can be lined for extra insulation. The Ming-style jackets come in various styles, such as cross-collared short jackets and long jackets with vertical collars, often paired with pleated or Ma Mian skirts. Accessories like Yingluo (璎珞) necklaces, made of gold or silver, add an extra touch of luxury.
3. Cloak (doupeng, 斗篷)
When visiting family or attending temple fairs during the New Year, a thick, warm cloak or cloak is a practical choice. As the traditional cloak lacks sleeves, pairing it with a matching handbag or lotus-leaf purse ensures that personal belongings can be carried. A pipa sleeve (琵琶袖) jacket is also a comfortable option, with sleeves offering a convenient place to store small items, embodying the saying "sleeves hold the universe".
The Lunar New Year is the perfect occasion to enjoy family time, embrace traditional customs, and celebrate with Hanfu, making the festivities even more meaningful.
Chapter 2: Lantern Festival (元宵节)
The Lantern Festival marks the end of the Lunar New Year celebrations with a night filled with lights, colorful clothing, and vibrant energy. This festive occasion calls for bright, cheerful colors like red, blue, and green, which embody the joy and excitement of the season. Historically, as depicted in the Ming Emperor Xianzong Enjoying the Lantern Festival (明宪宗元宵行乐图), people wore these lively hues to celebrate, and they continue to be popular choices today.
1. Ming-style jacket and skirt
For a traditional look, the Ming-style jacket and skirt is a great option. This garment, often in rich reds, greens, and blues, suits the festive mood while offering warmth, especially in colder northern regions. The jacket's layered design is both stylish and practical, perfect for enjoying lantern displays or temple fairs. Don’t forget to pair it with a thick cloak to stay warm.
2. Ruqun
If you're in a warmer city or prefer something lighter, the ruqun is an elegant choice. This two-piece outfit, with a short top and long skirt, is reminiscent of the graceful women in Tang Dynasty paintings. Pair it with a lantern, and you’ll have a perfect look for a peaceful stroll under the lanterns.
3. Round-collared robe (圆领袍)
For a more casual option, the round-collared robe offers comfort and style. Popularized in dramas like Palace of Desire (大明宫词), this robe is easy to wear and practical for walking through busy Lantern Festival celebrations. Whether paired with trousers or a skirt, it offers both flexibility and elegance.
The Lantern Festival is a time for vibrant celebrations, and with the right attire, you can embrace the beauty and excitement of the season in style.
Chapter 3: Shangsi Festival (上巳节)
The Shangsi Festival, celebrated in early spring, is a time for enjoying the outdoors and appreciating nature’s renewal. As temperatures warm, people shed heavy winter clothes for lighter, colorful garments, reflecting the season’s vibrancy. Here are some Hanfu choices inspired by this festival:
1. Ruqun
For a classic Wei-Jin style, the ruqun with a crossed-collar top and wide sleeves is perfect for the Shangsi Festival. Made from silk, cotton, or chiffon, it embodies the airy elegance of ancient scholars. This look is ideal for spring outings or gathering with friends, offering both comfort and grace.
2. Zaju (杂裾)
The zaju from the Wei-Jin period features layered silk decorations and fluttering ribbons, giving a soft, flowing appearance. This style, which evolved over time, now features pointed hems and long trailing ribbons. It's a beautiful choice for a graceful, ethereal look in spring.
3. Chest-high Ruqun
For a Tang dynasty-inspired look, the Chest-high ruqun consists of a short top and long skirt, perfect for spring’s lightness. Made from silk or thin cotton, colors like peach pink and willow green reflect the season's mood. A cloak or wide-sleeved top can be added for cooler days.
4. Round-collared Robe
The round-collared robe offers comfort and practicality. Worn with trousers and boots, it’s an ideal choice for outdoor activities. Popular during the Tang dynasty, it’s a simple yet stylish option, especially for those looking for a relaxed, elegant look.
The Shangsi Festival invites us to embrace spring with elegance. Whether you choose the ethereal ruqun or the practical round-collared robe, your Hanfu will reflect the beauty of the season.
Chapter 4: Qingming Festival (清明节)
The Qingming Festival occurs during the blooming season, making it a perfect time to wear graceful and light Hanfu styles. Ruqun and aoqun (袄裙) are excellent choices for this time of year. The cross-collared ruqun, the chest-high ruqun, and the open-collared ruqun are ideal for the Qingming outings, whether you’re walking through the vibrant flower fields or enjoying the spring air. A Ming-style cross-collared long coat paired with a horse-face skirt (马面裙) exudes elegance and tranquility, making it a serene choice for the festival.
For accessories, it’s best to choose items that complement the color of your outfit, such as jade hairpins (烧色玉簪花), hair crowns (发冠), hairpins (发钗), and tassel ornaments (步摇). You may also add a flowy scarf (披帛) or a mitzi (幂篱) silk hat for a more delicate look. The bright, contrasting colors of your Hanfu will beautifully complement the blooming flowers, creating a lively and vibrant atmosphere, while softer hues like pale pinks or light blues evoke a sense of elegance and calmness.
As the festival aligns with the blooming season, it’s the perfect time to wear Hanfu while heading outdoors to enjoy the blossoms. After paying respects to ancestors, one can fly kites high into the sky, letting the wind carry away worries and ease the mind. With Qingming often being a rainy season, it’s wise to bring along an oiled-paper umbrella for protection.
Qingming is a festival that invites reflection, rejuvenation, and connection with nature, and Hanfu serves as a beautiful way to honor this tradition.
Chapter 5: Dragon Boat Festival (端午节)
The Dragon Boat Festival falls during the hot summer months, making it an ideal time to wear light, breathable Hanfu styles like ruqun , shanqun (衫裙), and beizi (褙子). Among these, the chest-high ruqun, gauze shirts, and beizi are the most appropriate choices. Fabrics such as thin cotton and silk are preferred for their comfort in the heat. When it comes to colors, consider hues inspired by seasonal flowers, such as the blue-purple or rose-red of hydrangeas, or the vivid red of pomegranate flowers.
1. Ruqun
The narrow-sleeved ruqun and chest-high ruqun are some of the most common Hanfu combinations for spring and summer. These garments are typically made from silk or cotton, providing comfort while maintaining the elegant appearance associated with Hanfu.
2. Beizi
Beizi and gauze shirts are staple summer garments. The Song-style beizi is usually paired with Song-style pants (宋裤) or a chest-high ruqun, and can be worn over a main waist garment (主腰) or a modern tube top. You may also layer the beizi over a cross-collared inner garment, creating a beautiful layering effect. For an additional touch of style, consider combining beizi in different colors to highlight their contrasting beauty.
During the Dragon Boat Festival, it is customary to bathe in sweet flag to cleanse the body and wear five-colored strings as charms. Adorned in Hanfu, you can enjoy the festive activities with family, whether watching the exciting dragon boat races on the shore or sailing leisurely in a boat on a peaceful lake. The experience is not only refreshing but also deeply enjoyable.
Chapter 6: Qixi Festival (七夕节)
During the Qixi Festival, which takes place in the hot summer months, a small fan is an essential accessory. The clothing for this occasion should be light and simple, avoiding heavy or intricate designs. Ideal choices include Ruqun, Shanqun, and Beizi, made from breathable fabrics like cotton, linen, silk, or chiffon. For colors, you can choose solid shades or floral patterns.
One elegant option is a wide-sleeved Ruqun paired with a Tang-style hairpin, resembling the graceful image of a lady in Du Mu's poem "Qixi." Imagine the quiet autumn night illuminated by silver candlelight, a lady gently fanning herself with a silk fan, as fireflies dance around her. The cool night invites her to gaze at the stars, with the Niulang Star (牛郎星) and Zhinu Star (织女星) shining brightly.
For a simpler yet equally graceful look, consider a Chiffon Shirt worn with a waistband, paired with Song-style pants. This combination is both chic and modest, embodying the essence of the festival. For accessories, subtle and elegant pieces like Burnt Blue Enamel (烧蓝) or pearl jewelry are perfect.
On Qixi Festival, wearing traditional Hanfu, holding a delicate fan, and enjoying the serene moonlit night while gazing at the stars captures the poetic beauty of the holiday.
Chapter 7: Mid-Autumn Festival (中秋节)
The Mid-Autumn Festival is marked by a bright, full moon and the famous legend of Chang'e, the Moon Goddess. The celebration calls for Hanfu that is light, flowing, and elegant, mirroring the moonlit night. Common choices include ruqun, shanqun, and beizi, often made from soft materials like silk and chiffon. For colors, the hues of the moon—such as moon-white, egg-yellow, and honey-gold—can be complemented by brighter tones like cyan, purple, or pink.
1. Beizi
The beizi is often paired with a fitted waist or modern-style strapless top. This can be complemented with a mid-waist skirt or Song-style pants, adding a refined touch with embroidered shoes. A simple hairstyle is recommended to maintain the clean, understated elegance of the look.
2. Chest-high Ruqun
A classic choice for the Mid-Autumn Festival is the Chest-high ruqun. This traditional outfit can be paired with Qiaotou shoes (翘头履) and accessorized with a double-ring bun or Feitianji (飞天髻). For added grace, decorative hairpins with tassels are ideal for this festive occasion.
Chapter 8: Double Ninth Festival (重阳节)
As the lunar calendar enters the ninth month, the weather begins to cool, and the Chinese saying "spring wraps, autumn freezes" comes to mind. In northern China, the autumn "tiger" heat is still lingering, making it suitable to wear breathable, lightweight clothing. Whether opting for a Tang dynasty ruqun or a Song dynasty beizi, both are perfect choices for the season. During this time, it's common to join elderly family members, wear a chrysanthemum flower hairpin, and enjoy activities like climbing mountains, visiting gardens, drinking chrysanthemum wine, and eating hairy crabs, all in harmony with the season.
1. Ruqun
The ruqun should be made from cotton, linen, or silk, with colors that harmonize with the surrounding landscape. For garden strolls or flower viewing, choose a more subdued-colored ruqun to avoid clashing with the vivid hues of the flowers. If hiking in the mountains, bright colors such as red or blue are more fitting. As the weather fluctuates with cool mornings and evenings, consider layering a large-sleeved shirt (大袖衫) over the ruqun. If there's wind or sand, a mitzi silk hat can be added for protection. The ruqun is often paired with a Tang-style hairstyle, where the hair is neatly arranged in an updo, adorned with hairpins, pearls, and tassels.
2. Song-style Beizi
The long beizi from the Song dynasty evokes the image of the gentle, reserved women of that time. Unlike the bold, wide-sleeved garments of the Tang dynasty, the Song-style beizi features narrow sleeves and a more fitted silhouette. The color palette is typically simple, allowing the subtle beauty of the garment to shine. Colors such as honeycomb yellow paired with rose red create a soft, harmonious look. The Song-style beizi is best made from silk, but cotton, chiffon, and blended fabrics are also suitable. The outfit is often paired with a waist-length skirt, while the hairstyle is simple with some hair pinned up and the rest left flowing. Accessories should be minimal to maintain an elegant and understated aesthetic.
3. Vertical-collar Silk Shirt (竖领纱衫)
The vertical-collar silk shirt is another excellent option for the Double Ninth Festival, particularly in warmer climates. Made from silk or silk-blend fabrics, it provides light coverage while maintaining a breathable feel. The shirt is usually worn with a waist-length skirt, and its color can match the beizi with either solid colors or subtle prints. Hair styling for this look is simple, with a low updo or a few strands left to cascade down the front, decorated with minimal hairpins and floral accessories. The look emphasizes simplicity and elegance, with a refined and harmonious style.
In the glow where neon lights meet paper lanterns, Hanfu has transcended museum relics to become a living cultural epic woven into urban life. From brocade cloaks rustling amid New Year firecrackers to translucent beizi fluttering under autumn moons, every embroidered thread whispers the ancient wisdom of "moving in rhythm with the seasons." These sartorial legacies, encoded over millennia, map not only China’s reverence for nature and ancestry but also a bold aesthetic rebellion by today’s youth—reclaiming heritage as both homage and self-expression. We wear more than silk and stitches: we drape ourselves in a civilization’s poetic chronicle of time. True cultural continuity lies not in dusty scrolls, but in moonlight made tangible—a shimmering fabric of memory and renewal, draped across the shoulders of the present.
