Nestled within the lush green expanses of Jingmai (景迈) Mountain in southwestern China, the village and its surrounding tea groves are more than just scenic wonders. Here, generations of tea farmers from the Dai (傣族) and Blang (布朗族) ethnic groups have cultivated one of the oldest and most expansive tea forests in the world. For over a thousand years, these indigenous communities have adhered to traditional, nature-centered methods of tea cultivation.
Among these, one tree stands out—its massive trunk, measuring 1.4 meters in diameter, and sprawling branches create an imposing crown that casts a powerful presence in the forest. Unlike the neat rows of short tea plants found in commercial plantations across China, this ancient tree grows in wild, unkempt beauty. It is here that the spiritual and agricultural lives of the tea farmers intertwine, as they pray for bountiful harvests, honoring the spirits of their ancestors, including the revered "Tea Spirit," Pai Leng (帕哎冷), who is considered the father of tea.
Yuan Rong, 41, and his wife, Ke Lan Fang, 36, are part of a family that has been cultivating tea for generations. Standing before this ancient tree, they express their reverence and pride in a tradition that has been passed down through the centuries. "This tree is over a thousand years old," Yuan Rong says proudly, pointing to the massive trunk. Yet, even as they embrace the sacred connection between their people and the land, they face challenges that threaten the future of their tea farming practices. Despite the rising demand for their high-quality tea and its soaring prices, the farmers must contend with the unpredictable challenges posed by climate change and other environmental pressures.
The Founding of Tea Cultivation
The roots of Jingmai's tea culture trace back to the 10th century, with the legendary figure of Pai Leng, who is considered the "Tea Ancestor" by the Blang people. According to oral histories, Pai Leng led his tribe to settle in Jingmai, where he discovered the medicinal properties of wild tea trees and began cultivating them. His teachings on tea farming, passed down through generations, have shaped the beliefs and practices of today's tea farmers.
For the Blang people, cultivating tea is a spiritual practice as much as an agricultural one. Unlike the monoculture tea plantations commonly found around the world, the tea groves of Jingmai are a diverse and thriving ecosystem. The canopy of trees provides shade for the tea plants, while the ground is covered with ferns and herbaceous plants that help maintain soil moisture and offer habitats for local wildlife.
The Unique Tea Legacy of Jingmai Mountain
Globally, tea is the second most consumed beverage, after water. People drink over 170 billion liters of tea each year, ranging from green and black teas to oolong varieties. While tea has spread across the globe, from India to the Americas, all tea comes from a common ancestor: the Camellia sinensis plant. In the early 19th century, British colonizers introduced tea to India, disrupting China's monopoly on the global tea market. Yet, one specific variety of tea still remains closely linked to Jingmai Mountain.
The tea cultivated here is a variety of large-leaf tea, which is used to produce the world-famous Pu'er tea. Jingmai's tea groves, located at altitudes between 1,250 and 1,550 meters, are often shrouded in mist, with cool temperatures that nurture tea leaves of exceptional quality. The unique climate imparts a distinctive fragrance and rich flavor to the tea, making it a favorite among tea connoisseurs worldwide. Known for its rich, complex flavors, Pu'er tea has earned a reputation as "drinkable antiques," with some varieties aged for over a decade, further enhancing their depth and richness. Pu'er is compared to fine wine—its flavor becomes more refined and nuanced with time, and like vintage wines, it is increasingly valuable as it ages.
Sustainable Agriculture and the Wisdom of the Forest
In contrast to the industrialized, high-yield tea farms that dominate much of China, Jingmai's tea farming practices reflect a deep respect for nature. The farmers use no pesticides or herbicides, and they avoid aggressive pruning methods that could harm the forest's delicate balance. Instead, the tea trees are carefully maintained, with grass being manually cut between them only twice a year.
This sustainable approach has proven to be not only effective but also more biodiverse. Recent studies by the China Ethnic University found that tea leaves from high-altitude tea trees in Jingmai are less bitter than those grown at lower altitudes. Additionally, the biodiversity of the region's forests is much richer compared to that of commercial tea plantations. In fact, tea from Jingmai currently commands prices up to 6.5 times higher than those from standard tea farms.
However, these traditional methods were not always financially viable. During Yuan Rong's childhood, his family lived in poverty, with little market demand for their tea. In the second half of the 20th century, most of China's tea farmers embraced large-scale, high-output tea plantations, which left the ancient tea groves in Jingmai largely untouched. When other tea farmers in Yunnan uprooted their ancient tea forests to make way for faster-growing, higher-yield varieties, the people of Jingmai remained committed to preserving their legacy.
Call for Balance
In the early 2000s, Jingmai Mountain, long known for its ancient tea traditions, began to experience a dramatic shift. The Chinese government invested heavily in infrastructure, constructing new roads and providing electricity to rural areas. These developments, while improving living conditions, also opened the gates to new tea merchants, external influences, and increasing challenges for the local community.
While these changes brought new opportunities and information, they also led some villagers down a path that threatened the delicate balance of their tea cultivation practices. In a bid to modernize and increase profits, some tea farmers began to cut down trees to build new houses for incoming guests, while others experimented with fertilizing the ancient tea trees or pruning them, disrupting the traditional ways that had been passed down through generations.
At the heart of this transformation was the preservation of Jingmai's ancient tea culture. In one Blang family, fresh tea leaves were carefully sorted and prepared into tea cakes. These leaves, sourced from large-leaf tea trees, were used for various types of black tea. The process of hand-rolling the tea leaves during Pu'er tea production is a crucial step, as it helps develop the rich flavor profile that improves with age.
In 2003, the community's collective mindset began to change. Su Guowen, a retired primary school teacher and a self-proclaimed descendant of Pai Leng, the legendary "Tea Ancestor," took it upon himself to address the growing threat to their traditions. During a community meeting, Su quoted Pai Leng's teachings, urging the villagers to "protect the forest as you would your own eyes." He argued that while adhering to ancient practices might temporarily sacrifice some profits, it would ultimately benefit future generations.
Village leader Yan Sanyong echoed this sentiment, rallying the Dai villagers to protect the environment they had carefully nurtured. Together, they enforced a ban on excessive deforestation and the use of chemicals in tea farming. Their commitment to sustainable farming was further strengthened by collaboration with local government efforts to preserve Jingmai's tea culture
By 2010, these efforts gained significant momentum. Elder villagers, working with government officials, began the formal process of applying for World Heritage recognition. In addition to road checks to prevent the introduction of foreign species, authorities built stone roads to protect the aroma of the tea, as asphalt might have affected the delicate fragrance. These steps were part of a broader strategy to preserve the region's unique tea cultivation practices and traditional architecture.
Stay True to Tradition, Open Doors to New Customers
In the home of tea farmer Ke Lanfang in Manghong Village, she prepares raw Pu'er tea for her family, first using the Blang people's charcoal roasting technique to infuse the leaves with a smoky aroma before pouring in the water. When serving customers, she omits this step.
As the value of Jingmai tea continues to rise, some residents in remote areas have found new ways to connect with consumers. Dai tea farmer Ai Yong has boldly innovated, moving away from traditional trade methods and introducing the taste and aroma of his Pu'er tea to tea enthusiasts across China through live streaming.
During a family prayer ceremony, Yanrong and his wife Ke Lanfang joined in the spring harvest, an ancient practice requiring full concentration. Members of the Blang, Dai, and other ethnic groups wore light shoes and carried large baskets, nimbly navigating the rugged tea fields.
They carefully observed the ancient trees, searching for the tenderest buds, and delicately stepped through the branches to pluck the leaves by hand. This careful approach ensures nothing is damaged and that the dried leaves will unfurl perfectly during brewing.
Once their baskets are filled with fresh leaves, Yanrong and Ke Lanfang bring them home to begin the intricate process of tea making. They first spread the leaves to slightly wither, while Ke Lanfang prepares firewood for the crucial steaming process (also called "kill green"), which halts further decomposition of the leaves. Next, Yanrong stir-fries the leaves in a hot pan to prevent oxidation, filling the room with a pleasant fragrance.
After the leaves cool, Ke Lanfang begins the meticulous hand-rolling process, gently pressing each leaf to break its cells and release more flavor. The leaves are then carefully spread out to dry, after which they can be pressed, packaged, and aged. This raw Pu'er tea requires ten years or more of aging to reach its peak.
Once the tea is pressed into cakes, it is ready for aging. Wrapped in paper, it is left undisturbed for several years. Many tea producers age their tea cakes for decades. Blang tea farmer San has built a special storage room to better control the temperature and humidity during the aging process. He and his apprentice Wang Daxiong check the aging progress of the Pu'er tea in Wengji Village.
Global Tea Producers
For many years, tea farmers like Yuan Rong and his family struggled with meager profits from their tea farms. Despite producing high-quality tea, their earnings were low, and they faced significant economic challenges. In 2015, Yuan Rong and his wife decided to take a bold step—they partnered with a high-end tea brand specializing in premium Pu'er tea. This decision transformed their fortunes.
Now, their agricultural cooperative employs local workers and processes tea from 37 different households, producing about one ton of Pu'er tea each year. The tea is pressed into cakes, aged, and packaged for sale. A single 357-gram cake of aged Pu'er tea can fetch up to 2,388 yuan (approximately 350 USD). This is a significant leap from the modest income they once earned. Today, Yuan Rong and his family enjoy an annual income of around 200,000 to 300,000 yuan, a figure far above the average for families in nearby Huimin Town.
In Wengji Village, one of the nine villages on Jingmai Mountain, a Blang man can be seen drying tea leaves in his courtyard. The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) praised this village and the nearby Nuogang Village for preserving their traditional architectural styles. This preservation of both culture and architecture played a key role in Jingmai's successful application for World Heritage status.
In 2022, Jingmai Mountain was officially recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, making it the only place in the world to be listed for its cultural connection to tea cultivation. This recognition has elevated the status of Jingmai's tea and the farmers who produce it. The price of tea has doubled since the proposal for UNESCO recognition was first made over a decade ago, and the area's tea culture is attracting international attention.
Facing Modern Challenges
However, the changing climate poses serious challenges for the farmers who rely on these trees for their livelihoods. As unpredictable weather patterns become more frequent, the delicate eco-system of Jingmai Mountain is facing pressures that threaten the very traditions it has long sustained.
The drought in 2024 severely impacted the tea harvest, despite efforts to salvage it through labor-intensive techniques. When pests broke out, Yanrong and other villagers worked tirelessly for weeks, hand-picking insects off the most valuable tea trees. In the end, the infestation did not spread to the ancient tea forests, proving the effectiveness of the protective planting barriers invented by their ancestors.
Their story is just one example of the ongoing prosperity of the Jingmai tea market. Today, 90% of the region's income comes from tea, and the younger generation even uses live streaming to gain more attention from online tea enthusiasts.
In Wengji and Nuogang Villages, recognized as architectural gems by UNESCO, villagers have transformed traditional wooden homes into charming shops. Some have even built climate-controlled warehouses to store tea cakes, reflecting the growing value of Pu'er tea and the expectation that these cakes may one day become valuable antiques.
In May of last year, a rare tea cake from Yunnan (the century-old Songpinghao Red Label) sold for a staggering 3.5 million Hong Kong dollars at an auction in Hong Kong.
In a high-end shopping center in Beijing, salespeople showcase premium tea cakes from Jingmai Mountain. Over the past few decades, improved transportation in rural China has made it possible for these precious teas from ancient tea forests to reach major cities. Today, Jingmai tea farmers compete with tea growers across the country.
