Luigi Dell'Arena, or "Gigi" as his friends affectionately call him, is an Italian chef who never imagined becoming the head chef at a Western restaurant in a small Chinese town. Gigi's journey from Milan to the town of Qingtian is a story of culture, passion, and resilience. Along with Jia Xiaoyue, the restaurant's owner, Gigi has brought the essence of authentic Italian cuisine to this quaint Chinese town, creating a fusion of flavors that delights locals and introduces them to the intricacies of Italian dining.
Gigi's Culinary Mastery: From Handmade Pasta to Unique Flavors
Gigi's approach to Italian cuisine in Qingtian is nothing short of extraordinary. Unlike many local restaurants, where chefs often rely on store-bought ingredients, Gigi insists on creating everything from scratch, including the pasta. He prepares various shapes and colors of pasta by hand, from wide ribbons to slender strands, and even dyes some in shades of green, purple, and orange.
One of Gigi's standout dishes is his porcini mushroom pasta. Unlike traditional Chinese preferences for rich sauces like egg yolk or cream, Gigi opts for whipped butter as his base. This choice allows the delicate flavors of the porcini mushrooms to shine without being overwhelmed. A touch of pepper and sea salt completes the dish, offering a fresh, vibrant taste that is both light and flavorful.
For the main course, Gigi turns to a beloved Italian classic: the Antica steak. This dish, originating from Milan, features Angus beef from Australia, a substitution Gigi made to cater to the local palate. Rather than sticking to rigid authenticity, Gigi has adapted the recipe, marinating the steak slightly to meet the Chinese preference for tender and flavorful meat. Paired with a medley of vegetables, the dish is topped with Belgian endive and arugula, adding a slight bitterness and spice that balance the dish.
Even desserts carry Gigi's creative touch. Every June, when the local Yangmei fruit is in season, Gigi uses it to make Yangmei pudding, cakes, and even sauces for pan-seared scallops. The tart, sweet flavor of the Yangmei complements these desserts, making them a hit with the locals.
Risotto vs. Pizza and Pasta
Despite Gigi's passion for Italian culinary traditions, his attempts to introduce certain dishes have met with resistance from local diners. One of his greatest challenges has been his love for risotto, particularly saffron risotto, a staple in Milan. Gigi can talk for hours about the different varieties of rice used in Italy, their textures, and how they absorb flavors. However, as Jia Xiaoyue, the restaurant's owner, points out, the majority of their customers are more interested in familiar options like pizza and pasta.
This cultural divergence is something Gigi has learned to navigate over time. While he remains enthusiastic about sharing his knowledge of Italian cuisine, he also understands the need to cater to local tastes. For instance, Gigi enjoys recommending other types of meat beyond the usual beef and chicken, such as duck breast risotto, a dish that involves curing the duck breast like prosciutto and adding pine nuts and cheese for a rich flavor. Instead of trying to force authenticity, he focuses on creating dishes that highlight the craftsmanship and quality of his ingredients. All sauces, soups, and seasonings used in the restaurant are made from scratch by Gigi himself, a detail that Jia Xiaoyue proudly emphasizes to customers.
A Journey of Two Lost Souls: Finding a New Purpose in Qingtian
The story of how Gigi ended up in Qingtian is one of fate, serendipity, and a shared desire for a fresh start. Both Gigi and Jia Xiaoyue had experienced difficult times before coming together to open the restaurant. Gigi, almost 60, had recently gone through a divorce and had been swindled by his own nephew. His restaurant in Milan eventually went bankrupt due to poor management, leaving him at rock bottom. Jia Xiaoyue, meanwhile, had returned to her hometown of Qingtian after living abroad for years, only to face her own set of challenges, including financial troubles after her restaurant's finances were mishandled by a relative.
Despite these setbacks, the two found solace in each other's company and a mutual determination to rebuild their lives. Jia convinced Gigi to move to China with the promise of helping him share his culinary expertise with a new audience. As she told him, "Italy has so many great chefs, but in China, you can be the one to spread Italian food culture. How amazing would that be?"
In 2019, Gigi made the move, and together with Jia, they set up the Western restaurant, Gioielli, in Qingtian. The restaurant's name, which means "jewels" in Italian, reflects both the preciousness of their friendship and their shared dream of creating something beautiful in an unexpected place.
Jia, who grew up in a typical overseas Chinese family, had lived in several countries before finally settling in Italy. Her father had first ventured abroad to Ukraine, where he made a fortune selling jeans. Jia, the second eldest in her family, followed in his footsteps, moving from Ukraine to Bulgaria, and eventually to Italy. There, she began working in a Chinese restaurant, abandoning her plans to study design after her sister returned to China, leaving Jia to support the family financially.
Although her path to success was far from easy, Jia looks back on those years with fondness. She remembers the warmth and kindness of the Italians she met along the way—the landlady who gave her flowers and taught her Italian, the theater owner who invited her to late-night shows, and the driving instructor who helped her pass her test. These experiences made her feel more at home in Italy than she ever did in her strict upbringing in China.
Now, back in Qingtian, Jia has brought a little piece of Italy with her, thanks to Gigi and their restaurant. Together, they are proving that second chances are possible, even in the most unexpected of places.
