When we think of round fans, or tuanshan (团扇), images of graceful women in flowing robes often come to mind. Yet, the origins of this iconic accessory tell a different story—one where men, not women, were the primary users. From its inception as a tool of etiquette to its evolution into a symbol of feminine beauty, the round fan’s journey through Chinese history is as rich and layered as the silk it was often made from.
A Man’s World: The Early Days of Round Fans
Contrary to popular belief, round fans were not always associated with women. During the Han Dynasty (206 BCE–220 CE), these fans emerged as a practical accessory for men, particularly among scholars and aristocrats. Known as gongshan (宫扇) or “palace fans,” they were initially used to shield one’s face—a gesture of modesty or social avoidance. Historical records, such as the Book of Han (《汉书》), describe how officials used fans to avoid awkward encounters, a practice humorously akin to modern-day “social distancing.”
By the Tang Dynasty (618–907 CE), round fans had become a staple of courtly life. Their designs evolved from simple bamboo frames to intricate works of art, often adorned with calligraphy, paintings, or delicate embroidery. Despite their growing association with women, men continued to use them, particularly in formal settings.
The Many Roles of Round Fans
Round fans served a variety of purposes beyond their aesthetic appeal:
A Tool of Etiquette
In ancient China, maintaining one’s composure was paramount. Fans were used to conceal facial expressions, ensuring that emotions remained private—a practice known as bianshan (便面). This was especially important in courtly settings, where a single misstep could lead to social or political repercussions.
A Status Symbol
Large, ornate fans known as zhangshan (障扇) were carried by attendants during royal processions. These fans, often too heavy for practical use, symbolized the emperor’s authority and were a visual reminder of the social hierarchy.
A Wedding Tradition
During the Tang and Song Dynasties, brides used fans to cover their faces in a custom called queshan (却扇). This practice, rooted in modesty and mystery, inspired countless poems and artworks, cementing the fan’s role in matrimonial rituals.
A Cooling Device (Finally!)
While round fans are often associated with cooling, this was arguably their least significant function. Smaller, more practical fans made of woven bamboo or palm leaves were preferred for their lightweight and efficient airflow.
The Feminine Shift: How Round Fans Became a Woman’s Accessory
The Tang Dynasty marked a turning point in the fan’s cultural identity. As women gained prominence in art and literature, round fans became a symbol of feminine grace and elegance. Paintings like Court Ladies Adorning Their Hair with Flowers (《簪花仕女图》) depict noblewomen holding delicate fans, their poses exuding poise and refinement.
By the Song Dynasty (960–1279 CE), the fan’s association with women was firmly established. Its circular shape, often likened to the full moon, came to represent harmony and unity—qualities highly prized in traditional Chinese aesthetics.
A Legacy Preserved in Art
Today, round fans remain a beloved cultural artifact, celebrated in traditional Chinese dance, opera, and fashion. Their intricate designs and historical significance continue to inspire modern interpretations, from high-end fashion runways to contemporary art installations.
As we admire the beauty of these fans, it’s worth remembering their humble beginnings—a reminder that even the most delicate objects can carry a weighty history.
