Amid the subtropical sun, not even the cool sea breeze can dampen the intense heat that permeates the air. The rays of light pierce through the blades of exhaust fans, reflecting off the towering alloy beer tanks and illuminating the bustling figures moving between them. In this scene, workers are busy washing barrels and checking sugar levels in the brew. This modern factory in Longhai District, Zhangzhou, Fujian, is where the Shapowei Brewery has taken root, bringing the distinctive flavors of southern Fujian to an international audience.
Shapowei (沙坡尾) Brewery, a homegrown brand from Xiamen, officially inaugurated its new facility in June this year. Located in a food industrial park just a 20-minute drive from Xiamen Island, the brewery is the first and only brand currently operating in the park. As you step into the factory, you're greeted by the warm, sweet aroma of grains fermenting, mingling with the subtle scent of beer—a smell that reflects the careful balance between tradition and modernity.
A Fusion of Tradition and Technology
The Shapowei Brewery is a testament to modern brewing techniques. Unlike the labor-intensive, noisy scenes one might imagine, where brewers are manually adding hops to boiling wort, this factory operates almost entirely through automation. The entire brewing process—from preparing the malt to boiling, adding hops, cooling, fermenting, and bottling—is managed by machines, controlled via a smart panel on the wall and a mobile app. This high level of automation allows the brewery to produce beer with consistent quality while minimizing human intervention.
The brewery spans nearly 4,000 square meters, with machines humming quietly as they boil malt, and large metallic fermentation tanks stand silently in the brewing hall. Some of these tanks use a "water-sealed" method to maintain the fermentation environment, a technique that dates back to ancient times. Despite the high-tech surroundings, the essence of brewing remains rooted in ancient practices. Even the water used to seal the fermentation tanks carries the aromas of the beers it helps to ferment, evoking scents of lychee, malt, and apple.
The brewing team at Shapowei, led by master brewer Fang Haijun, affectionately known as "Fifteen," is at the heart of this operation. Fifteen, one of the brewery's partners, oversees the entire brewing process. His journey into brewing began in 2016 when the craft beer scene in Xiamen was just emerging. At the time, local brewers were experimenting with basic lagers and stouts, but Fifteen quickly developed a passion for brewing that went far beyond these simple styles.
Crafting a Unique Identity
Fifteen's dedication to brewing led him to experiment with a variety of flavors, often working late into the night to perfect his recipes. His obsession with brewing was such that he set up a small 20-liter brewing system in his living room, where he began creating beers that soon gained a following among his friends. This passion eventually led to the establishment of a small craft beer studio, where Fifteen could fully immerse himself in the art of brewing.
In 2020, Shapowei Brewing was officially founded, with its first breakout product being a fruit-infused ale called "Golden Citrus." This beer, brewed with kumquats and lemons, became an instant hit, capitalizing on the growing trend of fruit-flavored craft beers in China. The success of Golden Citrus propelled Shapowei into the spotlight, leading to the decision to build a full-scale brewery in Zhangzhou.
Building the brewery was no small feat. The founders, including Huang Yusheng, also known as "Xiao Hei," and market veteran "Monkey," faced numerous challenges, from selecting the site to configuring the brewing equipment. The scale of the new operation required a significant investment, and the transition from a small-scale studio to a large factory presented its own set of difficulties. For instance, scaling up the brewing process from 100 liters to 2.5 tons introduced subtle changes in fermentation conditions, which affected the flavor of the beer. However, the team was committed to overcoming these obstacles to ensure that Shapowei's products remained true to their original vision.
The founders of Shapowei each bring their unique backgrounds to the table. Xiao Hei, a former professional Sanda (Chinese kickboxing) athlete, has a deep-rooted passion for craft beer and had previously invested in a beer contract factory. His goal was to create a craft beer that reflected the local flavors of southern Fujian, particularly a white tea-infused beer. Despite numerous attempts, it took over a year to achieve the desired taste.
Monkey, on the other hand, is a seasoned veteran of Xiamen's craft beer scene, having run a popular craft beer bar for over a decade. Known for his expertise, Monkey played a crucial role in the establishment of Shapowei, bringing his extensive experience and knowledge to the brand.
Together, these three individuals have created a brand that not only celebrates the rich brewing traditions of southern Fujian but also embraces modern technology to produce beers that can compete on a global stage. Shapowei Brewing is more than just a brewery; it's a symbol of the fusion of old and new, tradition and innovation, local flavor and international appeal.
As Shapowei continues to grow, the team remains focused on their mission to bring the unique flavors of southern Fujian to beer lovers around the world. With their dedication to quality and innovation, Shapowei is poised to become a leading name in China's burgeoning craft beer industry.
