When you visit Xinjiang, the rich and diverse culinary culture is a must-experience, with one food standing out: "naan" (馕). This round flatbread is more than just a staple—it's an integral part of the region's history, culture, and daily life.
While Xinjiang's cuisine varies across regions, naan remains a constant, bridging the vast cultural and geographic diversity. It's almost a rite of passage for visitors to leave Xinjiang with naan tucked in their bags, an edible souvenir of sorts. But for those unfamiliar with this bread, the first question often arises: "Why does it look so dry and hard, and yet why do locals love it so much?" The answer is simple: "naan" is far more than just food. It's an experience, a memory, and a taste of home that lingers in the heart long after the last bite.
The term "naan" itself has its roots in the Persian word for bread, and its evolution is closely tied to the region's cultural exchanges. The "naan" we know today closely resembles the ancient "Huping (胡饼)" bread mentioned in texts from the Han dynasty, which the people of the Central Plains adored. The most significant difference between ancient and modern naan is the way it's baked, a process that has mostly stayed the same over the centuries.
Why does naan seem so dry to outsiders? It's because of the region's arid climate. The bread is designed to be dry and compact to withstand long journeys. The low moisture content ensures that naan stays fresh longer, making it perfect for traveling across Xinjiang's vast desert landscapes. Interestingly, locals have a simple trick to restore naan's softness: dip it in water or let it soak in milk tea, and it regains its fluffy texture. It's a food that adapts to its environment and reflects the resilience of the people who make it.
The Diversity of Naan in Xinjiang
Naan in Xinjiang is not just one type—it's a whole family of breads, each unique in shape, size, and flavor. It is said that there are at least 300 different kinds of naan in Xinjiang, and they range from simple, everyday varieties to elaborate creations meant for special occasions. One of the most common varieties is "Ake naan," which is typically medium-sized with a round shape and a distinctive pattern pressed into the dough before baking. It is often coated with chopped onions before baking, resulting in a golden, aromatic crust. The sesame naan, which is sprinkled with sesame seeds, has a rich, nutty flavor and is equally popular.
For festive occasions, especially during traditional Uyghur celebrations like the "Gurban Festival (古尔邦节)" and "Eid al-Fitr (开斋节)," larger, more intricate varieties are made. One example is "Xierman naan (希尔曼馕)," a heartier bread that has a dense texture and is often shaped into artistic forms. For the Kazakhs in Xinjiang, "Tapan naan (塔潘馕)" is a special bread made with milk, typically baked in a pan instead of an oven. It's known for its soft, fluffy texture and is often served during important family gatherings or while migrating.
In regions like Kucha, bread takes on a larger scale. The "Bigak naan (比加克馕)" can reach up to 60 cm in diameter, with a thickness of just under 1 cm. It is typically topped with onions, sesame, and safflower and is known for its crispy, fragrant texture. The grandest of them all is the "Aimak naan (艾麦克馕)," which can be as large as 1 meter in diameter and is often seen at celebratory feasts, served in layers with various other dishes stacked on top.
Beyond the traditional variations, modern versions of naan include stuffed bread such as "guxi naan," which contains a filling of lamb, beef, onions, and cumin. This type of naan is a savory treat with a crispy exterior and a juicy, tender filling. Other versions are filled with sweet fillings like rose jam, fig jam, or apple sauce, giving them a dessert-like quality.
The ingenuity doesn't stop at the filling or size—naan in Xinjiang can even be made with alternative grains such as corn, millet, and pumpkin, catering to modern tastes and nutritional preferences. These grain-based variations offer a unique texture and flavor, reflecting the region's resourcefulness and adaptability to its environment.
The Role of Naan
In Xinjiang, naan is far more than just a meal; it's woven into the fabric of daily life and social interaction. The process of making naan, known as "da nang" or "making naan," is often a communal activity. During celebrations and festivals, families come together to bake naan, which is then shared with neighbors and guests. It symbolizes hospitality, unity, and the warmth of community. Visitors to Xinjiang are often invited to share in this act, a gesture of generosity that transcends food and creates lasting memories.
Moreover, naan plays a crucial role in various rituals and traditions. For example, when a newborn is celebrated after 40 days of birth, a small naan is given to each guest as a token of thanks. Similarly, during weddings, the bride and groom may engage in a symbolic "fight" for naan, a fun tradition believed to predict who will "wear the pants" in the marriage. Naan also has a protective significance in many communities. In some areas, it is believed that placing naan in a home or using it in rituals can bring good fortune and ward off negative influences.
The cultural significance of naan is so profound that it is considered sacred in some parts of Xinjiang. The saying "The bread is the soul of the meal" is frequently heard, reflecting how seriously food—especially naan—is treated. In fact, when a piece of naan falls on the ground, it is expected to be picked up and eaten, as it is considered disrespectful to waste food. This respect for naan speaks to the broader cultural values of Xinjiang's people: reverence for tradition, family, and the earth that sustains them.
In every bite of naan, whether shared with loved ones or enjoyed alone, there's a story of history, community, and the profound connection between food and culture. It's no wonder that once you try naan in Xinjiang, you'll quickly understand why it's much more than just bread—it's a way of life.
