"Wind blows through Luzhou, carrying the fragrance of wine." This well-known proverb from the Sichuan-Chongqing region encapsulates Luzhou's identity. Mention Luzhou, and the immediate reaction is often, "Oh! Luzhou Laojiao (泸州老窖), right?"
Indeed, Luzhou Laojiao is a prestigious representative of this city. Yet, to those who aren't aficionados of the drink, it may seem like Luzhou's fame is solely tied to its liquor. However, as the once-hidden ancient towns and small cities become overrun with tourists, Luzhou, the southern Sichuan wine city, resurfaces in our travel radar. It offers a unique blend of relaxation and cultural immersion—ideal for those yearning to unwind.
Beyond its renowned liquor, Luzhou embodies a spirit of "laziness"—a relaxed pace of life. There's no rush to check off tourist spots or stick to a tight schedule. From early morning to late evening, Luzhou offers not just wine but also a "spirit of the wine god."
The Heart of Luzhou’s Winemaking
Luzhou's reputation as a wine city isn't just for show. The city is renowned for its use of single grain fermentation in making strong aromatic liquors. While most others use multi-grain fermentation, which is cost-effective, Luzhou Laojiao's single grain method, primarily using sorghum, stands out in producing rich, full-bodied high-end and collectible liquors.
Sorghum, the key ingredient, has a historical significance. In the past century, its resilience to drought and flood made it a staple across China, feeding families during hard times. Today, however, it’s rare to see sorghum in daily cuisine, and it’s mostly remembered through literature and the arts. Despite its coarse texture, Luzhou’s unique glutinous sorghum thrives, distinguished by its deep purple-red hue when mature, resembling a field ablaze in August sunsets. Luzhou’s sorghum fields are primarily organic, preserving the natural flavors essential for top-quality liquor.
A visit to the Luzhou Laojiao Museum offers an immersive experience into the city's winemaking heritage. The museum isn’t large, but the aroma of wine greets you even before you step inside. The journey begins at the Dragon Spring Well, marked by a stone tortoise carrying a stele, followed by a guided tour through the history and evolution of the distillery.
The fermentation cellars, viewed through glass, reveal dedicated artisans stirring the grains, a testament to the meticulous process involved in every step of winemaking. The museum's main exhibition showcases various historical wine vessels, including a unique bronze wine warmer from the Ming Dynasty, characterized by its adorable, almost cartoonish appearance—distinct from typical majestic designs. This artifact, although a replica, highlights the rich cultural tapestry of ancient Sichuan.
The tour culminates with a tasting of the original Luzhou Laojiao 1573, a potent 68-degree liquor. The strong aroma lingers, even with cautious sips, leaving a lasting impression. The museum also offers exclusive liquor varieties, attracting many connoisseurs.
The Charm of Fenshui Ancient Town (汾水古镇)
As original, untouched towns become increasingly rare, even the most discerning tourists can’t deny the allure of Fenshui Ancient Town. Renowned writer Qiong Yao often reminisces about this place in her memoirs, recounting her childhood days listening to her mother teach Tang and Song poetry at Luzhou South School. It’s easy to see why such a town would inspire tales of love and longing.
Perched on a mountain ridge, Fenshui Town lies at the junction of Sichuan, Guizhou, and Yunnan provinces. Historically a bustling trade center, today it retains a serene, untouched charm. The cobblestone streets, wooden structures dating back to the Qing Dynasty, and the undisturbed alleys preserve the town’s original essence.
Shops either remain closed or lazily half-open, with orange cats lounging on doorsteps, oblivious to passersby. Small food stalls emit occasional puffs of smoke as patrons enjoy quiet meals. Hand-painted oil paper umbrellas hang under eaves, creating a kaleidoscope of colors and patterns against the sunlight.
The Bisixifu Oil Paper Umbrella Museum offers a hands-on experience in umbrella making, with finished products available for purchase. The real old street, where elders sit sewing or chatting, leads to a centuries-old camphor tree, exuding a faint floral fragrance. Wandering through this oil-paper umbrella-clad town, savoring local delicacies like sticky rice cakes, one finds that perhaps, fine wine isn't necessary here. The town’s tranquility and charm are intoxicating enough.
Luzhou is more than just a city of wine; it’s a place where history, culture, and a relaxed way of life converge. From its ancient towns and unique winemaking traditions to its untouched charm and serene atmosphere, Luzhou invites travelers to explore and savor every moment. Whether you’re a wine enthusiast or simply seeking a peaceful retreat, Luzhou offers an unforgettable experience, wrapped in the fragrance of its storied past.
