Nestled near the border of Guizhou and Guangxi lies the quiet, unassuming town of Libo (荔波). Here, in the remote Maolan Nature Reserve (茂兰自然保护区), time seems to have slowed down, preserving a pristine landscape that defies the pressures of modernity. When Jiang Cuo first arrived at this untouched corner of the world in 2016, he was captivated by its simplicity. This valley, spanning over 200 acres, had no roads, no signs of urbanization, and few inhabitants. Many locals had long since moved on, leaving behind land that was ripe for reimagining.
Jiang Cuo saw potential in this abandoned village. With a few thousand yuan, he rented the land and named his vision "Dongdao Tribe," a community dedicated to a sustainable and handmade way of life. In doing so, he invited others to join him in living off the land, disconnected from modernity but deeply connected to nature.
Living in the Impossible Forest
Libo's Maolan Nature Reserve is an anomaly, even in a region known for its rugged, karst landscapes. Karst formations, composed of porous limestone, are not usually conducive to lush forests. Water quickly escapes through the rock's crevices, making it difficult for vegetation to take root. Yet, against all odds, Maolan harbors the largest karst forest ecosystem in the world, a rich tapestry of plant and animal life that astonishes scientists and visitors alike.
This extraordinary forest has been a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site since 2007, celebrated for its rare blend of karst topography and dense woodland. The trees here have learned to adapt, clinging to the bare limestone, their roots burrowing deep into the rock's cracks to extract precious nutrients. The forest flourishes in spite of its harsh environment, creating an ecosystem that is as beautiful as it is resilient.
Maolan's most famous feature is its "funnel forest," where towering karst peaks give way to bowl-like depressions, each filled with verdant greenery. These natural formations create a patchwork of isolated ecosystems, where trees, ferns, and other flora thrive. It is in this unique setting that Jiang Cuo and his tribe of young settlers have carved out a new life.
Guided by local experts, adventurers can embark on a three-hour journey to explore the "four caves in a row," a natural sequence of caverns including the Black Cave, Immortal Cave, Nine Heavens Cave, and the famous Golden Lion Cave. These underground wonders are illuminated by natural skylights, where rays of sunlight filter through the openings, casting a soft glow on the moss-covered walls. The play of light and shadow creates an almost otherworldly atmosphere, a green, misty paradise that feels plucked from the pages of an impressionist painting.
A Community Built by Hand
Jiang Cuo, who describes himself as an "international vagabond" after traveling through more than 140 countries, envisioned Dongdao as a sanctuary for people seeking an alternative lifestyle. Here, those drawn to the simple life—free from the hustle of city living—can build homes, grow food, and create their own version of a utopia. The tribe's residents, affectionately known as "islanders," rely on their creativity and hands-on skills to survive.
There is no shortage of creativity in Dongdao. From repurposing pigpens into batik studios to converting old barns into craft workshops, the islanders have found ingenious ways to repurpose abandoned structures. For instance, two young residents, Afai and Buyu, converted a derelict pigsty into a fully functioning batik workshop, fashioning furniture and decorations from scratch. With no prior construction experience, they painstakingly built everything by hand, learning as they went.
Similarly, Lizi, a recent graduate with degrees in product and fashion design, found her new home in an abandoned house once used for storing coffins. After carefully negotiating with local villagers, she removed the coffins and transformed the eerie space into a creative hub for her clothing designs. Like Afai and Buyu, Lizi embraced the DIY ethos, constructing her furniture and working with what she had at hand.
Visitors to Dongdao are greeted by an eclectic village of handmade cottages, batik studios, pottery workshops, and glass-blowing spaces. There's even an outdoor gym, where residents lift weights while gazing out at the majestic peaks. The tribe operates on the principle of self-sufficiency: growing vegetables, raising chickens, and living off the land. There are no gates, and anyone is welcome to join and explore this off-grid community.
Preserving Traditions in Nearby Villages
A visit to Dongdao Tribe is only one part of the Maolan experience. Further exploration reveals nearby indigenous villages where age-old traditions continue to thrive. In Yaogu Buyi Village, located between the Maolan scenic area and Libo town, the Buyi people practice their traditional crafts, from batik dyeing to ancient paper-making techniques. Visitors can immerse themselves in these ancient practices, watching artisans at work and trying their hand at these skills.
In addition to crafting, the Buyi people maintain their unique customs, such as brewing traditional glutinous rice wine and performing Buyei opera. The village's well-preserved wooden stilt houses are set against the backdrop of verdant hills and sparkling streams, offering a glimpse into a way of life that has endured for centuries.
Further up the mountains, in the remote Yaoshan Village, the White Pants Yao people live in isolation, having only begun interacting with the outside world in the past decade. The village, largely undeveloped, offers a rare opportunity to see how life has persisted in the deep mountains of Guizhou. The Yao people still live off the land, hunting and farming as their ancestors did. Visitors are welcomed into their homes, where traditions, from embroidery to hunting, are passed down from generation to generation.
Jiang Cuo's vision for Dongdao Tribe is simple: to create a space where people can live life on their own terms, away from the pressures of modern society. Here, in the untouched forests of Libo, a community has taken root, nourished by the desire to reconnect with nature and live authentically.
