Purple, often associated with royalty and nobility, has long been considered a color of prestige and power. In ancient China, it was widely believed that commoners were forbidden from wearing purple, reserved exclusively for the elite. But was this truly the case? The answer, as it turns out, is more nuanced than a simple yes or no.
The Origins of Purple’s Prestige
The perception of purple as a noble color stems from two main factors: the high cost of purple dye and the influence of class systems and cultural trends. However, it’s important to note that not all shades of purple were created equal. The color spectrum includes countless variations, and not every hue was off-limits to the general populace.
The Cost of Purple Dye
Purple dye was indeed expensive to produce. One of the most common sources of purple dye was the murasaki plant, while another was sappanwood, which yielded a different shade of purple. However, plant-based dyes were less stable and durable compared to mineral-based alternatives.
During the Han Dynasty, a breakthrough occurred with the discovery of "Han Purple," a synthetic pigment made from barium copper silicate. This vibrant hue, found on the terracotta warriors of the Qin Dynasty, was considered a technological marvel of its time. The production of Han Purple was complex and labor-intensive, making it even more valuable than plant-based dyes.
Purple and Social Hierarchy
Purple’s association with nobility was further cemented by historical events and cultural practices. One notable example dates back to the reign of Duke Huan of Qi (齐桓公). According to Han Feizi (韩非子), the duke’s fondness for purple clothing sparked a nationwide trend, driving up the price of purple fabric to five times that of ordinary cloth. To curb this extravagance, Duke Huan stopped wearing purple, and within days, the trend vanished. This episode, known as "The Purple Robe of Qi," highlights the influence of rulers on fashion and social norms.
During the Han Dynasty, purple was officially designated as a color for emperors and high-ranking officials. By the Tang and Song Dynasties, deep purple became the official color for robes worn by officials of the third rank and above, second only to red in prestige.
Purple for the People
Despite its elite associations, purple was not entirely inaccessible to commoners. In the Song Dynasty, restrictions on certain shades of purple, such as "ink purple" (a near-black hue), were lifted, allowing people of all social classes to wear the color. Advances in ceramic glazes during this period also popularized purple in everyday objects, further democratizing its use.
Throughout history, phrases like "wearing gold and purple" or "gold seal with purple ribbon" symbolized high status and wealth. However, by the Ming Dynasty, purple fell out of favor due to the imperial family’s preference for red and the belief that purple "usurped" the prominence of red. Purple official robes were eventually abolished, but lighter shades of purple remained accessible to the general public.
A Color for All
While deep, rich purples were often reserved for the elite due to the cost and complexity of their production, lighter shades of purple were widely worn by commoners. The notion that purple was entirely off-limits to the lower classes is a myth rooted in oversimplification. In reality, purple’s journey through Chinese history reflects a complex interplay of economics, culture, and social hierarchy.
Today, purple continues to captivate as a symbol of elegance and mystery, its rich history serving as a reminder of the enduring connection between color and culture. Whether adorning the robes of emperors or the garments of everyday people, purple remains a testament to the artistry and ingenuity of ancient China.
