A Day in the Life of Chef Yang Kang (杨康)
Chef Yang Kang's day begins at 8 a.m. sharp. The executive chef of Xiamen Restaurant at the Xiamen Seaview Resort Hotel has been in this role for five years, and his routine is as disciplined as ever. From breakfast to workout, menu planning, and ingredient sourcing, Yang insists on personally selecting the freshest ingredients each day. He meticulously examines the daily catch—crabs, fish, and eel—ensuring only the best make it to his kitchen. His dedication to this task symbolizes his commitment to quality and tradition. Living just three minutes away from the hotel, Yang sees it as his responsibility to maintain this rigorous standard.
At 30 years old, Yang Kang is a picture of vitality and precision, embodying the energy and discipline of a seasoned chef. Recently, amidst a summer typhoon, he and his team pulled off a unique dinner event centered around yellow croaker, featuring a 12-course menu that showcased his mastery of Fujian cuisine. The evening's offerings ranged from delicate appetizers like Nine-Year-Old Lily and Zhugua Tofu Skin to the more robust flavors of dishes like the signature Red Crab Stir-Fried Dragon's Tooth Bird's Nest. The restaurant, located on the hotel's first floor, is an elegant space, where traditional red brick walls and antique wooden furniture create a timeless ambiance. Guests can gaze out at the hotel's central water feature, where the play of light and shadow adds to the serene dining experience.
Fujian Flavors with a Twist
Yang Kang's culinary philosophy is deeply rooted in the traditions of Fujian cuisine, but he isn't afraid to innovate. One of the standout dishes from the yellow croaker dinner was the Red Crab Stir-Fried Dragon's Tooth Bird's Nest, a dish that blends elements from both Cantonese and Fujian cooking. Yang, who started his career in Cantonese cuisine and honed his skills in major cities like Beijing, Shanghai, and Chengdu, brings a unique perspective to Fujian dishes.
The Red Crab Stir-Fried Dragon's Tooth Bird's Nest is a prime example of this fusion: replacing the traditional crab meat with red crab and swapping shark fin for bird's nest, a staple more suited to local tastes. The dish also borrows the technique from a local Fujian specialty, Tongan Pan-Fried Crab, where the crab is baked with various spices before being stir-fried with the bird's nest. This dish, which requires meticulous attention to detail and precise control of heat, epitomizes Yang's skill and creativity.
As the evening progressed, the table was filled with a feast for the senses. The Yongan Yellow Pepper Fish, another highlight, drew eager glances even before it was served. This dish, an upgrade from the restaurant's regular menu, employs a technique inspired by Sichuan's famous Boiling Fish. Yang uses yellow croaker from the pristine waters of Sanmen Bay in Ningde, adopting a semi-wild farming method that results in a texture and flavor remarkably close to that of wild fish. The dish is seasoned with Yongan yellow pepper, a unique Fujianese chili that adds a restrained heat and a distinctive fragrance. The hot oil sizzles as it is poured over the fish, releasing an aroma that envelops the dining room like a sudden summer downpour.
Following this, the Lychee Fish offers a sweet and sour counterpoint, with the sauce crafted from Yongchun vinegar, a delicate balance of flavors that enhances the natural sweetness of the lychee fish. Yang's thoughtful progression of flavors throughout the menu reflects his deep understanding of the balance and harmony essential to Fujian cuisine.
Crafting the Perfect Pairing: A Sommelier's Perspective
As the evening drew to a close, the dessert—a Hand Green Ice Cream—left a lasting impression. Made with Quanzhou sea salt, Wuyi Mountain milk, and Hand Green mushroom powder, this dessert was a harmonious blend of sweet and savory, with a crisp Hand Green mushroom wafer topping it off. The introduction of sea salt was a last-minute suggestion from the sommelier, Lu Yang, who believed that a touch of salt would balance the overall sweetness, creating a dessert that was both complex and refreshing.
Lu Yang, a renowned sommelier, played a crucial role in pairing wines with Yang Kang's dishes, creating a symphony of flavors that complemented the evening's menu. The Boiling Fish was paired with a Gewürztraminer from Alsace, known for its intense aroma that could stand up to the robust flavors of the dish. For the Hand Green Ice Cream and the preceding Seaweed Soup Rice Cake, Lu selected a rare Chinese sake from Jilin, whose delicate rice flavor harmonized perfectly with the dessert's understated sweetness.
For Lu, this collaboration with Xiamen Restaurant was particularly exciting. He praised the Seaview Resort for its visionary approach, combining traditional Fujian elements with international influences. The wine list he curated reflects this balance, starting with Chinese wines and moving through selections from countries that once had consulates in the area, before concluding with offerings from the New World and classic European estates.
Lu's approach to creating the wine list for Xiamen Restaurant was akin to crafting a narrative, ensuring that each selection not only complemented the food but also told the story of Xiamen—a city with a rich history and a unique blend of cultural influences. His careful consideration of the restaurant's identity and the local context resulted in a wine list that is both sophisticated and accessible, perfectly matching the refined yet unpretentious nature of the cuisine.
In the end, the collaboration between Chef Yang Kang and Sommelier Lu Yang resulted in an unforgettable evening, where each dish and each glass of wine contributed to a culinary experience that was both rooted in tradition and boldly innovative. As Xiamen continues to evolve as a cultural and culinary hub, it is the dedication and creativity of individuals like Yang and Lu that will ensure its place on the global stage.
