If you spotted a character in a historical drama twirling in a pink, pleated dress and thought, Wow, that looks surprisingly modern, you're not alone. The outfit in question, featured in The Glory (雁回时), closely resembles a contemporary flared dress, but it actually belongs to a category of Ming Dynasty garments known as tieli (贴里). This style, along with the similar yesa (曳撒), reflects a fascinating blend of influences, practicality, and visual appeal—so much so that modern designers could easily take inspiration from it.
Tieli vs. Yesa: Not Just for Women
At first glance, tieli and yesa might look like elegant, structured dresses, but in the Ming Dynasty, they were primarily worn by men. Both originated under the influence of Yuan-Mongol styles but were later adapted into Han Chinese fashion. The key difference? Yesa features a smooth front panel known as a Mamian (马面), while tieli is characterized by full pleats from top to bottom. These structured garments were designed for mobility, making them popular choices for officials, scholars, and even military figures.
While women occasionally wore these garments, it was often as part of cross-dressing trends in dramas or plays, where they took on male roles. Today, it’s not unusual to see costumed actors and historical fashion enthusiasts embracing these styles regardless of gender—because, honestly, who wouldn't want to wear something that looks this good while moving?
A Distant Cousin of Feiyu Fu?
If yesa and tieli seem vaguely familiar, it might be because of the recent revival of Feiyu fu (飞鱼服), often associated with the Ming Dynasty’s elite guards. However, feiyu doesn’t refer to the garment itself but rather to the embroidered design featuring a flying fish—a symbol of high-ranking imperial favor. While some feiyu fu took on the shape of yesa or tieli, others featured variations such as high collars or diagonal lapels. The takeaway? These garments weren’t exclusive to the Jinyiwei (锦衣卫), the Ming secret police, despite how pop culture tends to depict them.
Functionality That Holds Up Today
Beyond aesthetics, the design of tieli and yesa had practical benefits:
Ease of Movement: The mid-length cut made them ideal for walking, riding, or even combat, offering flexibility without the restrictions of floor-length robes.
Pleats for Flair and Function: The pleated lower section allowed for natural draping and movement, ensuring wearers looked composed while also benefiting from a structured silhouette.
Pipa Sleeves (琵琶袖): Named after the pipa, a traditional Chinese instrument, these sleeves tapered at the wrist, preventing drafts while maintaining a flowing, elegant shape.
The Detachable Huling (护领): A white fabric strip at the neckline, the huling was an early version of a removable collar, designed to be washed separately. Given that full garments were not laundered frequently in the past, this was both a practical and stylish solution.
Why This Style Still Works Today
Seeing tieli and yesa in modern media reminds us that fashion trends are cyclical. The structured pleats, the balanced cut, and even the sleeve designs wouldn’t feel out of place in a contemporary wardrobe. With a few tweaks, these Ming Dynasty outfits could easily translate into street fashion or high-end runway pieces.
So next time you see an actor in one of these historical garments, don’t just call it a feiyu fu—it might just be a tieli or a yesa, standing the test of time.
