At Fujian Museum’s latest exhibition, visitors aren’t just seeing artifacts—they’re meeting fashion. Four reconstructed outfits from Huang Sheng, a Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279) noblewoman, have taken center stage, merging historical accuracy with runway-ready appeal. These garments, originally featured in National Treasure Season 4, reveal how designer Zhang Ting reimagined 800-year-old textiles for modern audiences.
The exhibition coincides with the popular Chinese cultural series’ new season, showcasing garments worn by actress Chen Duling during her portrayal of Huang Sheng. From indigo-dyed floral patterns to gold-accented embroidery, each piece tells a story about how Song aristocrats dressed—and how contemporary designers interpret their legacy.
The Closet Time Forgot
Discovered in a 13th-century tomb in Fuzhou, Huang Sheng’s wardrobe became a sartorial Rosetta Stone. Her 354 burial garments revealed unexpected details: lightweight floral silks, metallic threadwork, and color palettes that defied the "muted antiquity" stereotype.
Zhang Ting’s reconstructions highlight three key pieces:
- A blue camellia-patterned Beizi (褙子, a traditional Song Dynasty outer garment) with embroidered lotus borders
- A purple peony-and-crabapple Daxiu Shan (大袖衫, wide-sleeved robe) featuring gradient dye techniques
- A pink peony-and-osmanthus Chang Beizi (长褙子, long outer coat) using replicated Song-era brocade
"These aren’t costumes—they’re wearable archaeology," explains museum curator Lin Wei. "Zhang’s team studied fabric samples under microscopes to match weaving patterns exactly."
Threads Through Time
What makes these reconstructions groundbreaking isn’t their museum-grade accuracy, but their wearability. The original tomb textiles, while exquisite, were fragmented and faded. Zhang’s team collaborated with Suzhou silk experts to recreate luo (罗, a type of openwork silk) using traditional looms, then adjusted proportions for modern body types.
Actress Chen Duling’s cerulean Beizi demonstrates this balance. While its hexagonal camellia motifs copy tomb textiles stitch-for-stitch, the cut accommodates broader shoulders—a subtle nod to 21st-century physiques. The gold-speckled embroidery along the hem? That’s pure 13th-century opulence, recreated from Huang Sheng’s burial accessories.
The Designer’s Playbook
Zhang Ting, the creative force behind these pieces, approaches historical fashion like a detective. For the peony robe’s gradient hues, she reverse-engineered dye formulas from thread remnants. When reconstructing a Baidie Qun (百迭裙, pleated skirt), she referenced Song poetry describing "ripples formed by layered silk."
Her philosophy? "Respect the past, but don’t treat it as untouchable. These clothes were someone’s daily wear—they should feel alive." This mindset has made her a go-to designer for cultural programs like China in Classics and Once Upon a Book.
Fujian Museum’s exhibition runs through June 2025, offering a rare look at how historical research intersects with haute couture. For visitors, it’s a chance to see history not behind glass, but on the hanger.
