The qipao, a symbol of Chinese femininity and grace, has undergone a fascinating evolution since its inception in the early 20th century. At the heart of its transformation lies the story of societal shifts and the rising movement of women's independence, a tale that is embodied in the iconic garments once worn by the members of the Confucius family, which are now showcased at the Confucius Museum. The museum's exhibit, titled "The Old Collection of Republican-era Clothing," offers a rare glimpse into this evolving fashion.
Initially, the qipao emerged in the form of a long vest-like garment during the early years of the Republic of China. This was a time when the traditional attire for women, primarily composed of skirts and jackets, was evolving to incorporate more practical and modern elements. Around the 1920s, a new fashion trend appeared in the form of a long vest that was worn over jackets, initially providing warmth. Over time, the vest grew longer and was worn without the skirt, and eventually, it was merged with sleeves. The result was the early version of what we now recognize as the qipao—a fusion of function and fashion that marked a clear departure from the previous forms of traditional Chinese dress.
The traditional structure of the qipao, marked by a high collar and side closure, represented not only a physical garment but also a reflection of changing social norms. As more and more women began to challenge traditional gender roles and embrace new notions of independence, their clothing began to mirror this shift.
Qipao and the Body: A Symbol of Female Liberation
As China entered the 1930s, a movement for women’s liberation gained momentum, led by the May Fourth Movement and the subsequent Tianru Movement. The call for gender equality and the rejection of restrictive clothing, such as the traditional corset, gave rise to new ideas of beauty and freedom. Women increasingly sought to embrace their bodies and break free from physical constraints.
The qipao, which had once been loose and straight, began to evolve to more closely follow the contours of the female form. As this body-positive transformation unfolded, the traditional silhouette with its flat, wide shape was replaced by a more fitted, curvaceous cut. By the late 1920s, with the rise of the Tianru Movement, women started to reject restrictive corsetry, which had often been used to cinch the waist and limit mobility. In its place, the focus shifted toward celebrating natural curves, with the qipao’s waistline becoming more form-fitting, and the hems started to rise.
During this period, the short qipao gained popularity, with skirts cutting off just above the knee, a style directly influenced by the global flapper movement from the West. This design was radical for its time, offering women a new sense of mobility and freedom, while also aligning with global fashion trends.
The Qipao’s Iconic Form
The 1930s marked the golden era of the long qipao, when the dress length dropped to floor length. The so-called "dust-sweeping" qipao, which brushed the ground with its elegant sweep, became the ultimate symbol of modern sophistication. For the first time, women began to pair the qipao with high heels, a look that encapsulated the stylish, empowered woman of the 1930s.
With the lengthening of the qipao came new challenges. Women had to adapt their posture and gait to accommodate the gown’s flowing fabric. It became a symbol of grace, as well as practical fashion, requiring women to adopt a more upright and poised stance when walking.
However, the onset of the Second Sino-Japanese War in 1937 brought unforeseen changes to the fashion world. Due to material shortages, the qipao’s length was reduced once again, this time to mid-calf length. This reduction in fabric was not only a response to wartime scarcity but also a reflection of the times—women were beginning to adopt a more functional approach to their attire while still holding on to the symbolic elegance of the qipao.
This era marked the culmination of a transformation that had begun decades earlier. The qipao had gone from a traditional garment, representing the decorum of Chinese women, to a modern symbol of self-expression, freedom, and femininity. As the fabric of society unraveled during the war years, the qipao stood as a steadfast representation of the evolving role of women in China, both socially and politically.
