When it comes to Chinese street food, a Beijing friend once said, "If Xi'an ranks second, no one in the North dares to claim first." This high praise piqued my curiosity, especially as a Southerner, where I worried that Xi'an's cuisine might be all about heavy, carb-loaded dishes. However, my visit to this ancient city, the capital of 13 dynasties, revealed a delightful blend of agricultural and nomadic influences that shaped its diverse culinary DNA.
A Meat Lover's Dream: The Best of Xi'an's Carnivorous Offerings
Xi'an is a haven for meat lovers, offering a variety of options that cater to different tastes and preferences. One notable dish is the Mutton Soup (水盆羊肉), famously depicted in the TV series "The Longest Day in Chang'an (长安十二时辰)." Served in a bowl larger than your face, this hearty soup comes with translucent broth, topped with green onions, cilantro, and garlic, with tender slices of mutton peeking through. The first sip reveals a slightly salty yet rich flavor, and the mutton itself is soft and delicate, devoid of any unpleasant gamey taste, with a hint of milky sweetness. Accompanied by noodles and a dash of vinegar and chili, this dish becomes a comforting experience on a chilly evening.
For a more hands-on experience, pairing the soup with traditional crescent-shaped bread or freshly baked round bread is a must. The latter, made from dense dough, can be stuffed with meat and chili, transforming into a DIY meat sandwich or torn into pieces to soak up the soup, adding an extra layer of flavor and texture.
The bustling Muslim Quarter (回坊) is another unmissable destination. Despite being a tourist hotspot, it houses many authentic local eateries. One such place is a small shop at a crossroads, famous for its marinated beef. Unlike the dry versions found in the South, Xi'an's marinated beef is rich red in color and full of flavor, thanks to the combination of fresh beef shank, a medley of spices, and a slow-cooking process. The result is a tender, flavorful meat that pairs perfectly with rice or in a sandwich but is best enjoyed on its own to fully appreciate its texture and taste.
Another highlight is Steamed Beef with Rice Flour (粉蒸肉), a dish that has been a staple in the local cuisine for decades. Fresh beef hind legs are coated with rice flour and spices, then steamed with a layer of beef fat, resulting in a fragrant, soft texture. The beef strips are lean yet chewy, with a peppery flavor that makes each bite enjoyable. For an added twist, try it as a filling for a bun or lotus leaf wrap, paired with a cup of brick tea to balance the richness.
The Staple Kingdom: Breads, Noodles, and Dumplings
Xi'an's culinary repertoire extends beyond meat to an impressive array of staple foods, earning it the title of a "carb heaven." While everyone knows about Lamb Pao Mo (羊肉泡馍), a dish where diners break flatbread into small pieces before it's cooked with lamb and broth, Hulu Tou Pao Mo (葫芦头泡馍) is a lesser-known but equally delightful variant. Hulu Tou refers to pig intestines, which are cleaned thoroughly and cooked to perfection in a milky broth, offering a unique texture that's both tender and chewy.
For first-time visitors, breaking the bread into small pieces and handing it over to the kitchen for cooking is a must-try experience. Depending on the amount of broth, the dish can be "Kou Tang," where the bread soaks up the broth completely, leaving just a mouthful of soup. The perfect bowl of Hulu Tou Pao Mo is creamy and rich, with the intestines providing a satisfying chewiness, complemented by the spicy and fragrant pepper paste made from thick red peppers.
Another staple that has become a symbol of Xi'an's culinary scene is the Rou Jia Mo (肉夹馍), often dubbed the "Chinese hamburger." Late-night foodies should head to Ziwu Road Zhang's for the best Rou Jia Mo in town. The fresh, crispy bread is stuffed to the brim with juicy, marinated meat that drips with savory juices, making each bite a burst of flavor. Whether you prefer the leaner, spicier versions or the more indulgent fatty meat ones, this sandwich is a must-try.
The versatility of Xi'an's cuisine is further showcased in dishes like Big Plate Chicken (大盘鸡) and Kudai Noodles (裤带面). Big Plate Chicken, a dish that combines chicken, potatoes, and peppers in a rich, spicy sauce, is served with broad, hand-pulled noodles that soak up the flavorful gravy. Kudai Noodles, known for their length and thickness, are doused with chili oil and mixed with vegetables and meat, offering a hearty and satisfying meal that embodies the robust flavors of Northern Chinese cuisine.
These are just a few examples of Xi'an's rich culinary offerings. From the bustling night markets to the quiet, tucked-away eateries, the city presents a feast for the senses, making it a must-visit destination for any food enthusiast.
