The opulent red gown worn by the character of Empress Miao in the historical drama The Glory (雁回时) has left viewers in awe. With its vibrant crimson hue, intricate details, and dramatic silhouette, it conjures up images of Dream of the Red Chamber (红楼梦), especially the scene where the imperial consort visits the imperial court in a ceremonial outfit. Could it be a nod to a regal garment from the Ming Dynasty, the mangpao (蟒袍), a dress that exudes both power and ceremony?
The outfit Miao Guifei (苗贵妃) wears in The Glory isn't just any costume—it's an interpretation of the mangpao, a traditional Ming Dynasty ceremonial gown typically worn by high-ranking officials and imperial family members. The gown’s structure is a perfect balance between grandiosity and elegance, characterized by its round collar, long robe length, and the iconic mang (蟒) dragon motif embroidered onto the fabric. The mangpao was often reserved for the most important occasions, worn by figures of the highest stature, such as empresses or consorts.
In the case of Miao Guifei, the attire suggests not only her high rank but her formidable presence—no wonder viewers felt like this was more than just a royal entrance; it had the weight of a coronation in the air.
The Design and Symbolism of the Mangpao
The mangpao is a garment with deep cultural and symbolic roots. Its intricate designs, such as the mang motif (representing the mighty dragon) and the use of red and gold colors, are emblematic of the highest echelons of Ming society. The color red, in particular, carries significant meaning, as it was considered to be the color of fire and thus associated with vitality and fortune.
During the Ming Dynasty, officials adhered to strict color codes based on the Five Elements theory, and red, symbolizing fire, became the dominant hue for formal attire. The mangpao in a bright red, as seen in Miao Guifei’s gown, was not just about luxury—it was about power, auspiciousness, and status.
The dragon motif itself is notable. In traditional Chinese culture, dragons are mythological creatures symbolizing strength and imperial authority. For high-ranking individuals, wearing the mangpao adorned with dragons would have made an unmistakable statement: they were connected to the emperor's divine right to rule. In some cases, this garment was even considered a ceremonial item meant to signify the emperor’s mandate.
Zhuanghua (妆花) Embroidery
One of the most striking aspects of the mangpao is its exquisite craftsmanship. From a distance, the lavish patterns may appear as simple floral designs, but a closer look reveals the complexity of the zhuanghua (妆花) embroidery technique. This embroidery style, which first emerged during the Ming Dynasty, involved weaving colorful threads into fabric to create intricate, textured motifs.
The process of zhuanghua is not for the faint-hearted—it requires exceptional skill and precision, making it a mark of high-end craftsmanship. Historically, it was used in royal and ceremonial robes, with designs varying from birds and flowers to more abstract patterns. It’s a labor-intensive technique, and its prevalence in garments like the mangpao speaks to the wealth and resources of those who wore them.
Interestingly, this embroidery technique wasn’t just limited to red robes. The mangpao was also seen in a variety of colors, from emerald greens to rich purple tones, each signifying different aspects of the wearer’s rank and status. The use of such vibrant hues and fine craftsmanship made the mangpao a dazzling sight, whether worn by men or women.
The Jade Belt
Another defining feature of the mangpao is the Yudai (玉带), or jade belt. In the Ming Dynasty, the jade belt wasn’t just a functional accessory; it was an important symbol of one’s status and position. The number of jade plates on the belt indicated the wearer’s rank, with those at the top of the hierarchy sporting belts with 20 or more plates. The yudai was often paired with the mangpao to create an elegant and regal look, enhancing the wearer’s status and reinforcing their position in society.
The belt was typically fastened with a leather loop, much like the belt loops seen on modern trench coats, providing both function and style. The weight of the jade could be heavy, which is why the belt was designed with extra support, preventing it from slipping as the wearer moved.
The Women's Version: Headgear and Symbolic Accessories
While men usually paired the mangpao with a traditional wusha hat (乌纱帽), women had their own distinct way of accessorizing this regal attire. Women’s versions of the mangpao were paired with the zhi guan (翟冠) or feathered crown and tiao pai (挑牌), a decorative plaque worn in the hair. These accessories were symbols of power and prestige, and in the case of Miao Guifei in The Glory, the zhi guan was substituted for a more stylized feathered headpiece, aligning with the show’s interpretation of the historical costume.
Interestingly, the portrayal of accessories in The Glory does take some liberties with historical accuracy. For example, the oversized sleeves of the mangpao in the drama were adapted for cinematic effect, as traditional versions typically had tightly tapered sleeves or pipa sleeves (琵琶袖) designed to fit snugly around the wrist. But these small details don't detract from the larger picture of how traditional garments continue to inform modern interpretations of history.
The elegance and dignity of Ming Dynasty fashion have much to offer in terms of style and cultural legacy. It's clear: for those seeking a combination of power, grace, and grandeur, there’s nothing quite like the allure of the mangpao.
