When one thinks of Jiangsu's culinary delights, cities like Suzhou and Yangzhou often come to mind. However, Yancheng, a coastal city in eastern Jiangsu, is a hidden gem that offers an explosion of fresh and savory flavors, rivaling its more famous neighbors. Despite its low profile, Yancheng boasts a rich agricultural heritage and an impressive variety of dishes that reflect both its coastal and inland influences.
A Breakfast Feast: From Elegant Teas to Humble Pancakes
Yancheng's breakfast scene is a carb-lover's paradise, blending the sweetness of Suzhou and the savory richness of Taizhou. From the delicate Jiangnan morning tea to the humble yet satisfying egg pancake, Yancheng sets a table that celebrates simplicity with a burst of flavors. It features a delightful blend of refined Jiangnan morning teas, hearty egg pancakes, and a variety of seafood and freshwater delicacies. Among these, the most notable is the Dongtai Fish Soup Noodles, with its creamy broth that promises an umami overload.
This culinary tradition has roots in nearby Yangzhou and Taizhou but has evolved in Yancheng to boast an even sweeter and fresher taste. The fish soup noodles, with their milky-white broth, are a local favorite that perfectly encapsulates the city's essence. Made by simmering fish bones until the soup turns a rich, creamy white, this dish is a testament to Yancheng's dedication to simple yet profound flavors.
While Yancheng's morning tea echoes its Yangzhou and Taihu counterparts, it adds a touch of sweetness unique to the region. Delicacies such as crab roe soup dumplings from the vast Zhong Lake compete with those from Zhenjiang, Yangzhou, and Taihu.
The Bounty of the Sea and River
Yancheng enjoys the longest coastline in Jiangsu and is the only city in the province without mountains. Its vast plains are crisscrossed by rivers, and its tidal flats are abundant with clams, prawns, and crabs. The diverse seafood available here means that Yancheng's dining tables are always laden with the freshest catches, from oysters and scallops in spring to the coveted swimming crabs in autumn.
The city's coastal areas, especially the extensive tidal flats, are a treasure trove of small seafood. Families often gather on these flats to collect "cauliflower clams" in spring, which are then stir-fried with spring chives for a dish that doubles up on freshness. These seasonal delights are a staple of Yancheng's unique culinary identity.
A City Defined by Water
Yancheng's geographical makeup includes not only its extensive coastline but also a dense network of rivers and lakes, making it a prime spot for freshwater cuisine. The Da Zhong Lake crabs are as famous as their counterparts from Yangcheng Lake, and the local four-gilled perch is a must-try, often prepared steamed, braised, or in a soup.
One particularly unique ingredient is the tiny "ma shrimp," known as the smallest shrimp in the world. They are highly perishable, which makes them a rare delicacy best enjoyed fresh from the local waters. Yancheng's residents also preserve these shrimp by making shrimp paste, which can be used to flavor noodles, eggs, and tofu, ensuring that the taste of the sea can be enjoyed year-round.
Simple and Savory: The Yancheng Cooking Philosophy
Despite being known for its salt production, Yancheng surprises with its preference for lighter, less salty flavors in its cuisine.
Yancheng, spanning both northern and central Jiangsu, merges the finesse of Huaiyang cuisine with its own distinct style. Dishes like braised beef with greens, rice cakes, and radish stew with shellfish reflect the locals' preference for light, flavorful dishes that highlight the region's agricultural abundance.
Yancheng's culinary style is guided by the principle that high-quality ingredients need minimal intervention. Dishes like the iconic white-cooked pork, simmered twice for optimal tenderness, where the first batch of cooking involves no seasoning at all, allowing the natural flavors of the meat to shine. Subsequent preparations may add only a touch of salt and some vegetables, maintaining the dish's simplicity.
A common feature on Yancheng tables is the use of broths and soups, highlighting the city's love for light and fresh flavors. Dishes like vegetable and beef stew or taro and shrimp soup are commonplace, reflecting a culinary philosophy that emphasizes clarity and purity of taste. This preference for soupy dishes is bolstered by the rich freshwater resources Yancheng has at its disposal, making it easy to create flavorful, yet light broths.
The Rich Tradition of Eight Big Bowls
A hallmark of Yancheng's culinary heritage is the tradition of Eight Big Bowls (八大碗). Originating from the city's salt-producing history, this feast comprises a diverse selection of dishes, each prepared with meticulous attention to detail and showcasing the region's bounty. The Eight Big Bowls include specialties like red-braised sticky rice balls, knife-cut fish, and lion's head meatballs—each dish a testament to the ingenuity and culinary prowess of Yancheng's salt workers turned chefs.
Conclusion: A Culinary Haven Worth Exploring
While Yangzhou and Suzhou are crowded, Yancheng is an opportunity to reacquaint yourself with the charms of Jiangsu. Yancheng, with its vast plains, extensive waterways, and rich coastal resources, offers a culinary experience that is both varied and deeply rooted in tradition. From the sophisticated morning teas to the simple yet flavorful local dishes, this city presents a taste of Jiangsu that is both unique and unforgettable. As spring brings flocks of migratory birds to Yancheng, perhaps it's time for food enthusiasts to flock here too, and discover the hidden culinary treasures of this remarkable city.
