In the recently aired historical drama Flourished Peony (国色芳华), eagle-eyed viewers noticed something peculiar about Dong Jie’s (董洁) character, Feng Xiaoyi (冯小姨): she wore a curious piece of fabric draped across her chest, resembling what modern audiences might jokingly call a “butt curtain.” This accessory, however, is far from a mere costume quirk—it’s a revival of the Wei Shang (围裳), a centuries-old fashion staple from the Tang Dynasty (618–907 CE).
What Is a Wei Shang?
The Wei Shang, often referred to as a “waist skirt” or yao qun (腰裙), is a versatile garment that wraps around the waist or hips. Historically, it served both decorative and functional purposes. According to The Dictionary of Ancient Chinese Clothing, the Wei Shang was a short skirt worn around the waist, while scholars like Ruan Li (阮立) from Shanghai University describe it as a wide band tied at the hips, often secured with decorative knots or beads.
In simpler terms, the Wei Shang is a layered piece of fabric that adds depth and structure to an outfit. Its design can range from a single piece of cloth to multiple panels stitched together, often pleated or embroidered for added flair.
From Waist to Chest: A Tang Dynasty Trend
One of the most striking features of the Wei Shang in Flourished Peony is its placement—not at the waist, but high on the chest. This style, while seemingly unconventional today, was a hallmark of Tang Dynasty fashion. During the Sui (581–618 CE) and early Tang periods, women’s clothing began to emphasize elevated waistlines, a trend that naturally extended to accessories like the Wei Shang.
Artifacts and murals from this era, such as those found in the tomb of Princess Xincheng (新城长公主), depict women wearing Wei Shang that accentuated their silhouettes. The garment’s vertical stripes and layered construction not only created a slimming effect but also added a sense of sophistication and movement to the wearer’s attire.
Yang Zi (杨紫) and Dong Jie’s Fashion Statements
The Wei Shang has made a surprising comeback in contemporary media, thanks to its inclusion in shows like National Treasure (国家宝藏), where Yang Zi donned a strikingly similar outfit. Her ensemble, featuring a striped Wei Shang paired with a flowing skirt, showcased the garment’s timeless appeal and versatility.
In Flourished Peony, Dong Jie’s character elevates the Wei Shang to new heights—literally. By positioning it at chest level, the costume designers highlight the garment’s adaptability and its ability to transform an outfit from simple to stunning.
The Practical Side of the Wei Shang
Beyond its aesthetic appeal, the Wei Shang was a practical addition to ancient wardrobes. In colder months, it could be lined with cotton for extra warmth, while lighter fabrics were used during the summer to ensure breathability. This blend of form and function made it a favorite among Tang Dynasty women, who valued both elegance and comfort.
Today, the Wei Shang continues to inspire designers and fashion enthusiasts alike. Its layered, cake-like structure bears a striking resemblance to Western tiered skirts, proving that good design transcends cultural and temporal boundaries.
As we marvel at the intricate costumes in Flourished Peony and other historical dramas, it’s worth remembering the rich history behind each piece. The Wei Shang is more than just a “butt curtain”—it’s a testament to the ingenuity and artistry of ancient Chinese fashion.
👍👍👍