NEWHANFU

In the ancient costume drama No Worries Ferry, Zuer Song's Tang Dynasty-style bun appears simple yet elegant. The hair accessories on her temples, not overly exaggerated, perfectly complement her facial features. So, what exactly are these hair accessories called? Well, they are decorative hair ornaments. Initially, combs, Bi (篦), and Huadian (花钿) were worn on the temples, and later, specialized accessories like Lianshu (帘梳) and Yanbin (掩鬓) emerged. This way of wearing them helps fill the decorative gaps in the bun, adding layers and visually elevating the crown of the head while enhancing facial contours. Let's start with combs. This comb - wearing method has a long history, dating back to the Han and Jin Dynasties as decorative items, categorized into wide - toothed combs and fine - toothed Bi. It reached its peak of popularity during the Tang and Song Dynasties. In the mid - to - late Tang Dynasty, with the improvement of living conditions, women became more inclined to adorn themselves. They would style elaborate, tall buns and wear various hair accessories. Combs, like jade pendants, were symbols of social status. The higher one's status, the more exquisite and luxurious the combs were. Ancient combs, as hair…...

Have we been using blankets wrong all these years? In cdramas, the blankets we commonly see are rectangular, similar to what we use today. However, in the TV series Guo Se Fang Hua, Yang Zi's blanket with a unique cut - out design is quite impressive. When pulled up, it snugly covers the shoulders, providing a sense of security. This kind of blanket dates back to the Warring States period, making it a 'classic design'. In contrast, traditional rectangular quilts, though warm, often expose the shoulders because of their straight edges. During seasonal changes and cold winters, shoulders are vulnerable to cold drafts. The ancient concave - backed blanket has an ingenious design. Its tailored cut - out ensures the shoulders are well - covered, offering both comfort and excellent insulation. It's astonishing that this practical design, now seen as innovative, was adopted by our ancestors over two thousand years ago during the Eastern Zhou dynasty. Auspicious Embroidery The ancients loved embroidering auspicious patterns on blankets. The Warring States blanket used ancient lock - stitch embroidery with paired dragon and phoenix motifs in deep blue, emerald blue, red - brown, vermilion, and yellow threads. This is similar to the pattern…...

It's unclear when it started, but almost all heroines and heroes in ancient - costume dramas now sport high ponytails, and the 'armor battle - damaged makeup' trend has also become popular. Netizens point out that high ponytails can actually hit the face during martial arts practice, which is quite painful. The mass replication of high ponytails and battle - damaged makeup not only risks causing visual fatigue but also likely puts pressure on makeup artists and stylists to create unique variations. Let's revisit the costume drama styles of 50 years ago. The most classic is arguably the image from A Touch of Zen. In 1970, actress Xu Feng starred in A Touch of Zen, which catapulted her to fame and established her cold yet glamorous 'heroine' persona. Her character design featured a high bun, often paired with a headscarf or hat. Over her 15 - year screen career, she appeared in about 50 films, all as a heroine. This sleek attire and hairstyle conveyed an independent, self - reliant, and powerful image. Looking at other classic films, heroines rarely wore ponytails. Even with updos or half - updos adorned with accessories, the styling showcased distinct personalities while still emphasizing…...

The beauty of gardenias and jasmines intertwined is truly unforgettable. In the previous feature, we briefly introduced Anna May Wong. Those familiar with Chinese - American actors in Hollywood surely know this name. Even if not, you've probably seen her iconic photos. With big bright eyes, classic willow - leaf eyebrows, high cheekbones, and a fringe, dressed in a cheongsam, she was a well - known Eastern face in early 20th - century Western society. Her hairstyle, makeup, and clothing style were emulated by countless Western girls. She was also the first Chinese actress to bring the cheongsam image to Hollywood. Let's explore her story and the beauty of the cheongsam she presented. Anna May Wong was born in Los Angeles, US, with her ancestral home in Taishan, Guangdong. Her family was third - generation immigrants. Her grandfather was among the earliest Chinese laborers who went to California to pan for gold. Her father, Huang Shanxing, held traditional ideas, favoring sons over daughters and longing to return to his roots. He returned to Guangdong, got married and had children there, then came back to the US and married Anna May Wong's mother. Before her, there was an elder sister, and…...

It's time for another session of sharing cheongsam details. In previous issues, we've talked about the types of handmade frog buttons on cheongsams, the collar and sleeve styles, and the exquisite front - placket patterns. Today, I'd like to discuss the slits, which play a crucial role in the overall design of cheongsams. Don't underestimate this small detail. A tiny slit can present a variety of charming female moments. A smaller slit results in smaller steps, making the posture and gait automatically slow and elegant. A larger slit offers a stronger sense of fluidity, and the faintly visible legs bring out the charming rhythm of the cheongsam. The slits in cheongsams are like opening the door to the sensuality of Chinese clothing. However, this sensuality is not the straightforward Western - style one. It is based on Chinese female culture and the generally reserved and implicit nature of Eastern women. Through a small opening, it slowly releases the rhythm and charm of female beauty. Next, let's talk about the common types of cheongsam slits, as well as their respective advantages and characteristics. Before that, here's a little knowledge about slits. In the early Republic of China, cheongsam slits were actually…...

In the historical drama 'Hua Jian Ling,' Ju Jingyi's red and blue dress, adorned with petal - like decorations, left a deep impression. Did such clothing actually exist? Let's start with the conclusion. This triangular decorative piece can be referred to as 'Gui' or 'Chui Shao,' named for its resemblance to a jade tablet. Clothing decorated with Gui is broadly called 'Gui Yi,' a type of ceremonial attire. The earliest documented record of 'Gui Yi' appears in Song Yu's 'Ode to the Goddess': 'She shakes her embroidered robe and dons the Gui attire,' which sounds quite romantic. This might be the closest traditional garment to what one would imagine as celestial attire. Its exact structure remains unclear, but its general form can be inferred from paintings. First, let's explore what 'Gui' is. Descriptions of Gui Yi mention 'the hanging part is wide at the top and narrow at the bottom,' resembling an inverted triangle. As the name suggests, Gui Yi involves attaching 'Gui' decorations to clothing. However, the specifics of Gui Yi remain vague. It has been said to be ceremonial attire for noblewomen and frequently appears in paintings of celestial beings (e.g., Song Yu's 'Ode to the Goddess'). But…...

Finally, a historical drama recreates the coming - of - age rite. In When the Wild Geese Return, there's a scene where Zhuang Hanyan, played by Chen Duling, undergoes the Ji Li (coming - of - age ceremony for women). Netizens exclaimed, 'So this is the touching moment!' Nowadays, most children are considered adults once they reach a certain age, without a formal 'coming - of - age ceremony'. But in ancient China, one couldn't be truly 'adult' without understanding rites and undergoing the Guan Li (capping ceremony for men) for males or the Ji Li for females. Details of Rites Men usually had the Guan Li at 20, and women the Ji Li at 15. Also called 'Jia Ji' or 'Shangtou Li', the Ji Li involved parents or elders tying up the girl's hair and inserting a hairpin, signifying her adulthood and eligibility for marriage. As the saying goes, 'When a woman is betrothed, she undergoes the Ji Li and is given a courtesy name.' The main adornments in these rites were hair - tying and adding a crown or hairpin. Before adulthood, children wore their hair loose. The Guan Li for men had three stages, corresponding to different…...

Recently, I've been reading A Treasury of Cheongsams Worn by Chinese Aristocratic Families written by Song Luxia and Xu Jingcan. This book is set against the backdrop of those Chinese aristocratic families that once shone brightly and endured on the historical and political stage. The cheongsam, as the central element throughout this backdrop, is like a cultural micro - cosmet of China's upper class. Through its owners, it reveals the clothing culture, aesthetic trends, humanistic features, and craftsmanship of the last century. The book showcases 90 old cheongsams worn by famous ladies from Chinese aristocratic families. As the authors said, "They are a rare, non - renewable, and endangered collection of specimens of Shanghai - style old cheongsams." These cheongsams represent the highest level of Shanghai - style cheongsams in the last century. The two authors and many colleagues spent a great deal of effort collecting and displaying these cheongsams. It's not just about reviewing and presenting the appearance of national clothing culture but also a challenging task of racing against history and time to rescue more buried, forgotten, and neglected clothing cultural treasures. So, today, let's follow the context and characters in the book to explore the beauty of…...

This is a rather special share today. Recently, at the Guardian Art Center in Beijing, there was an exceptionally rare and once - in - a - decade exhibition of traditional Chinese attire—the Qing Dynasty Court Embroidery Exhibition. The exhibition traces the timeline from the early to the late Qing Dynasty, focusing primarily on the royal attire of the Qing court. Through the passage of a thousand years and the morning mist of history, we witness the unparalleled heights achieved in fabric, color, patterns, craftsmanship, and aesthetic levels of royal garments. At the same time, we can admire the brilliance and splendor of the ancient silk industry and traditional plant dyeing techniques throughout the Qing Dynasty. The Qing rulers placed great emphasis on using colors and patterns to establish the order and rituals of the dynasty. Thus, different colors carry distinct cultural connotations, and various printing techniques conceal philosophical and ritualistic meanings unknown to us. Today, let us follow my footsteps to appreciate the beauty of Qing Dynasty attire colors. Sacrifices were the most significant duty of the ancient emperors—a religious ceremony to express reverence and gratitude to the heavens and earth, embodying the ancients' worship and respect for natural…...

In the ancient - costume drama Yan Hui Shi (雁回时), when Zhuang Hanyan took out a fire - arm, I bet many people's hearts skipped a beat. Netizens wondered, "Where did Yanzi get this fire - arm? Did she borrow it from Fan Xian and Fan Ruoruo?" Actually, fire - arms have appeared in other TV shows like The Longest Day in Chang'an 2 and The Ninth Purple. Let's start with the conclusion: Our ancient ancestors were not only kind - hearted but also very cool. Fire - arms were first created in the Yuan Dynasty in China, evolved from the fire - lance of the Southern Song Dynasty. They were the world's earliest tubular metal shooting firearms. Yes, by the Ming Dynasty, China had already entered the age of firearms. At this time, you could shout, "My lord, the times have changed!" During the Yuan Dynasty, the technology of firearm casting had reached a high level. Metal barrels, usually made of bronze or iron, could be produced for firearms. Before Zhu Yuanzhang established the Ming Dynasty, fire - arms were already the main weapon in production. After the founding of the Ming Dynasty, the production of fire - arms…...