Finding the Right Mamian Skirt to Complement Your Hanfu

Nowadays, the Mamian skirt is increasingly integrated into our sight and life. Under such a trend, many people are eager to own their desired Mamian skirt. Let's follow Hanfu Shidai and take a look at the details to consider during the process of selecting and styling a Mamian skirt.

1 - Selection Stage

Step 1: Size

Firstly, choosing the right size that fits the body curves is crucial for the perfect outfit. Like a suit, a Mamian skirt can be chosen according to a size chart or customized. Whether you are selecting from a size chart or opting for customization, the main standards to measure are height, waist, and hips. These measurements will influence the choice of skirt length, waist length, and sweep circumference.

If we choose to shop online, sellers often provide a size chart for customers to make their selection. By comparing the chart, you can choose according to your size information. If opting for customization, you can first provide the seller with your waist, hip, and height information for reference. Then, based on your needs, negotiate with the tailor to decide the width of the skirt door, the length of the skirt waist, and the skirt length.

Generally, the width of the skirt door does not necessarily have a linear relationship with the waist circumference; it can range between 16-38 cm or 20-27 cm. The length of the skirt waist can be calculated using a simple formula: Skirt Waist Length = Actual Waist Circumference + Ease (usually 4-8 cm) + A Skirt Door Width. As for the skirt length, Mamian skirts generally look better when touching the ground. Therefore, it can be determined based on height, combined with the proportions of the upper and lower body.

It's important to note that if the waist of the Mamian skirt is too large, it can cover some of the pleats, and if too small, it may lead to accidental exposure. An inaccurate hip size can also affect the overall appearance of the Mamian skirt. Therefore, compared to choosing from a size chart, opting for a customized Mamian skirt is a safer choice.

Step 2: Pleats

After determining the basic size, the design of the pleats will further affect the appearance of the Mamian skirt. Common Mamian skirts usually have five or seven pairs of pleats; if the hip width is larger, you might choose seven pairs.

For most people, the general advice on the number of pleats is about four to five pairs. If you are concerned about bulging pleats, you can appropriately increase the number of pleats. Additionally, Mamian skirts come in parallel and trapezoidal pleats. Parallel pleats create an "H" shaped visual effect, while trapezoidal pleats give the skirt a looser hem.

Step 3: Material

The materials used for Mamian skirts can vary: chiffon, tulle, satin, synthetic, etc. Also, the length of the material used affects the circumference of the hem. The width of the fabric used for the skirt determines the size of the hem. This involves two concepts: "Bai" and "Ding."

"Bai" refers to the total circumference of the skirt when fully expanded, and "Ding" refers to the length of a repeating pattern segment. A typical Ding length is 1.2-1.5 meters, meaning a 4.5-meter skirt hem is three Ding. Additionally, there are skirts with a 6-meter hem, which equate to four Ding. These are the most common skirt hem lengths.

Step 4: Craftsmanship

Apart from the overall effect, different craftsmanship techniques on the skirt can subtly change the garment's character. One technique is embroidery. Embroidered patterns on the skirt surface are common. Mamian skirts in Qing Dynasty style often emphasize dense and intricate embroidery on the skirt gate. Another technique is imitation Zhuanghua. "Zhuanghua" itself is one of the most complex weaving techniques in Nanjing Yunjin brocade. Imitation Zhuanghua Mamian skirts have rich patterns and varied colors. A third technique is imitation Zijin. As the name suggests, "Zijin" involves weaving patterns with golden threads. Compared to imitation Zhuanghua, the colors in imitation Zijin are relatively simple. Depending on the type of gold thread, there are flat gold, round gold, and wrapped gold.

Flat gold is made by cutting gold foil glued onto paper into strips about 0.5 mm wide, and round gold involves wrapping flat gold thread around cotton or silk threads. Wrapped gold, also known as filled gold or soft gold, is mainly made by winding nylon or smooth polyester threads around metal sheets. Flat gold is the most common and creates many reflective surfaces on the fabric, giving the pattern a lustrous appearance. However, flat gold thread can easily flip, which should be noted as a normal phenomenon, not a defect. Compared to flat gold, round gold is less likely to flip and has a higher gloss, presenting a misty grainy texture. Wrapped gold has longer color retention and better gloss.

May be you will notice that we mentioned "imitation" Zhuanghua and "imitation" Zijin. Why imitation? Because Zhuanghua and Zijin, as precious traditional Chinese handcrafts, are difficult to replicate finely by machines in a short time, so the Mamian skirts available in the market are usually imitation Zhuanghua and imitation Zijin.

Step 5: Skirt Lan

Finally, let's talk about the Lan. Here, refer to the horizontal patterns on the hem of the Mamian skirt. Generally, the Lan of a Mamian skirt are divided into knee Lan and bottom Lan. As the names suggest, knee Lan are the patterns near the knee area of the skirt, while bottom Lan are the patterns near the feet. When choosing skirt Lan, you can select based on your aesthetic preferences.

2 - Pairing

Today, the most common and classic item to pair with a Mamian skirt is undoubtedly the airplane sleeve top. The playful name airplane sleeve comes from the shape of the sleeve which tapers from the shoulder to the wrist, resembling the wingspan of an airplane when laid flat. In reality, it generally refers to a Song dynasty style short blouse.

A key reason to choose airplane sleeves to pair with a Mamian skirt is that their cross collar design adds a touch of boldness to the overall look. On the other hand, the narrower cuffs avoid bulkiness and do not hinder daily activities, making the appearance look more streamlined. However, for those with a smaller frame, the cross collar design might lead to exposure issues. In such cases, one can opt for a Song dynasty style camisole top as an underlayer.

In fact, apart from airplane sleeves, many creative pairings can be seen in everyday life. For instance, shirts, sweatshirts, or mandarin collar tops can all highlight different aesthetics of the Mamian skirt. Of course, as the weather turns cooler, one might choose round-neck diagonal jackets, Song dynasty style long blouses, or wool coats for pairing. From the above discussion, we can see that selecting a Mamian skirt involves many considerations and nuances. When actually choosing, we must consider multiple factors, including color and suitable occasions.

Since everyone's aesthetics and needs differ, the most important thing is to choose a Mamian skirt that makes you feel confident and comfortable. Whether paired with high heels, flats, leather shoes, or sneakers, a Mamian skirt can showcase one's elegance and charm. I hope this explanation helps you find a satisfying Mamian skirt and unleash your unique style. I sincerely wish everyone the best in exploring more possibilities with your choice and pairing of Mamian skirts!