Summer calls for seaside escapes, and nestled at the easternmost tip of the Shandong Peninsula lies a coastal gem that many overlook: Rongcheng (荣成). Though often overshadowed by its more famous neighbor Weihai, Rongcheng offers a cool retreat with average summer temperatures barely reaching 30 degrees Celsius. Just a six-hour high-speed train ride from Beijing, this quaint town promises a unique blend of natural beauty, historical significance, and cultural richness.
Rongcheng is home to several of Weihai's most celebrated attractions, including the serene Naxiang Sea, the dramatic Chengshantou Peninsula, the scenic coastal road, the hauntingly beautiful Blue Whaleshipwreck, and the bustling Xixiakou Wildlife Park. It's a place where the earliest sunrise over the sea, the refreshing ocean breeze, and the anticipation of the upcoming fishing season combine to create an irresistible allure.
Rongcheng's Coastal Treasures: Bays, Islands, and Beyond
Rongcheng's coastline is dotted with numerous bays, each offering a distinct experience. Ailian Bay, famous for its soft sandy beaches and crystal-clear blue waters, is a paradise for seafood lovers. The bay, originally named Ailun Bay, is renowned for its bountiful harvests of sea cucumbers, abalone, scallops, sea urchins, and mussels, earning it the nickname "Granary of the Sea." Today, this precious land has been transformed into a high-end international vacation community, reminiscent of an English countryside with sprawling fields, quaint bridges, and streams—a place reserved for residents and hotel guests.
On the opposite side of the peninsula lies Lidun Point, a mecca for photographers. Each winter, thousands of wild swans migrate from Siberia to this coastal haven, drawing crowds of both professional and amateur photographers. The village itself is charmingly rustic, with large ships anchored at the port and well-preserved seaweed houses that look like they belong in an English countryside cartoon.
Unlike other coastal towns, Rongcheng's village of Dongyushan is known for its unique seaweed houses. The rooftops, made from dried seaweed harvested from the sea, are both sturdy and insulating, keeping the homes cool in summer and warm in winter. This type of construction, once a luxury only the wealthy could afford, is now a symbol of Rongcheng's heritage.
Despite its many attractions, Rongcheng remains delightfully uncommercialized. Dining options near the scenic spots are limited, so it's best to return to the city for a meal. The local dumpling shops, known for their fresh mackerel dumplings, offer an unexpected culinary delight. For those unfamiliar with seafood, ordering can be a challenge, as menus are often absent. However, taking a chance on a mystery dish—such as a fried fish—will likely result in a pleasant surprise.
Rongcheng's proximity to Korea has also left its mark on the local culture. The once-thriving China-Korea Trade City in downtown Rongcheng may now be quiet, but the bustling local market remains vibrant. Held on the 9th, 19th, and 29th of each month, this market offers everything from hearty breakfasts to fresh seafood, seasonal fruits, and locally sourced vegetables, making it the perfect place to experience the authentic flavors of Rongcheng.
Chengshantou (成山头): The Edge of the World
Known as the "end of the world" in ancient China, Chengshantou Peninsula is the easternmost point of the Shandong Peninsula and the first place in the country to witness the sunrise over the sea. This historic site, revered as the dwelling of the sun god in ancient times, has been a pilgrimage destination for emperors since the Western Zhou Dynasty. Even the first Emperor of China, Qin Shi Huang, made two visits here, commemorating his journey with inscriptions.
The coastal landscape at Chengshantou is nothing short of spectacular. As you descend from the Qin Shi Huang Temple, a breathtaking panorama unfolds—a vast expanse of deep blue ocean flanked by steep, rugged cliffs. The waves crash against the rocks with an awe-inspiring force, a testament to the millennia it took to shape the unique coastal erosion landforms that earned Chengshantou a spot among "China's Eight Most Beautiful Coasts."
Here, seabirds glide gracefully above the tumultuous waters or rest on the cliffs. A short climb from the temple brings you to a path extending toward the sea, marked by a stone stele inscribed with the ancient script of Li Si, Qin Shi Huang's chancellor, reading "The End of the World." It's a scene that evokes both history and the wild beauty of nature.
For those seeking tranquility, a stroll along the seaside corridor lined with blooming silk tree flowers offers a sweet escape from the crowds. The fragrance of the flowers, carried by the sea breeze, fills the air with the essence of summer.
Red Mountain: A Sacred Summit and Historical Connection
Rongcheng's Red Mountain, or Chishan, named for its crimson rocks, is another must-visit. A short electric cart ride takes you to the summit, where China's tallest sea god statue, standing at 58.8 meters, gazes out over the vast ocean. This imposing figure symbolizes protection and blessings for all.
Further along, the Red Mountain complex also houses the Zhang Bao-Gao (张保皋) Memorial Hall. Zhang Bao-Gao was a Korean national hero who, during the Tang Dynasty, fought against the trafficking of his fellow countrymen. His efforts earned him recognition from both the Korean and Chinese governments, with a commemorative ceremony held at Red Mountain. A 15-meter-tall memorial tower, built with the island's unique red stones and inscribed by Korea's seventh president, stands as a testament to his legacy.
No visit to Red Mountain is complete without witnessing the breathtaking "Paradise of the Bodhisattva," a 15-minute performance featuring grandiose Buddhist music, synchronized fountains, and colorful fire-breathing guardian statues. Despite my usual indifference to such spectacles, this one's scale, design, and profound atmosphere left a lasting impression.
